12 Things You Can Do When Your ZJ Stalls - Page 29 - JeepForum.com
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post #421 of 449 Old 03-19-2015, 09:14 PM
1BADT
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Hey guy.. I've done all 12. Every sensor but 02 ,3 ecm's ,throttle body,cleaned all grounds,replaced ckp and coil connectors,new coil,new Cam Position Sensor,runs one day not the next. Run then stalls,runs won't restart.new plugs. Wires cap n rotor only 2 years old.I'm at my wits end.. help

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post #422 of 449 Old 03-19-2015, 09:25 PM Thread Starter
ZeeJay1997
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 1BADT View Post
runs one day not the next. Run then stalls,runs won't restart.
has the problem changed at all since you've been working on it?
is it random, hot stall, cold stall? when does it do it?
what do the instruments do when the stall occurs?
have you unplugged the o2 sensor to see if it goes away?


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post #423 of 449 Old 04-30-2015, 06:20 PM Thread Starter
ZeeJay1997
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okay, i finally conceded and move grounds to #1. maybe someone will read it now.


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post #424 of 449 Old 05-02-2015, 08:11 AM
coralman
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Info on projects and repairs categorized by system

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Originally Posted by HighLonesome
lol...if life is as a simple as a 5.9 making you happy, I'd say go ahead and buy it on impulse. ZJs are the way of Zen. Wax on, wax off
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post #425 of 449 Old 06-23-2015, 09:16 AM
2000wj6v40
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Simply Said... Outstanding write up!

Thanks
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post #426 of 449 Old 09-02-2015, 09:55 PM
DPServices
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Stalling problem caused by bad cell in old battery

Didn't know I had a bad cell in battery. It was still putting out enough juice to start the engine, but barely enough. Engine would start, then immediately stall. It reminded me of trying to start the vehicle with jumper cables after the dome light was left on for several days - battery completely dead. The thing to do then is disconnect the battery for a half hour or so, then reconnect it to re-set the on board brain. Once re-set, the engine will idle & run fine.
So when I determined the battery had a bad cell, I replaced the battery. Stalling problem all gone.
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post #427 of 449 Old 11-18-2015, 07:16 AM
SSRx7
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Thanks for this thread. I'll be working on the Dirty Dozen this weekend. Hopefully will find the problem.
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post #428 of 449 Old 03-26-2016, 06:47 AM
pfarber
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Geat post. May have solved my stalling issue.

About a week ago my 97 w/187k started sputtering, would stall when put into gear and general not running smoothly. Though it was time for a new PCM. Most post referenced years old pricing of $100. Nope. Reman is $300, ebay about $100.

First thing I did was put a vacuum gauge on the intake. SOLID 17in vacuum. So that assured me that nothing internal was the issue. While my engine does sound like a diesel at idle (most likely piston skirt issues) it idles fine and I still get 20MPG on the highway, 16 local.
So I looked over the dist/wires/plug. One dist cap screw was lose. Tightened, still stalling.
Cleaned IAC, still stalling.
Did the PCM connector wiggle test, did not stall! So I figured the PCM may not be the immediate issue.

Cleaned the 3 grounds (at the ign coil stud, the battery/fender ground and by the dipstick).

Been running 2 days no issues. When started, putting into gear does not stall.

Thanks for this post!
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post #429 of 449 Old 03-26-2016, 08:52 AM Thread Starter
ZeeJay1997
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Hopefully the grounds were the issue. Just remember that the PCM continues to adapt to the vehicle for days after the battery power is disconnected/reconnected. I had one that was fine unless it had three warm-up / cool-down cycles. So as an interim measure while I was hunting a PCM my routine was to disconnect the battery cable every three days.


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post #430 of 449 Old 05-16-2016, 09:25 PM
CreepersJeep
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Thanks for this thread. My wife got our first Jeep Grand Cherokee in October; a 1997 limited v8. with 163k miles on it. Last Monday it stalled at a highway intersection, and I've been working my way through this list after buying a new battery and distributor cap. I started with the IAC valve because I pulled the piston off the old one while cleaning it and thought, "This probably shouldn't happen." The battery was a legit purchase too... aging and the Jeep has needed jumping a couple of times... corrosion on the posts, etc. I'm pretty sure the dist cap was a legit buy too, as when I was removing the ignition cables, two of the pins pulled right out the back.

