YJ front solid front axles - JeepForum.com
 
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post #1 of 14 Old 09-29-2009, 10:15 PM Thread Starter
JohnnyZJ
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YJ front solid front axles

looking at options to get rid of the two piece axle with the famous two piece front axles. i want to swap em out for some newer model XJ axles with the bigger joints. what do i have to do to make this happen? i've been told the inner axle seal needs to be changed out correct? does anyone know the part number?

i want to goto chromoly's here in the future, but they are costly, so i might have to wait till the new year..........

anyways, thanks all


07' JKUR rollin on 35s
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post #2 of 14 Old 09-29-2009, 10:28 PM
timatoe
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TJ and newer XJ shafts are the same just do a search. All you need is a block off plate, the shafts, and a Napa 11800 seal for the passenger side of the diff.

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post #3 of 14 Old 09-29-2009, 10:46 PM
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Before you make your decision, click the link in my profile. You can still use the D44 u-joints if you get shafts made for a 95.

Are you considering an Aussie up front? Maybe you might want to keep the vac system. When you upgrade the shafts with 1 piece, your front driveshaft (and in turn x-case) will be spinning at all times.

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post #4 of 14 Old 09-30-2009, 07:49 AM
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Originally Posted by Axl Jack View Post

Are you considering an Aussie up front? Maybe you might want to keep the vac system. When you upgrade the shafts with 1 piece, front driveshaft (and in turn x-case) will be spinning at all times.
what's wrong with that? So do TJ's and XJ's. I did this to mine a few years ago with no problems. The disco is a common fail. So is the posi-loc, which is the reason for the mod. You don't even need to make a block off plate. You can put the shift fork back on. It will ride over top the shaft, and you still get the 4x4 light.

The new axle seal goes on the side of the carrier. Remove your old shafts and carrier. You'll see the seal on the short side, if you need to, pop that seal out so you can see the lip it sits in. You'll need to make the same lip for the new seal on the other side. Go slow with a grinder and carbide to ensure you get a tight fit. The seal should go in with a few well placed hammer taps. Re-install your carrier, locker, and new shafts. You're done! One of the best, and cheapest mods I've done. My locker was a used lockrite from a d35.

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post #5 of 14 Old 09-30-2009, 08:38 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Axl Jack View Post
Before you make your decision, click the link in my profile. You can still use the D44 u-joints if you get shafts made for a 95.
That's what I did. I took apart the vac disconnect, and shimmed it over inside so it stays connected all the time. Then, I carry spare shafts for both sides, a spare collar for the disconnect, and a spare inner shaft. With the 2-piece passenger shaft, they fit in the parts box in the Jeep easier, and they are cheap! I got 2 complete 1995 D30 fronts for $150 each at the yard.

As for the high strength shafts, I'd rather keep the weak point in the shafts and joints. I can replace a shaft and wheel bearing assembly with 3 bolts. Replacing the ring and pinion is way worse, IMHO.

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post #6 of 14 Old 09-30-2009, 08:42 AM Thread Starter
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truth, what exactely are you having to grind? i don't have my jeep apart in front of me, having trouble picturing it, but it does sound very straight forward.......

axljack, i'm running ARBs front and rear. so the Vac does nothing but piss me off i want axles with bigger u jonts anyways so why bother with a posi loc system of some sort.....

pete, i broke the ujoint and it took out the ears on my shaft, as well as the ball joint. i can swap a shaft in 20 minutes too, but not balljoints...... ideally i'd like to run the big spicer joints and of course goto chromoly's

thanks for the responses guys, i'm on the hunt for TJ/XJ shafts......

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post #7 of 14 Old 09-30-2009, 09:29 AM
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Originally Posted by JohnnyZJ View Post
truth, what exactely are you having to grind? i don't have my jeep apart in front of me, having trouble picturing it, but it does sound very straight forward............
I have no idea what he's refering to. I've never seen anything about grinding anything in any write-up and I didn't grind anything when I did mine.

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post #8 of 14 Old 09-30-2009, 09:33 AM
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I used the same seal on the short side on the long side. I ground a lip into the housing for it to fit into. I'm not aware of a seal number that fits otherwise. I did this about 5 years ago. Somebody may have found a seal number that fits since then.

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post #9 of 14 Old 09-30-2009, 10:44 AM Thread Starter
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gotcha. timatoe, the napa seal 11800 works then right? just pop it in? that works for me. i have to change orings on my ARB anyways so i'll have the front end apart soon enough!

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post #10 of 14 Old 09-30-2009, 04:26 PM
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if i remember correct, i bought a complete kit from Randy's Ring and Pinion that included all of the seals needed for this mod
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post #11 of 14 Old 09-30-2009, 04:32 PM
Truth
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Buying a seal from a parts store is much less money. I spent around 200 total when I did this to mine. And that price included a locker.

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post #12 of 14 Old 09-30-2009, 05:19 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Truth View Post
I used the same seal on the short side on the long side. I ground a lip into the housing for it to fit into. I'm not aware of a seal number that fits otherwise. I did this about 5 years ago. Somebody may have found a seal number that fits since then.
Couldn't you have just used the seal that sits in the CAD? I mean, it's still half way down the tube but it worked fine when you had the vacuum system. Maybe of course if the axle shaft is just that much wider and won't fit.

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post #13 of 14 Old 09-30-2009, 05:32 PM
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Originally Posted by Ringwood View Post
Couldn't you have just used the seal that sits in the CAD? I mean, it's still half way down the tube but it worked fine when you had the vacuum system. Maybe of course if the axle shaft is just that much wider and won't fit.
Right. The seal won't fit there. Plus that part of the shaft isn't clean enough to have a seal ride on it and still hold lube.

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post #14 of 14 Old 09-30-2009, 10:10 PM
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Originally Posted by JohnnyZJ View Post
gotcha. timatoe, the napa seal 11800 works then right? just pop it in? that works for me. i have to change orings on my ARB anyways so i'll have the front end apart soon enough!
The 11800 worked for me, look on Stu Olson's site there's a couple of other numbers on there too.

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