windshield hinges...advice for removal - JeepForum.com
 1Likes
  • 1 Post By Chrisnvegas
 
LinkBack Thread Tools
post #1 of 10 Old 05-28-2020, 04:31 PM Thread Starter
Shooter113
Registered User
1991 YJ Wrangler 
 
Join Date: May 2020
Posts: 8
Garage
windshield hinges...advice for removal

Apologize if this is a forum broach of etiquette...started new thread since previous ones did not address my issue and were a couple years old.

Forced to replace windshield hinges after laying it down for other work--long story. What is the material covering up nuts on inside of tub, and is there any way to effectively remove it? I'm assuming it is some sort of water sealant-- it is slopped on all over nuts/bolts on inside with factory original paint applied on top. PITA to chisel/cut away at, and can't get a socket on backside without removing it. Was thinking about burning it off-- tested small piece I managed to cut away and it smokes black; probably some silicone base similar to P-Tex. Follow on question is do I need to replace with similar substance when I install new hinges?

Any other advice on do's/dont's during install of new hinges appreciated. Yes, I had to go with sub-standard after-markets for now; don't have the luxury of time shopping and waiting to find OEM hinges.

Shooter113 is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #2 of 10 Old 05-28-2020, 05:32 PM
Chrisnvegas
Web Wheeler
 
Chrisnvegas's Avatar
1992 YJ Wrangler 
 
Join Date: Dec 2012
Location: Nevada Territory
Posts: 9,068
Heat the torx. Lotsa heat. Once hot enough, the "stuff" melts and the torx loosens right up.
To avoid damage, I heated a long bit which transferred the heat to the torx. The bit was ruined, the hardening no longer correct, but I didn't damage the paint. I used heavy foil as a heat shield.
92 Green YJ likes this.

"Alferd Packer: “Stand up, you voracious, man-eating son of a *****, stand up! There was seven democrats in Hinsdale County and you up and ate five of them."
Chrisnvegas is offline  
post #3 of 10 Old 05-28-2020, 06:04 PM
jcourt667
Member
 
jcourt667's Avatar
1994 YJ Wrangler 
 
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: Lodi
Posts: 218
Garage
Small propane torch heating the torx worked for me. Torx came out like butter. Minimal paint damage. Was really surprised and looking for a fight, but didn't get one. Also, the hinges were not froze as this was the first time the windshield was folded down after 23 years.

94 Sahara YJ 4.0L HO. 260k miles!
jcourt667 is offline  
 
post #4 of 10 Old 05-28-2020, 10:05 PM
wizekrakr
Registered User
1989 YJ Wrangler 
 
Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: Port Orchard
Posts: 109
The material you are asking about is a brushable body seam sealer. It comes in cans you can use with a brush or also calk tube you can apply and brush over the area. You can buy it at a auto paint store if you have one in your area. Eastwood.com would also be a good place to look. Get in there with a putty knife and peel it out of the area. I also used a wire wheel on a air grinder to get some of it out. Definitely put in new when your project is done to keep water out.
wizekrakr is offline  
post #5 of 10 Old 05-28-2020, 10:32 PM
92 Green YJ
Registered User
 
92 Green YJ's Avatar
1992 YJ Wrangler 
 
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: Spring Valley, San Diego, CA
Posts: 4,246
As the others have said. Blow torch gets the job done easy. Heat the head of the bolt for a few minutes to melt thru all the crud and they spin right out.

92 Jeep Wrangler Unlimited +
Tons, 40s, tons of mods
92 Green YJ is online now  
post #6 of 10 Old 05-29-2020, 04:29 AM
fishadventure
Web Wheeler
 
fishadventure's Avatar
1989 YJ Wrangler 
 
Join Date: Jul 2013
Location: Morrisville
Posts: 7,650
Garage
The nuts shouldn’t need to be accessed unless they’re spinning, not allowing the torx to back out.

Heat will do it to get that sprayEd-in sealer soft and loose.

If it’s a rusty thing like we get around here, heat and a putty knife to expose the nut side enough to clamp vise grips on. Then a hand impact driver and heat as above

FWIW the oem hinges are the best. Aftermarket replacement hinges are generally lighter gauge and often stainless or chromed which doesn’t hold paint very well. If you can save the jeep hinges- do it.

Most YJs have an oil hole- you can heat the hinge barrel and drizzle in MMO and with multiple applications frozen hinges can be freed up.

