Yukon free spinning hubs - JeepForum.com
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post #1 of 24 Old 02-14-2016, 10:40 PM Thread Starter
Dake
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Yukon free spinning hubs

Anyone running them on their Dana 30? Or another kit?


Waiting on my Rough Country lift to sag!
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post #2 of 24 Old 02-14-2016, 11:11 PM
Richard_
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Seems kind of expensive , what is the advantage of locking hubs ?
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post #3 of 24 Old 02-14-2016, 11:13 PM
Steve707
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Originally Posted by Richard_ View Post
Seems kind of expensive , what is the advantage of locking hubs ?
If you do a solid shaft or permanently lock the cad, you can keep your hubs unlocked when not in use and the drive shaft won't spin.
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post #4 of 24 Old 02-15-2016, 06:05 AM
gotswap
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Maybe save bit of gas with them unlocked but that is a ton of scratch....I have pondered this as well but for that price couldn't you almost go to a d44 that already has lockout hubs?
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post #5 of 24 Old 02-15-2016, 09:19 AM
Reno72
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Doing the math any savings on gas would take years to make up the cost. If you're doing it because of vibration from a constant turning DS it would be easier to just fix the problem.

92 Rene, 4.5 RE lift, Currie ARB D44, super 8.8 ARB

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post #6 of 24 Old 02-15-2016, 11:56 AM
Drednot
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Yeah, I don't get the money spent to eliminate the CAD, and then big bux and mods to stop the driveshaft from spinning again...just to save a few pennies on gas?

91 YJ Sahara, 4.0L, AX-15/NP231, D30/[email protected]
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post #7 of 24 Old 02-15-2016, 04:31 PM
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I do not have the yukon lockouts, but I do have a set of vintage spicer lockouts. The yukon hubs are basically a slightly updated copy of the old spicer hubs.

Converting to lockouts is not just to keep the front driveshaft from spinning when you have a solid passenger shaft. It is also to get rid of the unit bearing hubs. Replacement unit bearing hubs are very expensive, where a set of inner and outer bearings and a seal are a fraction of the cost. Not only that, but you can disassemble the hub and bearings to clean/inspect, and then repack with fresh grease.

I did not buy a off the shelf kit, but instead made my own hub conversion using about 99% junkyard parts. In the end I am very happy with it. I now have solid shafts, bigger u-joints, serviceable wheel bearings, lockout hubs, and bigger brakes.

'93 YJ 4.6L stroker, AX-15, NP-231HD/SYE, 8.8in rear, OME 2.5 lift, home made front hub conversion, hydroboost. Warn M10000 winch.

'79 Cherokee Chief, 401 MPFI fuel injection, T-18/D-20 and hydroboost. Otherwise stock.
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post #8 of 24 Old 02-15-2016, 06:32 PM
Steve707
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cobra Jeep View Post
I do not have the yukon lockouts, but I do have a set of vintage spicer lockouts. The yukon hubs are basically a slightly updated copy of the old spicer hubs.

Converting to lockouts is not just to keep the front driveshaft from spinning when you have a solid passenger shaft. It is also to get rid of the unit bearing hubs. Replacement unit bearing hubs are very expensive, where a set of inner and outer bearings and a seal are a fraction of the cost. Not only that, but you can disassemble the hub and bearings to clean/inspect, and then repack with fresh grease.

I did not buy a off the shelf kit, but instead made my own hub conversion using about 99% junkyard parts. In the end I am very happy with it. I now have solid shafts, bigger u-joints, serviceable wheel bearings, lockout hubs, and bigger brakes.
Do you have a build thread for how you did it?
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post #9 of 24 Old 02-15-2016, 06:47 PM Thread Starter
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Yea id like to know what you used. That sounds more in my budget

