WJ Knuckle Swap - Page 3 - JeepForum.com
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post #31 of 169 Old 03-02-2015, 10:28 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cobra Jeep View Post
What you have there is 1 teeves and 1 akebono. The teeves is the one on the left, and the akebono is the one on the right. The teeves are the original WJ calipers and is what jeep says caused the warping issue.
The akebono may appear to be a slimmer profile, but the teeves clear wheels better. The teeves stick up a bit on the back (hose connection) side, but are slimmer on the outside (wheel side). The akebonos are about the same all the way across, and the outer side is the part that hits wheels.
I forgot to take pics of mine, I will try to remember.
I thank you, Cobra Jeep. This whole time I thought that the tiny single-piston calipers that look like they could clear 13" wheels were the Teeves calipers.

Now that I know that the Teeves calipers are also dual-piston, I can breathe easier. At least I have a good fallback if the Akebonos don't fit. I am still going to bolt up the driver's side Akebono and see if it will fit in my wheel. I am sure it won't, so I am glad I accidentally brought home a pair of Teeves.

I can't imagine a Wrangler that weighs half of a Grand Cherokee would warp rotors meant for said Grand Cherokee.


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post #32 of 169 Old 03-03-2015, 01:52 PM
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Your probably going to have to notch your frame like mine or your draglink will rub. I also run the ruff stuff heim steering.

I dont run WJ knuckles but the BTF crossover bracket and I had major rubbage at full stuff. Also what pitman arm you running? If I remember right your not SOA and dont have much lift right? If your close to stock height a drop arm wont do you much good cause it will put your draglink down pretty low. I have about 3" of lift and a flat pitman arm and my draglink is perfectly parallel with the ground.
Just some food for thought not sure if you have covered any of this or compensated for any of this yet. Just wanted to give you a heads up.

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YJ 5.2 magnum MPI, AX15, NP231 SYE, Dana 30 4.56 open/ 8.8 4.56 detriot locker. 1" shackles
2" BL, 4" stretch all on saggy waggy springs.
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post #33 of 169 Old 03-05-2015, 02:26 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by skyj View Post
Your probably going to have to notch your frame like mine or your draglink will rub. I also run the ruff stuff heim steering.

I dont run WJ knuckles but the BTF crossover bracket and I had major rubbage at full stuff. Also what pitman arm you running? If I remember right your not SOA and dont have much lift right? If your close to stock height a drop arm wont do you much good cause it will put your draglink down pretty low. I have about 3" of lift and a flat pitman arm and my draglink is perfectly parallel with the ground.
Just some food for thought not sure if you have covered any of this or compensated for any of this yet. Just wanted to give you a heads up.
Wow. I am definitely not going to do that. If I have to, I'll run the drag link under the knuckle. I'm also not using heims, so my drag link would sit a little lower than yours.

I have about 3.5" of lift, and maybe 2" of uptravel on the front suspension. I have a drop pitman. No idea how much drop.

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post #34 of 169 Old 03-15-2015, 09:57 PM Thread Starter
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I have had the spacers welded to the knuckles, and should be getting them reamed for the new tie rod ends tomorrow. I have removed the knuckle and balljoints from the driver side of the axle, and want to continue with my writeup.

However, I cannot get the new ball joints pressed in. I had a really hard time pressing them out, and now I can't get them to go in straight. Anyone have any tips? Once I get this side done and test fitted, I am going to do a detailed writeup like what I did for the junkyard vehicle. I'll have pictures too.

I also discovered that my shackles on the driver side are completely broken through. My axle has been held on by the passenger side shackles for who knows how long. I'll be making new shackles as soon as I get the knuckles done.

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post #35 of 169 Old 03-16-2015, 04:38 AM
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Sorry for by ignorance but, is this swap/upgrade any good for DD with 80% on road driving?

'95 YJ, 4.0,(4:10)RE 2.5"+5/8 Booms,1"BL & 33"
'13 WK2 TrailHawk(V6)
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post #36 of 169 Old 03-16-2015, 09:06 AM Thread Starter
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Sorry for by ignorance but, is this swap/upgrade any good for DD with 80% on road driving?
Only if you like wrenching and are running bigger tires than stock. Otherwise it'd be a hassle for not much benefit. I'm doing it because I'm rebuilding my axle anyway, and I'm tires of wearing out my tie rod ends every 30,000 miles. The bigger brakes are just a side benefit for me.