I’ve done it a number of times, the last time on my ‘89. I had prepared and painted some donor oem hinges but couldn’t get the driver’s on the replacement tub (your issue) but I got impatient. After soaking overnight with ATF and paint thinner I heated the hinges and squirted MMO as the barrel cooled while tapping and working the hinge with an adjustable. Both hinges smooth as butter in ten minutes.

[size=“3”]Shackles & D-rings are different things.
Cranking IS turning over
fishadventure is offline  
post #7 of 10 Old 05-29-2020, 09:32 AM Thread Starter
Shooter113
Registered User
1991 YJ Wrangler 
 
Join Date: May 2020
Posts: 8
Garage
Thanks for the responses. Unfortunately, heat just got the nuts to spin freely in the sealant; had to go through the process of chiseling away enough to get a hold of them-- upper side was truly a PITA, and resorted to propane torch on inside to burn/chip away at stuff enough to wedge a flat edge in there. I now despise that stuff, and am wondering if silicone/caulk bead under tub side nut would suffice during reinstall to keep water out.

Original hinges are toast. Good advice on freeing them up; wish I had done that when laying it down. Thought it was just stiff, but that was the metal bending. One fractured on bringing it back up; the other "bent back" into almost the right shape, but it has been plastically deformed and weakened

Agree on after-market hinge quality, but I need a quick solution for now. Will shop for long term fix in parallel. I'm getting pretty efficient at pulling dash, so will likely replace these on next project when I find a set of used hinges.
Shooter113 is offline  
post #8 of 10 Old 05-30-2020, 04:07 AM
fishadventure
Web Wheeler
 
fishadventure's Avatar
1989 YJ Wrangler 
 
Join Date: Jul 2013
Location: Morrisville
Posts: 7,650
Garage
Don’t use silicone: it promotes rust.

Use butyl rubber caulking or polyurethane caulking, body seam sealer, lexel, etc. Seal-All ain’t ideal in that application but it won’t promote rust.

From automotive, boat work, to remodeling homes: I haven’t used silicone for anything in 30 years. It’s the most promoted but awful product that’s commonly available today. Glass against fiberglass, wood or aluminum it maybe is useful, it’s removable and cheap. But it shouldn’t be used in a jeep.
Silicone is the emperor’s new clothes of sealants: nobody tells the truth.
(The RTV variant like for diff covers, thermostat housings: those have a use. Silicone does not)

[size=“3”]Shackles & D-rings are different things.
Cranking IS turning over
fishadventure is offline  
post #9 of 10 Old 05-30-2020, 11:52 AM Thread Starter
Shooter113
Registered User
1991 YJ Wrangler 
 
Join Date: May 2020
Posts: 8
Garage
Thanks fishadventure-- hadn't really thought about or done much research on actual silicone before. Quick search confirms the concerns about silicone and rust...either during curing process or by trapping moisture based on type/makeup.

I just wanted something to ensure water stays out and is easy to remove: I will eventually find a set of used hinges and get around to putting them on. Getting the original sealant out enough to work torx out was a ridiculous event that shouldn't be that hard. When you recommended polyurethane, I think "great stuff"-- would be just as difficult to get out in cramped space on back of torx. Sealants are clearly not my field of expertise...

May just go with the lexel...appears a bit more "removeable".

And yep, the aftermarket hinges are pretty much how everyone has described them. Thinner steel, bolt holes off just enough to require some tooling, not as robust. You can remove doors though, and they will work for the time being to get jeep back out.

Off to find some sealant. Thanks all.
Shooter113 is offline  
post #10 of 10 Old 06-01-2020, 05:08 AM
fishadventure
Web Wheeler
 
fishadventure's Avatar
1989 YJ Wrangler 
 
Join Date: Jul 2013
Location: Morrisville
Posts: 7,650
Garage
“Great Stuff” is expanding polyurethane foam, not a sealant.

I was referring to polyurethane caulking, not foam. Lexel or Goop! would do

[size=“3”]Shackles & D-rings are different things.
Cranking IS turning over
fishadventure is offline  
Reply

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now



In order to be able to post messages on the JeepForum.com forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name, your email address and other required details in the form below.

User Name:
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.

Password:


Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid e-mail address for yourself.



Email Address:
OR

Log-in











Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools
Show Printable Version Show Printable Version
Email this Page Email this Page



Posting Rules  
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On

 
For the best viewing experience please update your browser to Google Chrome