What Transmission is this? - JeepForum.com
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post #1 of 15 Old 02-20-2021, 04:00 PM Thread Starter
gehlsurf
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Hi guys,

So gonna get the Synchros replaced.... maybe the whole transmission replaced? Lol, depending....

Is this a BA10? Or AX15? It's in an 89 YJ, but the previous owner said his son in law "upgraded" the tranny. But it's a Jeep, that can be vague, lol. This looks like an AX15 to me. Am I correct?

No bolts underneath sandwiching the case together. Bump put where that plug is, although on internet pics it seems that sometimes that bump has a rib/heat sink going through it.

Oh, and guy said if clutch needs replacing, he can order different types. Any suggestions? I drive it like a Porsche from red light to red light more than I do an off road vehicle. Please dont chastise me..... my 5 year old's giggles keep me going, lol. He loves the torque. Any suggestions on clutches?

Thank you for any help!! This pic is from the passenger side.

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post #2 of 15 Old 02-20-2021, 04:04 PM
cas6969
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If the part I'm seeing is the part I think I'm seeing, it's not a BA10.

BA10 would have a "seam" running down it top and bottom where the left and right halves bolt together.

https://pic20.picturetrail.com/VOL91.../308571430.jpg
https://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f12/...ranny-3054753/

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post #3 of 15 Old 02-20-2021, 04:32 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cas6969 View Post
If the part I'm seeing is the part I think I'm seeing, it's not a BA10.

BA10 would have a "seam" running down it top and bottom where the left and right halves bolt together.

http://pic20.picturetrail.com/VOL91/.../308571430.jpg
https://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f12/b...ranny-3054753/
Thank you, I just kind of wanted confirmation. In that above thread, it said that the BA10 is bolted together on the bottom, too, but no other replies really. Just wanted to make sure that that's correct. If that guy was wrong by chance, although doubt it, then I wouldve been wrong, too. I sometimes like triple checking, lol. Especially on this kinda stuff!!

Any suggestions for a clutch? By chance? City driving...
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post #4 of 15 Old 02-20-2021, 04:47 PM
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Yes it have that ridge / seam on the top and bottom. You can also see how much narrower it is than the AX-15 where it meets the bell housing. Also the "waffle" pattern doesn't seem as deep on the BA10.

(Several ways to tell an AX-5 from an AX-15. Easiest/fastest is with a magnet. The center section (intermediate plate) between the two halves is cast iron on the AX5, but aluminum on the Ax15)

Sorry I've no advice on the clutch, other than don't pinch pennies (unless the whole thing isn't long for the world. lol)

Silicone, the thinking man's duct tape.
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post #5 of 15 Old 02-20-2021, 10:57 PM
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I've had a "Grip Force" (I believe it is) in mine for almost 10 years, it's worked really well.

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post #6 of 15 Old 02-21-2021, 05:26 AM
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http://transpartswarehouse.com/catal...category/9285/

If you have it apart for “synchros” reassemble with new bearings. And BTW, download the AX15 manual, sure, good reference. But DON’t follow its rebuild instructions. The meanmax write up here in /f12 FAQ will save you hours and answer all your questions

(Wow. Just looked for curiosity. Omix is supposed to ‘serve’ the jeep community but their transmission parts are twice the price of everyone online except east coast gear which is almost twice as much. Caveat Emptor)
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[size=“3”]Shackles & D-rings are different things.
Cranking IS turning over
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post #7 of 15 Old 02-21-2021, 08:33 AM
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As for the clutch, I've seen LUK clutch kits mentioned on here more than once. Eventually I'll have to do mine and plan to go with a LUK kit probably from Rock Auto.

89 YJ Parts Bin Special titled as 84 CJ7; parts ranging from 1984 -2000; 4.2L with AX-15. Also a 2000 XJ Sport 2WD with a troublesome AW4.
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post #8 of 15 Old 02-21-2021, 01:46 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cas6969 View Post
Yes it have that ridge / seam on the top and bottom. You can also see how much narrower it is than the AX-15 where it meets the bell housing. Also the "waffle" pattern doesn't seem as deep on the BA10.

(Several ways to tell an AX-5 from an AX-15. Easiest/fastest is with a magnet. The center section (intermediate plate) between the two halves is cast iron on the AX5, but aluminum on the Ax15)

Sorry I've no advice on the clutch, other than don't pinch pennies (unless the whole thing isn't long for the world. lol)
Well, it's been on a 258 for about 5 years, been grinding if shifted too quick for that long, too. Lol, I HOPE it's an AX15 and not 5!! But I have seen people have problems identifying them when out.