Speaking of which, I'll have some almost-new brakes and rotors for sale when I am done. I put new brakes on the Jeep recently. Less than a thousand miles on them.

EDIT: To directly answer your question: yes. My Jeep is 99% on-road and my DD. I haven't really been off-roading in two years.
Once this project is done, I expect I will be wheeling it quite a bit more.

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post #37 of 169 Old 03-17-2015, 12:32 PM
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Originally Posted by Awesome View Post
Only if you like wrenching and are running bigger tires than stock. Otherwise it'd be a hassle for not much benefit. I'm doing it because I'm rebuilding my axle anyway, and I'm tires of wearing out my tie rod ends every 30,000 miles. The bigger brakes are just a side benefit for me.

Speaking of which, I'll have some almost-new brakes and rotors for sale when I am done. I put new brakes on the Jeep recently. Less than a thousand miles on them.

EDIT: To directly answer your question: yes. My Jeep is 99% on-road and my DD. I haven't really been off-roading in two years.
Once this project is done, I expect I will be wheeling it quite a bit more.
Yes I run 33" maxxis bighorn with 4:10 gear ratio. Still anyone thinks that this mod could be beneficial for my setup?

'95 YJ, 4.0,(4:10)RE 2.5"+5/8 Booms,1"BL & 33"
'13 WK2 TrailHawk(V6)
'04 WJ,4.7HO,Overland,(SOLD)
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post #38 of 169 Old 03-19-2015, 10:04 AM Thread Starter
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Yes I run 33" maxxis bighorn with 4:10 gear ratio. Still anyone thinks that this mod could be beneficial for my setup?
Yes, but again, it depends entirely on if you have the time and money to put into it. I do, but only because I am rebuilding the front axle anyway.

KNUCKLE REMOVAL:

Alright, let's get that axle nut off. First, remove your wheels. The lug nuts are 3/4". Now you need to get your 1-7/16" or 36mm socket with a breaker bar. Remove the cotter pin. The nut protector has a spring putting pressure on it, so watch out when you remove it. In order to turn the axle nut you'll either need someone to stand on the brakes for you, or you'll need to insert an appropriate object into the brake rotor cooling slots and have it jammed against the brake pad sliders. This nut is on there tight, so it takes a lot of force to get it to move.

Now, remove the brake caliper. The bolts are 1/2" or 13mm. Take the rotor off.



Next, remove the hub. There are three bolts on the back side, and these are 12-point 13mm bolts.



If you're lucky, you'll be able to tap on the end of the axle shaft and the hub will separate from the shaft. You may also have to use a hammer to pound on the hub itself to get it to separate from the knuckle. If you're unlucky, the hub won't separate from the axle shaft. One of mine did separate, the other won't no matter how I try to persuade it. I'm going to press it out using a borrowed shop press when I do my u-joints.
Regardless, you do need to remove the shaft from the axle. As before, just pull it straight out.
This is a good time to knock out the tie-rod ends as well. The nut is 3/4". If you'll be reusing your tie-rod ends, use an appropriate puller.



Now, use your pickle fork and hammer. Insert the pickle fork between the top of the knuckle and the bottom of the upper "C".


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post #39 of 169 Old 03-19-2015, 10:14 AM Thread Starter
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Now you need to remove the ball joints. This is an example of how to set up the press to properly remove a ball joint. The lower ball joint needs to be removed first, and it is pressed out the bottom of the C.



One of my upper ball joints had a catastrophic failure when I removed it. Not using the pin as a pressing point would have prevented this, but it didn't cause an issue on my other upper ball joint. You aren't reusing your ball joints anyway.



Now press in your new ball joints. This is an example of how to properly set up the press to press in a new ball joint. Remember, the upper ball joint presses in from the top, the lower ball joint presses in from the bottom.



You may have issues with the ball joints, especially the uppers, trying to go in at an angle. When that happens, reposition the press to press on the HIGH SIDE of the ball joint, until it is level again. You may have to reposition the press several times.

Next you install the lower ball joints. This is remarkably easier.



NEXT UP: KNUCKLE INSTALL.


