Weird BA10/5 Issue - JeepForum.com
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post #1 of 13 Old 07-23-2019, 12:59 PM Thread Starter
KARamsay
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Weird BA10/5 Issue

Before we start... POS - I know. It's on the list to replace. I don't like reading the opinion section.

Now for the question and answer section...

New clutch, Slave, Master, line and bleeder.
Running a high quality DOT 3/4.
Fresh oil in the case.
I believe that everything is set properly.
Transmission drives and shifts very well, until it gets HOT. Then it will not go into gear properly.
I can drive it "syncing" the transmission, but that is not right.
Clutch holds at full stops - but over time I can start to feel it wanting to pull at a full stop.
I put a speed bleeder on it so I can easily bleed by myself.
Bleeding tends to make it go away for a short while.

Any thoughts?

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post #2 of 13 Old 07-23-2019, 01:07 PM
Siva283
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Sounds like there is a leak somewhere. WHile it may not be leaking fluid out it could be leaking air in. I have no good ways of finding it if its letting air in other than taking it all off and giving a very close inspection. I would assume its an O Ring somewhere.
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post #3 of 13 Old 07-24-2019, 08:27 PM
Mechman71
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What type of oil are you running? It sounds to me like you're running too light an oil. I use 80W90 hypoid gear oil and mine has pulled 163k and just won't quit. I'm not sure what the last owner had in it, but I'm pretty sure it wasn't hypoid oil. The majority of old manual transmissions out there need hypoid oil, it's designed to leave a tough film on the teeth of the gears that won't get squeezed out due to the high pressure. That's why your rears use it, too. If your level is correct and it's still getting hot, unless someone strapped your exhaust pipe to it, your oil choice isn't up to the job.

'89 YJ "Night Eagle" 4.2 5spd, Spinnaker blue/grey, hard top and doors, mostly stock and RUST FREE!!
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post #4 of 13 Old 07-25-2019, 12:41 PM Thread Starter
KARamsay
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The trans has fresh 75W-90 AMS.

I don't think the tranny is getting hot but will check - clutch issues happen when it is hot.
I never liked the feel of the hose connection at the master - I'll play o ring there first then work my way down.

I do have a 2" header that come across (stock location) in front of the transmission. Maybe try some heat wrap there as a rule out.
The pipes are not that hot - engine run very happy temp ranges.
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post #5 of 13 Old 07-25-2019, 01:41 PM
Siva283
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Factory Spec is 10w30 motor oil. A great many of us myself included use it. The only trans problems I have had is water getting in them.
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post #6 of 13 Old 07-25-2019, 08:06 PM
Azhunter1
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Siva283 View Post
Factory Spec is 10w30 motor oil. A great many of us myself included use it. The only trans problems I have had is water getting in them.
Are you sure your manual says 10w 30 motor oil? my factory manual and chilton and Haynes all say 75w/90w gl-5 gear lube.
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post #7 of 13 Old 07-25-2019, 08:17 PM
badweatherbiker
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The manual was updated several years ago in regards to the AX5 and 10/30 is the recommended lube, GL5 eats away brass syncros. I am not sure if this applies to the BA10/5 though.
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post #8 of 13 Old 07-26-2019, 06:28 AM
Siva283
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Azhunter1 View Post
Are you sure your manual says 10w 30 motor oil? my factory manual and chilton and Haynes all say 75w/90w gl-5 gear lube.
The manual was revised when they discovered GL-5 will eat your syncros up. So the new or revised factory spec is 10w30 and I have been using it in mine for the past 10 years just good ole walmart brand 10w30 synthetic
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post #9 of 13 Old 07-26-2019, 09:02 PM
Mechman71
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After re-reading your first post, my vote is that you have either a bad master or slave cylinder, or both. I've had brand new off the shelf master AND slaves fail within days of installation. I bought them at Autozone - I'm on my fourth master cylinder (it's failing again) and my third new slave. The next time the slave fails, I've sworn to myself that regardless of how my trans is working (pretty good right now), I'm going to throw it away and install an external slave AX-15 and be done with pulling the thing. I believe that most likely one of your clutch hydraulic cylinders has some internal blow-by and isn't delivering the force necessary to adequately move your pressure plate and disengage your clutch.



I guess the moral of my tale is that if you're going to replace the stock hydraulics and keep your BA10/5, buy top quality parts like Omix from some place like Quadratec that sells enough of them that you're not buying parts that have sat on a warehouse shelf for 20+ years. Pulling the trans and then having to bleed the stinking thing once is miserable enough, pulling it three times for the same problem is...

'89 YJ "Night Eagle" 4.2 5spd, Spinnaker blue/grey, hard top and doors, mostly stock and RUST FREE!!
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post #10 of 13 Old 07-27-2019, 06:20 PM
dwtaylorpdx
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Full synthetc 20W50 makes my AX5 shift perfect, 10w30 makes it kinda notchy, but when I rebuilt it we took all the bearing shrouds out YES GL5 will ruin the syncros,, and fairly quickly. (Used wrong stuff once grabbed wrong bottle... I change the fluid once a year..
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post #11 of 13 Old 07-29-2019, 06:30 AM Thread Starter
KARamsay
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iNTERESTING - it is not hard to change it out.
I have a transmission pour hose with about 14" - I can fill it up right through the drain plug in the passenger floor.

I think it may be the master. I have ordered an additional LUK.
slave is new LUK with timkin bearing.

Spent most of the free time this weekend changing ball joints out on the FJ. I'll see if I am allowed to play jeep next weekend.
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post #12 of 13 Old 08-12-2019, 08:57 AM Thread Starter
KARamsay
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Update - swapped the Master - Bled - pedal feels a lot better. I am going to replace the hydraulic cable as I am still having some issues.
Also - swapped the 75w-90 with a nice AMS HD 10w-30

While I was rolling around underneath I changed out all the body mounts - WHAT A DIFFERENCE - It feels like riding on AIR!
https://www.quadratec.com/products/16058_3X_PG.htm

I would recommend buying fresh retainers - They were in less than perfect shape
https://www.quadratec.com/p/crown-au...wrangler-yt-tj
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post #13 of 13 Old 09-03-2019, 11:23 AM Thread Starter
KARamsay
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Gently used AX-15 and a slew of parts are on the way.

I changed out everything and would bleed it to only have it slip out in less than 30 miles. - pretty much no one makes a decent new slave. I am going to an AX15 with an external slave set up.
I have a used trans and T-case on the way.


Quote:
Originally Posted by Mechman71 View Post
After re-reading your first post, my vote is that you have either a bad master or slave cylinder, or both. I've had brand new off the shelf master AND slaves fail within days of installation. I bought them at Autozone - I'm on my fourth master cylinder (it's failing again) and my third new slave. The next time the slave fails, I've sworn to myself that regardless of how my trans is working (pretty good right now), I'm going to throw it away and install an external slave AX-15 and be done with pulling the thing. I believe that most likely one of your clutch hydraulic cylinders has some internal blow-by and isn't delivering the force necessary to adequately move your pressure plate and disengage your clutch.

I guess the moral of my tale is that if you're going to replace the stock hydraulics and keep your BA10/5, buy top quality parts like Omix from some place like Quadratec that sells enough of them that you're not buying parts that have sat on a warehouse shelf for 20+ years. Pulling the trans and then having to bleed the stinking thing once is miserable enough, pulling it three times for the same problem is...
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