WJ Knuckle Swap - Page 7 - JeepForum.com
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post #91 of 169 Old 04-17-2015, 02:48 PM
skyj
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I mentioned it before also that I use a Ford ranger pitman it's slightly shorter and close to flat it works great for my setup. Just another option! You just have to cut/file the keyway out of it so you can clock it to fit your steering box.


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YJ 5.2 magnum MPI, AX15, NP231 SYE, Dana 30 4.56 open/ 8.8 4.56 detriot locker. 1" shackles
2" BL, 4" stretch all on saggy waggy springs.
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post #92 of 169 Old 04-17-2015, 07:00 PM
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Originally Posted by Awesome View Post
Speaking of Wagoneers, I see you have a full-size Cherokee. Any chance you could check the Pitman to see if it would swap over?
Yes, the pitman arm will fit the YJ box. They are both the same basic style of saginaw steering box. The problem is the full size jeep pitman arm is 7 inches long. The YJ arm is about 5.5 inches long. So there is no way it would work.

A shackle reversal might possibly work, I never thought about that. I always hear that a SRS makes the jeep want to nose dive a lot more when braking. Not sure if I like that.

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post #93 of 169 Old 04-18-2015, 01:16 AM
Gausswave
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Originally Posted by Cobra Jeep View Post
A shackle reversal might possibly work, I never thought about that. I always hear that a SRS makes the jeep want to nose dive a lot more when braking. Not sure if I like that.
Your front axle folds back in stead of folding forward against the force. Yeah I can see how you would feel it. You'll also want to make sure your front drive line has enough compression then as well.

So if you were to test for this problem what would be the best way? Ratchet straps between the frame and axle? I don't think a simple axle lift would yield the same results. Then there the dynamics in the real world of spring warp and frame flex.

On a side note 65$ later I get my shims Monday!
Now I'm wondering if the smaller bearing is going to cause a problem. That explains why it didn't fit the knuckle the way I was expecting it to. Its mostly tight but not press fit like the bearing hub and original knuckle. It also brings up the question what is the JKS spacer cut for?

May be the larger bearing, 1/4" brake washers and longer bolts is a better way to go?
Or redrilling a WJ HUB? Would the spacer(s) be necessary then?
OR assuming all the WJ, hub, knuckle don't need spacers how hard would it be to press the wheel flange off and replace it with one from the YJ?

Last edited by Gausswave; 04-18-2015 at 01:20 AM. Reason: Idea added
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post #94 of 169 Old 04-20-2015, 12:31 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by skyj View Post
I mentioned it before also that I use a Ford ranger pitman it's slightly shorter and close to flat it works great for my setup. Just another option! You just have to cut/file the keyway out of it so you can clock it to fit your steering box.
That sounds like it'd be a good option except that it's shorter. We already lose an inch or so of turning radius with this mod, not sure how much more we would lose with a shorter Pitman.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Cobra Jeep View Post
Yes, the pitman arm will fit the YJ box. They are both the same basic style of saginaw steering box. The problem is the full size jeep pitman arm is 7 inches long. The YJ arm is about 5.5 inches long. So there is no way it would work.

A shackle reversal might possibly work, I never thought about that. I always hear that a SRS makes the jeep want to nose dive a lot more when braking. Not sure if I like that.
Okay, thanks. I hadn't thought about a nosedive issue before.

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Originally Posted by Gausswave View Post
So if you were to test for this problem what would be the best way? Ratchet straps between the frame and axle? I don't think a simple axle lift would yield the same results. Then there the dynamics in the real world of spring warp and frame flex.
May be the larger bearing, 1/4" brake washers and longer bolts is a better way to go?

Or redrilling a WJ HUB? Would the spacer(s) be necessary then?
OR assuming all the WJ, hub, knuckle don't need spacers how hard would it be to press the wheel flange off and replace it with one from the YJ?
I tested by jacking the axle up until it was on the bumpstop, and I never got any indication of problems. A ratchet strap may work better. I don't know.

Re-drilling a WJ hub would work. I would be leery about losing more metal on that flange though. It would get a lot weaker. The first guy that did this mod used a hybrid WJ/YJ hub. He made it himself and had to do some machining to get it to work. Then there is the cost involved... four hubs isn't going to be cheap.