Some things aren't quite jiving with this thread though... My camshaft position sensor in the distributor doesn't seem to match other photos in this thread or linked back images. Also, I can't seem to get to the crankshaft position sensor (I'm not even 100% sure I've located it on top of the bell housing.) This vehicle seems to have more sensors than any other I've worked on. Videos of removal of the CPS show an 'alternate' way of getting to it through a hole in the firewall behind an A/C duct on the driver's side. I've pulled the gearshift trim, the lower left portion of the dash, and the carpet... nothing where indicated in the videos, and my duct work doesn't look the same either. It does look as though the AWD selector lever has a panel I can unbolt and reach through. Does this sound plausible? Is there anything special I'd need to know about pulling this lever? Cables, springs, little bits of plastic that break easily?

Thanks in advance for any help.

P.S. additional symptoms for diagnostics
I haven't hooked up the code scanner nor battery since it wouldn't start after the initial work (IAC, battery, distributor cap)
Before she had it inspected, I cleared 4 codes. I don't remember the code numbers, but descriptions were: Random Multiple misfires. Misfire Cylinder 1, 5, and 8. I cleared them once, replaced the plugs, and added injector cleaner to the tank. It ran better for a while (she had complained of hesitation and 'coughing' on accelleration) When the same codes returned on the same 3 cylinders, I thought distributor cap. She drove the Jeep to Dallas and killed the battery making a lot of short trips while helping a friend with garage sale preparations. After they jumped it, the codes were gone. and didn't return before the stall which is where we are at now.

there are several other electrical issues. the LCD with the "miles to service reminder" has flickered constantly since we bought it. (thought it was a loose connection in the display) The power seats don't work except sporadically, and only in one direction. (thought it was the switches until I pulled a piece of trim off yesterday and saw a bunch of copper in that bundle... scraped or pinched off insulation, not melted.) Occasionally the fuel gauge drops instantly to E and stays there a few seconds and then returns to the current level. None of these have ever caused a stall or failure to restart.
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post #431 of 449 Old 05-30-2016, 03:41 PM
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Well, I got it running... for three days. After torquing around with the myriad of electrical components, I decided to check the fuel pump. Wrangling around the 1/4" PEX line to get past antisiphon measures, I finally got it siphoned after 4 hours of waiting for the 19 gallons of gas to drain. Ran great for about 3 days, then overheated. I Topped off the coolant with some water and it ran "okay"another three days. Then overheated again and blew a gasket... back to the drawing board. Can anyone direct me to a good post on a rebuild?

Youtube-Haynes-Chilton-forums=friends. Last time mechanic touched my car---> before I bought it.
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post #432 of 449 Old 05-30-2016, 09:27 PM Thread Starter
ZeeJay1997
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CreepersJeep View Post
Can anyone direct me to a good post on a rebuild?
Sorry i missed your first post. Been doing home ownership stuff for a while...

The differences you are seeing in your jeep are due to you having a v-8. This thread is keyed towards the 4.0.

I really don't have a good link to a v-8 rebuild. You'll have better luck finding one using the Google custom search on this webpage. Best of luck to you.


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post #433 of 449 Old 11-19-2016, 11:35 PM
stormblue
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extremely useful information in this thread ...
thanks for the effort
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post #434 of 449 Old 11-28-2016, 12:29 PM
Jazzy13309
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Terrific stuff. I am about to go through it on my 1994 Grand Cherokee 4.0, after a new Mopar Crank Sensor with a glued on ceral box spacer did no good for a crank but won't start situation. It started last week fine when I test drove it around the block, but won't do it again. Yet.

JJ
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post #435 of 449 Old 11-28-2016, 06:12 PM Thread Starter
ZeeJay1997
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jazzy13309 View Post
a new Mopar Crank Sensor with a glued on ceral box spacer
Mopar sensor should already have a spacer. The cardboard spacer is for reinstalling a used sensor.

EDIT: Never mind. I just read the other post. I know the spacer applies to a 97. Not sure about other years. And you don't glue the spacer on. Stick it on there with some light grease.


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