From what I've read, it isn't easy to slap in an AX5 to the rear of a 258. Wouldnt suprise me if someone has done it though....
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post #9 of 15 Old 02-21-2021, 03:32 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks guys, I'll check out the clutches!!
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post #10 of 15 Old 02-21-2021, 03:37 PM
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You mention grinding on quick shifts. I've posted this before somewhere, but when I bought mine and changed out all the fluids the AX-15 had what was probably GL-5 gear oil in it because when I drained it the synchros all drained out as little tiny brass flakes. After putting the currently recommended motor oil back in I called on my experience learning to drive stick shifts in the sixties when not all were synchronized. Learned to time some shifts slower, some quicker, pause in neutral between downshifts going around corners, double clutching occasionally, and I'm good to go for a long time before I have to even think about rebuilding the transmission - if ever.

89 YJ Parts Bin Special titled as 84 CJ7; parts ranging from 1984 -2000; 4.2L with AX-15. Also a 2000 XJ Sport 2WD with a troublesome AW4.
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post #11 of 15 Old 02-21-2021, 04:36 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fishadventure View Post
http://transpartswarehouse.com/catal...category/9285/

If you have it apart for “synchros” reassemble with new bearings. And BTW, download the AX15 manual, sure, good reference. But DON’t follow its rebuild instructions. The meanmax write up here in /f12 FAQ will save you hours and answer all your questions

(Wow. Just looked for curiosity. Omix is supposed to ‘serve’ the jeep community but their transmission parts are twice the price of everyone online except east coast gear which is almost twice as much. Caveat Emptor)
Do you or anyone have a link to meanmax's write up? I'm curious what he says. I tried searching from every angle and couldn't come up with it.

I rebuilt an AX-5 using the YJ FSM and had no trouble following it other then leaving out the little plastic funnel for the rear bearing. It fell out when I had the rear case shell in the parts washer. Only cost me time and another gasket.
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post #12 of 15 Old 02-21-2021, 04:43 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mark1305 View Post
You mention grinding on quick shifts. I've posted this before somewhere, but when I bought mine and changed out all the fluids the AX-15 had what was probably GL-5 gear oil in it because when I drained it the synchros all drained out as little tiny brass flakes. After putting the currently recommended motor oil back in I called on my experience learning to drive stick shifts in the sixties when not all were synchronized. Learned to time some shifts slower, some quicker, pause in neutral between downshifts going around corners, double clutching occasionally, and I'm good to go for a long time before I have to even think about rebuilding the transmission - if ever.
On the plus side, now you get to use the cheap GL-5 gear oil without worrying about anything.

The 4th 5-seater YJ in the world.
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post #13 of 15 Old 02-21-2021, 05:15 PM Thread Starter
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Lol, yeah, it probably wouldve lasted a long time, but I drive my Jeep more like a 914 than I do a "Wrangler".

I screen grabbed this from the Novak site. What fluid do you guys run? It would suck to rebuild it and have the same problem.

I took it to AAMCO. Some might not dig that idea, but they carry a warranty. I like using smaller shops, but stuff sometimes takes forever, and they sometimes like to blame you for "driving it hard", or swearing "it worked when I gave it to you"... big corporations usually can take a hit and will save face with warranties, from what I've seen. But I still do my due diligence, and sometimes make "requests" and they typically follow. Ine request would be type of fluid, lol.
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post #14 of 15 Old 02-22-2021, 06:30 AM
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[QUOTE=Flyer58;41207809]
Quote:
Originally Posted by fishadventure View Post
Do you or anyone have a link to meanmax's write up? I'm curious what he says. I tried searching from every angle and couldn't come up with it..
NEITHER COULD I. And that makes me mad. Why isn’t it still linked in the FAQs?
So using alternative methods here it is:
https://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f12/...topics/1032480
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[size=“3”]Shackles & D-rings are different things.
Cranking IS turning over
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post #15 of 15 Old 02-22-2021, 07:11 AM
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Yours is a 258. I don't believe the AX5 bolts to a 258, unless the PO used a Dodge Dakota bell housing. (Edit: the Dakota bell housing is used when fitting an AX15 on to a 2.5, 4 cyl.)

Do you have an internal slave cylinder or external slave? (An AX15 could have either, the BA10 is only internal.)

As for clutches, get LUK-y. The kits will depend on whether it is internal or external slaves.

Tim

87 Comanche, 4.0, AX15 (formerly BA10/5), D44
84 CJ7, 4.0 (93 XJ) AX15 (Formerly T5)
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