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Last edited by Awesome; 03-19-2015 at 09:27 PM. Reason: Wrong image.
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post #40 of 169 Old 03-19-2015, 05:41 PM Thread Starter
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I'll have more later, but I wanted to give a quick update/warning.

Offset Tie Rod Ends will NOT work with 15" wheels.
The shoulder on the tie rod end comes into contact with the wheel BEFORE lock is achieved.

So, I am going to use the regular tie rod ends as the tie rod section, and the offset tie rod ends for the drag link. This is kind of pointless, but I don't want to spend another $100+ on tie rod ends. I was too tired to get much done today, so it remains to be seen if I'll have enough differential cover clearance with non-offset tie rod ends.

Also, with my setup it doesn't look like I'll have an issue with frame clearance, but I can see situations where SkyJ's frame notching might be required. I see he doesn't run bump stops. I am going to be doing a lot of measuring to see if I can get rid of my bump stop extensions (and thus gain another 4" of flex).

As far as my pitman arm goes, I am not quite sure if it is a drop arm or if it's stock. It drops only just enough to clear the sway bar (now completely removed), and it looks like it locates the tie rod end on the same plane as the steering box splines.

Brake caliper clearance looks fine in an initial test-fit.

What's left: Measuring the cut length for the drag link/tie rod, then welding both.
I have already installed the knuckles.

Some good news: I don't know why I didn't think of it before, but you can re-use the YJ's hub bolts. They are the proper length. There is no need to buy new hub bolts.

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post #41 of 169 Old 03-19-2015, 08:32 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Awesome
... There is no need to buy new hub bolts.
In cali-rustfree-fornia maybe...

[size=3]Shackles & D-rings are different things.
Cranking IS turning over
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post #42 of 169 Old 03-19-2015, 09:07 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by fishadventure View Post
In cali-rustfree-fornia maybe...
That was an addendum to the first page of this thread where I was asking where to buy longer hub bolts.

It hit me the other day that I made the new knuckle as thick as the stock knuckle. If it's no thicker than the stock knuckle, then stock bolts work fine. I was thinking, for some deluded reason, that I needed to use the bolts from the donor Grand Cherokee.

On an ironic note, the steering in my Suburban broke today. Now I have two vehicles that I can't drive due to steering-related issues.

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post #43 of 169 Old 03-19-2015, 09:18 PM
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Originally Posted by Awesome
That was an addendum to the first page of this thread where I was asking where to buy longer hub bolts. It hit me the other day that I made the new knuckle as thick as the stock knuckle. If it's no thicker than the stock knuckle, then stock bolts work fine. I was thinking, for some deluded reason, that I needed to use the bolts from the donor Grand Cherokee. On an ironic note, the steering in my Suburban broke today. Now I have two vehicles that I can't drive due to steering-related issues.
Well that stinks.

But no worries on the stock bolts: the axle shaft ujoints hit hex head bolts anyway. But until I finish chunking them off allnihave to do is full-crank to the left and I have a pretty solid parking brake!

[size=3]Shackles & D-rings are different things.
Cranking IS turning over
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post #44 of 169 Old 03-19-2015, 09:34 PM Thread Starter
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Well that stinks.

But no worries on the stock bolts: the axle shaft ujoints hit hex head bolts anyway. But until I finish chunking them off allnihave to do is full-crank to the left and I have a pretty solid parking brake!
I was really leery about using hex-head bolts. They don't have the shoulder on them that the stock bolts do. I guess it probably doesn't matter, since the weight of the vehicle is on the hub and not the bolts, but it made me think twice about using hex-head bolts. That's why I decided to re-use the stock bolts.

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post #45 of 169 Old 03-20-2015, 09:16 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Awesome
I was really leery about using hex-head bolts. They don't have the shoulder on them that the stock bolts do. I guess it probably doesn't matter, since the weight of the vehicle is on the hub and not the bolts, but it made me think twice about using hex-head bolts. That's why I decided to re-use the stock bolts.
No doubt flange-head bolts can provide more clamping force and are able to be more accurately torqued. I used a grade 8 bolts and washers. The way I figured it, if they fail in service, the consequences of whatever problem that occurred a split second before the bolts failed would be so catastrophic that... Well, ya... :shrug:

[size=3]Shackles & D-rings are different things.
Cranking IS turning over
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