What kind of oil do you use? - JeepForum.com
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post #1 of 20 Old 10-28-2020, 05:40 PM Thread Starter
EmilianoL
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What kind of oil do you use?

Hello I was wondering if I could get some ideas on what kind of oil you guys run. I currently run 10w-30 and I was thinking about changing it for the winter to 5w-30 for it to run smoother in the cold. I live in New Mexico so we have really hot summers and I expect this winter to be pretty cold. FYI I have the 4.2 carbureted.

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post #2 of 20 Old 10-28-2020, 06:21 PM
wildbill23c
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I'm up north and run 5w-30 in my 98 Grand Cherokee with a zinc additive. Jeep is being sold so won't have it much longer and won't have to worry about the additive.

It really depends on the age of your vehicle and what engine it has. I think most of the newer stuff is using some formulation of a 0w type oil. I actually saw a 0w-16 oil the other day I was like what would you run water in LOL.
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post #3 of 20 Old 10-28-2020, 07:16 PM
bgredjeep
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We've fallen to fb group levels. Lol

Rotella 15w40, or 20w50 diesel oil. My 4.2 is pretty tired. It holds better oil pressure with the heavier weight oil


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post #4 of 20 Old 10-28-2020, 09:07 PM
bruinjeeper
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How cold does it get in New Mexico?

I'm in Canada (block heater country). i switch it up to 5w-30 in January for the deep freeze.
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post #5 of 20 Old 10-29-2020, 06:34 AM
JeeperDon
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I'm in Albuquerque. I use 10w-30 full Syn, been a Castol fan since forever was just starting.

'93 YJ, '02 GM 4.3V6, SOA, dual ARB's, 8.8+D30(WarnHubs), 4.88s, 35" Patagonia M/Ts, AX15, NP231+4:1+SYE+2LO, York OBA.
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post #6 of 20 Old 10-29-2020, 07:14 AM
fishadventure
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Pretty sure it doesn’t get colder for you than the published service range of 10-30 so it’s unclear why you would vary from that.
If you want it to run smoother give a thorough tune up.

[size=3]Shackles & D-rings are different things.
Cranking IS turning over
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post #7 of 20 Old 10-29-2020, 07:49 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JeeperDon View Post
I'm in Albuquerque. I use 10w-30 full Syn, been a Castol fan since forever was just starting.
I'm usually Pennzoil if both are at their normal cost, Castrol GTX tends to go on sale often though.... 18$ CAD for the 5L jug. When that happens and I see it, I pick it up preemptively.

~YJOTM MAY '16, JULY '19~


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post #8 of 20 Old 10-29-2020, 07:55 AM
mark1305
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I run 10W-30 year round here in central Florida. Good oil pressure from 60+ cold idle to 20+ warm idle. I add Marvel Mystery oil with each oil change. First time was to cure one or two sticky lifters that were tapping after start up. It worked and cleaned so much gunk out of the motor I've continued to use it.

89 YJ Parts Bin Special titled as 84 CJ7; parts ranging from 1984 -2000; 4.2L with AX-15. Also a 2000 XJ Sport 2WD with a troublesome AW4.
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post #9 of 20 Old 10-29-2020, 08:17 AM
Anotherusername
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Quote:
Originally Posted by EmilianoL View Post
Hello I was wondering if I could get some ideas on what kind of oil you guys run. I currently run 10w-30 and I was thinking about changing it for the winter to 5w-30 for it to run smoother in the cold. I live in New Mexico so we have really hot summers and I expect this winter to be pretty cold. FYI I have the 4.2 carbureted.
I'm in north Texas so the weather isn't an issue. I have a 75 CJ5. It was recommended straight 30 be used in mine so that's what I did for a number of years. I always had an issue with oil pressure being low. I even replaced the motor and still the pressure was low. Then one time I needed to change the oil and I couldn't find straight 30 so I used 5W30 that I had. From that time on the oil pressure problem was solved. I don't understand how the multi-grade oil would increase the oil pressure but it did.
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post #10 of 20 Old 11-06-2020, 11:44 AM
mikewiz38
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I've asked this same question before and did a bunch of research last year....which I mostly forgot. The conclusion I came out of it with was that it's really your own preference what you want to use. I was about to go the Rotella route but decided not to because it was for diesel....and I know people say it's OK for our engine but I passed on it.