Waiting on my Rough Country lift to sag!
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post #10 of 24 Old 02-15-2016, 08:17 PM
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Interesting.
I know I may be wrong but I thought the only lock outs available that would work with a 5 x 4 1/2 wheel pattern was either after market or Ford Bronco II.
The Bronco II have a much smaller stub shaft than the YJs.
I did run the Warn kit way back when, when I was still running my 30. It did work well and I really did not have any problems with it.
A couple of things to consider though.
The first one is parts. If you brake a lock out the only available one would have to come from Yukon.
The next one would be lubrication. Bear with me on this.
First off all with lockout hubs you are not spinning the U joints, so they are basically just sitting there.
I have to replace my u joints every couple of years (Dana 44) not because they are broke or wore out, but because the needle bearings are rusted.
The other one is the housing itself. Again nothing is turning in two wheel drive, I do change my gear lube every year. Every time there is rust in the housing and on the ring gear. I just clean it up, but I could see where if some one was to let it go it could lead to problems.

93 YJ SOA 2" springs front, XJ springs rear w/main leaf added, High pinon 9 inch rear detroit locker front Dana 44 ARB 4.56 Gears, 36 inch Irok tires too much to list.
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post #11 of 24 Old 02-15-2016, 11:03 PM
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Cobra Jeep
If you do not have a write up pictures would be nice.
What lock outs and spindles did you use?
What knuckles did you use?
Were you able to keep the 5 x 4 1/2 bolt pattern?

93 YJ SOA 2" springs front, XJ springs rear w/main leaf added, High pinon 9 inch rear detroit locker front Dana 44 ARB 4.56 Gears, 36 inch Irok tires too much to list.
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post #12 of 24 Old 02-16-2016, 06:18 AM
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the plot thickens
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post #13 of 24 Old 02-16-2016, 04:19 PM
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I thought I might get this reaction....lol
I do not have a writeup as of yet. I have been meaning to do one but I have been a little lazy about it. Plus I wanted to make sure everything was going to work together ok. So far about 4 months with zero issues. I need to take some time and try to make a writeup.

To answer a few questions:

I did not keep the 5 on 4.5 bolt pattern. Doing it the way I did it converted it to 5 on 5.5.
I am using standard dana 44 lockout hubs, so if one breaks, a replacement lockout will not be hard to find.
I am using a combination of jeep, ford, chevy, and dodge parts. It took quite a lot of research to do it.
When I do my writeup I will detail all the parts I used and what vehicles they came from. Now that I know there is interest, maybe that will get me motivated to finally post it up.

'93 YJ 4.6L stroker, AX-15, NP-231HD/SYE, 8.8in rear, OME 2.5 lift, home made front hub conversion, hydroboost. Warn M10000 winch.

'79 Cherokee Chief, 401 MPFI fuel injection, T-18/D-20 and hydroboost. Otherwise stock.
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post #14 of 24 Old 02-16-2016, 04:38 PM
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I'm still on the old Warn kit. Gas wasn't a consideration, was all off-road concerns. Besides the unit bearing 'fix' mentioned above, I like that pretty much anything can happen to the front half of the drive line on the trail and I can keep going.

'93 YJ, '02 GM 4.3V6, SOA, dual ARB's, 8.8+D30(WarnHubs), 4.88s, 35" Patagonia M/Ts, AX15, NP231+4:1+SYE+2LO, York OBA.
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post #15 of 24 Old 02-17-2016, 12:36 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cobra Jeep View Post
I thought I might get this reaction....lol
I do not have a writeup as of yet. I have been meaning to do one but I have been a little lazy about it. Plus I wanted to make sure everything was going to work together ok. So far about 4 months with zero issues. I need to take some time and try to make a writeup.

To answer a few questions:

I did not keep the 5 on 4.5 bolt pattern. Doing it the way I did it converted it to 5 on 5.5.
I am using standard dana 44 lockout hubs, so if one breaks, a replacement lockout will not be hard to find.
I am using a combination of jeep, ford, chevy, and dodge parts. It took quite a lot of research to do it.
When I do my writeup I will detail all the parts I used and what vehicles they came from. Now that I know there is interest, maybe that will get me motivated to finally post it up.
Just curious, are these on the same build with WJ knuckles? Really looking forward to your write up.
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