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post #95 of 169 Old 04-20-2015, 01:58 AM
Gausswave
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Originally Posted by Awesome View Post
Re-drilling a WJ hub would work. I would be leery about losing more metal on that flange though. It would get a lot weaker. The first guy that did this mod used a hybrid WJ/YJ hub. He made it himself and had to do some machining to get it to work. Then there is the cost involved... four hubs isn't going to be cheap.
Who was that guy? Got a link? I read a lot of threads and I do recall seeing some one who did some machining. Luckily I do have the better part of a machine shop at my disposal. So machining hubs isn't a problem. I'm thinking of remaking the spacers though. The difference between the WJ and the YJ bearing is only .127mm or .005" so while it's some what snug it doesn't press fit properly even if it was welded in the knuckle there's still some play. The real question is does that play matter? Most of the time It will be pressed up to the top of the hole by the weight of the jeep and as long as the 3 bolts stay tight is should be ok.
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post #96 of 169 Old 04-21-2015, 05:07 AM
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Got my shims in tonight. Outside clearance is .120". Inside is now ~.110". Not perfect but well with in the useable range!
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post #97 of 169 Old 05-02-2015, 03:21 AM
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Been running with the new knuckles for a couple of days now. I do notice the loss of turning radius. Has any one modified the stops on the knuckle to allow for more turning radius? I would imagine on the WJ it's limited for the CV joint which the YJ doesn't use.
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post #98 of 169 Old 05-05-2015, 12:03 AM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by Gausswave View Post
Who was that guy? Got a link? I read a lot of threads and I do recall seeing some one who did some machining. Luckily I do have the better part of a machine shop at my disposal. So machining hubs isn't a problem. I'm thinking of remaking the spacers though. The difference between the WJ and the YJ bearing is only .127mm or .005" so while it's some what snug it doesn't press fit properly even if it was welded in the knuckle there's still some play. The real question is does that play matter? Most of the time It will be pressed up to the top of the hole by the weight of the jeep and as long as the 3 bolts stay tight is should be ok.
http://www.4x4wire.com/jeep/tech/bra...kles/index.htm

If there is any movement, over time you will wallow out the knuckle and end up with bigger issues. That's my opinion, anyway.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Gausswave View Post
Been running with the new knuckles for a couple of days now. I do notice the loss of turning radius. Has any one modified the stops on the knuckle to allow for more turning radius? I would imagine on the WJ it's limited for the CV joint which the YJ doesn't use.
You could grind down the stops if you really wanted to, but it won't make any difference. The limiting factor is the Pitman, and nobody seems to have a perfect answer to that problem yet.

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post #99 of 169 Old 05-17-2015, 02:59 PM
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I just finished up the wj swap, disc brake 8.8, soa on the gfs yj got all the brakes bleed The front calipers aren't completely releasing the wj nor the yj had this issue so am i missing something do i have to adjust the pedal rod or swap the master for the wj master.
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post #100 of 169 Old 05-18-2015, 12:05 PM
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Originally Posted by kensm715 View Post
I just finished up the wj swap, disc brake 8.8, soa on the gfs yj got all the brakes bleed The front calipers aren't completely releasing the wj nor the yj had this issue so am i missing something do i have to adjust the pedal rod or swap the master for the wj master.
I have the same setup. You can use all the stock components right up to the WJ Caliper.
What year is the YJ? You may have a caliper alignment issue.
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post #101 of 169 Old 05-20-2015, 03:05 PM
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Good info all throughout this thread.




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post #102 of 169 Old 05-22-2015, 12:45 AM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by kensm715 View Post
I just finished up the wj swap, disc brake 8.8, soa on the gfs yj got all the brakes bleed The front calipers aren't completely releasing the wj nor the yj had this issue so am i missing something do i have to adjust the pedal rod or swap the master for the wj master.
If your Jeep really is a 1967, that's probably your issue.

Jack up one wheel, stomp on the pedal and lock the calipers. Then open the bleeder on the caliper for a second, and then try to spin the wheel. If the wheel spins freely after you release the pressure, then your hoses are bad.

Also, double check your spacing!

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post #103 of 169 Old 05-23-2015, 07:04 AM
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haha everyones a comedian. I dont know why i didnt think of that guess i was just tired lol after i posted this i thought about it and the calipers were the problem replaced em the teeves no more issue thanks everyone

Quote:
Originally Posted by Awesome View Post
If your Jeep really is a 1967, that's probably your issue.

Jack up one wheel, stomp on the pedal and lock the calipers. Then open the bleeder on the caliper for a second, and then try to spin the wheel. If the wheel spins freely after you release the pressure, then your hoses are bad.

Also, double check your spacing!
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post #104 of 169 Old 05-30-2015, 12:36 AM Thread Starter
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It's funny that you posted that, because my passenger side caliper locks up under heavy braking as well. In fact, I almost caught the Jeep on fire on Tuesday driving to my final at school. I must have dragged that brake for nearly ten miles on the highway.

I am not convinced it's the hose. I think I have a bad caliper.

Also, speaking of Pitman arms, I don't know if it will work, but the Astro Van Pitman arm is flat. I know the Astro steering box is a direct bolt-in upgrade (not sure why) and the Pitman on it doesn't have a drop. It might solve contact issues, but I don't know if the Pitman will work on the stock Jeep steering box.

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post #105 of 169 Old 10-20-2016, 11:54 PM
MajorCarnage
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Does anyone make a kit to replace the unit bearings with earlier style, and/or replace the axle disconnect system with a solid passenger side axle shaft and manual hubs??
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