Personally, I chose Mobil 1, full syn, 5w-30. I will say that if you ask this, everybody has their own answers, and I think we're all right. The biggest thing is to make sure you do those oil changes.

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post #11 of 20 Old 11-10-2020, 06:25 PM
fishadventure
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Why not 10-30?

[size=3]Shackles & D-rings are different things.
Cranking IS turning over
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post #12 of 20 Old 11-11-2020, 07:40 AM
mikewiz38
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Originally Posted by fishadventure View Post
Why not 10-30?
That's a good question.... When I looked into it last year (or maybe the year before), I could had sworn I read that 5w-30 was in the temperature range for the upper midwest. Now that I look at the FSM though, I see that 10w30 probably would had been a better choice.

I bought the jeep and the PO used a blend, can't remember the weight. I didn't drive it much, but I didn't notice any leaking. Shortly after buying it, I started to do a bunch of things to it. I changed the oil over to full syn 5w-30 and noticed a small drip at the RMS. If it sits, there's no drips. But if I drive it, I can smell oil dripping onto the exhaust every ten minutes or so. So far, after a few hundred miles, there was minimal decrease of oil consumption too. This is telling me that it's not that bad of a leak, but it's still leaking.

I didn't know if it always did that, if it's doing it from a full syn switch, or now, maybe because I'm using too light of an oil. This next oil change, I think I'll try 10w30, just because the FSM says to. Hopefully that will fix the leak because I didn't really feel like changing that RMS just yet.

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post #13 of 20 Old 11-11-2020, 08:13 AM
JeeperDon
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I think everyone over thinks oil. I suspect the difference between 10-30 and any other reasonable viscosity that is changed every 3000 miles means the motor will last 200,000 miles vs 240,000 miles. That may seem like a not-nothing difference, but it's not worth all the effort trying to guess which viscosity will get the max. The 3000 mile part has more effect than the thick-thin part.

'93 YJ, '02 GM 4.3V6, SOA, dual ARB's, 8.8+D30(WarnHubs), 4.88s, 35" Patagonia M/Ts, AX15, NP231+4:1+SYE+2LO, York OBA.
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post #14 of 20 Old 11-11-2020, 08:17 AM
Towny72
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I have been using Pennzoil HM 10W-30 since I got the Jeep in 04.

Now knowing what I do now I would not gone the High Millage route, countless threads on how the seals become "addicted" to the additive in that oil so its hard to go back.

Socialism gave us the Yugo, I'll pass!
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post #15 of 20 Old 11-11-2020, 10:04 AM
mark1305
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mikewiz38 View Post
That's a good question.... When I looked into it last year (or maybe the year before), I could had sworn I read that 5w-30 was in the temperature range for the upper midwest. Now that I look at the FSM though, I see that 10w30 probably would had been a better choice.

I bought the jeep and the PO used a blend, can't remember the weight. I didn't drive it much, but I didn't notice any leaking. Shortly after buying it, I started to do a bunch of things to it. I changed the oil over to full syn 5w-30 and noticed a small drip at the RMS. If it sits, there's no drips. But if I drive it, I can smell oil dripping onto the exhaust every ten minutes or so. So far, after a few hundred miles, there was minimal decrease of oil consumption too. This is telling me that it's not that bad of a leak, but it's still leaking.

I didn't know if it always did that, if it's doing it from a full syn switch, or now, maybe because I'm using too light of an oil. This next oil change, I think I'll try 10w30, just because the FSM says to. Hopefully that will fix the leak because I didn't really feel like changing that RMS just yet.
After switching one of the Ducati 900s from regular Castrol to full synthetic I developed a leak around the input shaft from the dry clutch to the transmission. Some research revealed that it is not uncommon for a motor broken in and run for a long time on regular dino oil will develop leaks at shaft seals when switched to full synthetic.

After buying about $60 worth of seals and o-rings (that clutch shaft is complex) and putting off the repair for a while I went back to dino oil and within a few thousand miles the seals all healed up and the leak stopped. So you may be able to "heal" your seals going back to regular dino oil. Try it and see. And report back any results.

89 YJ Parts Bin Special titled as 84 CJ7; parts ranging from 1984 -2000; 4.2L with AX-15. Also a 2000 XJ Sport 2WD with a troublesome AW4.
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