1996 Grand Cherokee A/C - JeepForum.com
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post #1 of 17 Old 09-20-2019, 04:52 AM Thread Starter
Wayne O
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1996 Grand Cherokee A/C

My A/C stopped running about year ago just getting around to fixing it found no Freon so I filled it with AC Pro which has a leak sealer in it. That seems to have worked in that the pressure is holding at 45. However my clutch is cycling quickly. When I by-passed the low side switch it will spin continuously no problem. I replace both High and low pressure switches but that was no help.I do not know what to do next any help would be appreciated. Thanks

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post #2 of 17 Old 09-20-2019, 08:34 AM
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it is designed to cycle, the pressures high and low will help BUT ideally the charge amt is measured.*
Short cycling suggests still low... watch high side as you add.

For others reading along AVOID using refrigerant with sealant, refrigerant with a dye tracer OK. .

*The R-134a system charge capacity is 0.8 kg (1.75 lbs.).

FYI: TMI, you dont use FREON... its refrigerant R134a ...keeping you informed.
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When I see the price of OEM I think aftermarket.
When I see the quality of aftermarket I think OEM.
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post #3 of 17 Old 09-20-2019, 10:47 AM Thread Starter
Wayne O
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I used 134a I do not know how much of the can went in but I stopped when Gage read 45lbs of pressure any other tidbits would be helpful. Since I already used the AC Pro with sealant what would my next step be?
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post #4 of 17 Old 09-20-2019, 11:16 AM
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As far as the sealant - its done lets press on.
ideally pressures high and low. and the Ambient temp when you took pressures.


IDK - what is the amount in the charge kit you used? 10oz 120z ?
How is it cooling?
What is fast cycling? on off like a turn signal - a count of 30 Mississippi?

When I see the price of OEM I think aftermarket.
When I see the quality of aftermarket I think OEM.
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post #5 of 17 Old 09-21-2019, 12:15 AM
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Unless you're well below 70 degrees Fahrenheit it should stay on continuously, it's designed to cut off when it dips down to around 25 psi so I can build up pressure again. I would just keep adding until it stays on and then let it be. The problem with these cans is that you're also adding air to the system which could make it run erratically.
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post #6 of 17 Old 09-21-2019, 11:33 AM
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The problem with these cans is that you're also adding air to the system which could make it run erratically.
X2! If the system was completely empty it needs to evacuated first before putting in the Freon. Those (ac pro) cans are for adding to top off the system not fill it.
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post #7 of 17 Old 09-21-2019, 01:25 PM
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Also, I don't think anyone mentioned it, but you need to measure the pressure while the compressor is running. If the compressor is running it will suck down the low side and your pressure will drop. If it drops too low, then it will trigger a pressure switch and shut off the compressor.

If it's cycling very fast, my best guess would be that you added the refrigerant until it read 45 and thought it was good to go, but the system wasn't running and so it's still way too low.

It's best to evac the system first and pull vacuum to remove moisture before filling, but if you can't do that, then you've gotta make sure the pressures you're measuring are the proper readings for what you are needing.

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post #8 of 17 Old 09-22-2019, 05:46 AM Thread Starter
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It is a 20 oz can but I only used about half of it. It cycle about every 7 seconds.
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post #9 of 17 Old 09-22-2019, 06:06 AM Thread Starter
Wayne O
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S A. I was afraid I would over fill. At one point I had the Gage on the can reading 55 which was in the yellow on the can at 60+ it would be overfilled by the can Gage I do not have a pressure Gage to hook up to both high and low side or a vac pump. I stopped at a repair shop and they wanted $110 just to hook up the Gage and vac system + any parts they thought might be causing the problem guesstimated it could go as high a $700. This is a 1996 Grand Cherokee so there is a point of no return vs value of the Jeep.I guess I could check Amazon for a Gage have no idea what they run, but it seems like a waste for a one time use.I may sound like a cheap skate but I can fix most things myself just need right tools. Would you suggest I just keep adding the A/C pro to see if it stays on even when it reads past 60 lbs?
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post #10 of 17 Old 09-22-2019, 10:08 AM
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It sounds like you are overfilled. If the pressure won't drop below 45 or more and its clicking on and off it has too much. That's why you should only add a few seconds at a time and watch the needle on the can. Technically its against the law, but If you let some out, use caution. This stuff can give you frostbite and don't breathe it in..

If you're not in a hurry, just remove your shrader caps and wait until enough seeps out and the system begins working correctly, then replace caps decently tight, but be carefully not to strip em.
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post #11 of 17 Old 09-22-2019, 11:02 AM
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Cycling every 7 seconds at idle - how is the cooling? poor, adequate, hang meat cold?


OK you are a DIYer type, and with estimates 110$ to maybe 700$ I do not blame you...

Maybe buy a set of AC gauges, arguable not the quality of professional gauges. BUT you will get by and learn.

Second thing I want to mention - AC evacuation pumps can be rented - ask at yur local auto stores...

Looking pretty reasonable to DIY ? agreee

When I see the price of OEM I think aftermarket.
When I see the quality of aftermarket I think OEM.
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post #12 of 17 Old 09-23-2019, 04:36 AM Thread Starter
Wayne O
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Thanks I will search for some A/C gauges and check around to rent an evacuation pump. When I have done that do I just add a new can of R-134a or am I missing something?
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post #13 of 17 Old 09-23-2019, 06:16 AM
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DIY and learning great.

first answer questions....
"Cycling every 7 seconds at idle - how is the cooling? poor, adequate, hang meat cold?"

get gauges keep both valves closed!
post pressures at idle along with ambient temp.

When I see the price of OEM I think aftermarket.
When I see the quality of aftermarket I think OEM.
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post #14 of 17 Old 09-23-2019, 02:59 PM Thread Starter
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It cycles every 7 seconds at idle or when I rev it up it does not cool at all. When I by passed the low side cut off the clutch would run and start to cool down the low pressure recharge line but no apparent cooling on the high side and still blowing ambient air out vents. I took the by pass wire off as the condenser was getting very warm/hot.
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post #15 of 17 Old 09-24-2019, 03:08 PM Thread Starter
Wayne O
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Update

Quote:
Originally Posted by Wayne O View Post
It cycles every 7 seconds at idle or when I rev it up it does not cool at all. When I by passed the low side cut off the clutch would run and start to cool down the low pressure recharge line but no apparent cooling on the high side and still blowing ambient air out vents. I took the by pass wire off as the condenser was getting very warm/hot.
One further note the pressure goes from a high of 45 to a low of 25-28 when it recycles. This is from reading on the A/C pro can. Have not gotten the AC pressure gages yet. Or the evacuator pump. Work has slowed me down-darn.
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