Weber 32/36 Install Write-up - Page 12 - JeepForum.com
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post #166 of 257 Old 04-19-2012, 11:15 AM
straightsixjeep
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Quote:
Originally Posted by zrides View Post
Figured I would try to help, but its been ages since I put on my Weber, and can barely remember what I ate yesterday, so this may be fuzzy. I used RTV sealer for the gaskets, just a thin coat enough to seal. As for the Regulator, mine has been set at 5-6psi, I change it depending on the weather, but 3 seems low, but I do live in Michigan, so more fuel may be needed. Make sure you do a Nutter Bypass, as that is much needed if your removing the Carter. I basically took all the vacuum lines off mine, including all the emissions, but Michigan doesn't require Smog testing so it wasn't a concern, not to mention how much cleaner then engine compartment looks with all that off there. I didn't have to touch any of the adjustment screws, make sure your E-Choke is hooked up, and allow it to run after start-up for awhile before kicking it down, if I mess with the throttle after it starts it will die after a few seconds, stumble onto its face. The nutter bypass and your timing set right should put you in the perfect realm, make sure you don't have any vacuum, or air leaks as well. Hope I helped, or at least tried too, just woke up so hopefully this makes some since, I just saw no one had responded and wanted to make sure someone gave you somewhat of an Idea.
Thanks for your input! Im going to clean the carb inside and out and order a rebuild kit. I also need new gaskets for below, between, and on top of the adapter plates. I saw someone said to refrain from rtv however anything is better than the sealer I used that turned to gunk! Im going to turn the idle screw in one turn once it comes in contact with the linkage. Then set mix screw to 2 turn out and adjust for best lean idle. Only thing that really worries me is where it was leaking gas out from the end of the secondary shaft.

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post #167 of 257 Old 04-19-2012, 01:20 PM
mcmud
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Set your speed screw to 1-1/2 turns inward once its tip makes contact with the stop. It is vital that your choke plates are fully open while you cycle the throttle open an closed prior to attempting that screw adjustment. A great way to determine that the throttle plate is in fact set within spec is to verify that there is zero vacuum at the "S" port (that one farthest from the mixture screw) while at idle.

Then preset you mixture screw to... oh say to three turns out. Start the engine and allow it to completely warm then slowly work the mixture screw inward allowing adequate time for the engine to respond to each adjustment until the engine begins a rather constant misfire then work it outward allowing time for its reaction to the point that the misfire is seldom heard....say every ten seconds.

There is nothing worse that RTV to use on those gaskets. Either apply grease or soak them in motor oil instead.

It depends on when the leak occurs at that secondary rod as to what might be the cause of it leaking.
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post #168 of 257 Old 04-19-2012, 06:00 PM
straightsixjeep
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mcmud View Post
Set your speed screw to 1-1/2 turns inward once its tip makes contact with the stop. It is vital that your choke plates are fully open while you cycle the throttle open an closed prior to attempting that screw adjustment. A great way to determine that the throttle plate is in fact set within spec is to verify that there is zero vacuum at the "S" port (that one farthest from the mixture screw) while at idle.

Then preset you mixture screw to... oh say to three turns out. Start the engine and allow it to completely warm then slowly work the mixture screw inward allowing adequate time for the engine to respond to each adjustment until the engine begins a rather constant misfire then work it outward allowing time for its reaction to the point that the misfire is seldom heard....say every ten seconds.

There is nothing worse that RTV to use on those gaskets. Either apply grease or soak them in motor oil instead.

It depends on when the leak occurs at that secondary rod as to what might be the cause of it leaking.
MCMUD, thank you very much for your reply. Upon firing it up, I saw gas leak from each side of the carb where it mounts to the top adapter plate. However, there was a slow yet constant drip of fuel out the end of the secondary shaft. Im going to phone carbs direct for a rebuild kit and the gaskets for below, between, and on top of the adapter plates. From cycling the throttle with the jeep not running it would stop half way and id have to push the choke butterflies open to allow full throttle. The choke butterflies opened up when I fired it up. Whats scary is that it ran for a few secs then died and had no throttle response. The main gasket when you pull the top of the carb off was in bad shape, the center two holes that go around what I believe are the air jets, was torn. Hope to get new gaskets by monday so I dont have to bike to class.
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post #169 of 257 Old 04-19-2012, 06:43 PM
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You are welcome.
Once you have the carb cover off be sure to check the float setting. If it is set to high in the bowl and with the condition of the body to cover gasket this may very well be the issue with the throttle rods leaking.
If you were to find that the floats are set to or very near spec then it nor the gasket condition would not play a part.

If the secondary throttle plate is closed to spec in other words to within .00165" off of the bore there should be zero fuel reaching that plate while at idle.

Same pretty much goes for the primary bore, although the circumferential clearance is/should be the same, its edges that are farthest away from the throttle plate rod is opened to the extent that the curb idle speed screw is set. At 1-1/2 turns in that clearance should be expected to be within a range of .016" and all fuel would entering the intake from beneath the throttle plate... zero leak at the throttle rod since it is above the mixture screw hole.

So this leaves us with the additional possibility of worn out throttle rod bushings yet that leak would/should occur only when under power, including the secondary being open.
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post #170 of 257 Old 04-19-2012, 06:49 PM
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I forgot to post the diagram that may help with checking on the float setting.
Attached Thumbnails
weber floats.jpg  
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post #171 of 257 Old 04-19-2012, 07:07 PM
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Thanks again, when I saw you replied originally I was relieved because I know your the pro when it comes to these carbs. When im back in the garage tonight I will take measurements. fyi my carb has the brass float. I will post back tonight. edit: didnt get pics tonight like I was hoping, will once Im out of class tmrw and Il snap some in the daylight.
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post #172 of 257 Old 04-26-2012, 04:33 PM
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Sorry I have not replied, the weber carb kit Finally arrived. I was hoping there would be a little chart to measure the float drop but there wasnt. I fully disassembled the carb and cleaned it. One issue, upon disassemble a steel ball fell out. I took out the air jets, then the ones at the bottom of the bowl. Also removed the little valve in the bottom of the bowl. Lastly, removed the piece that sprays the fuel into the barrels of the carb. After I did this I turned it over a a tiny steel ball fell out. Il just use a tape measure to check the float drop, I can already tell that it has to much play. If you have a moment please let me know where you think that ball goes. Deeply appreciated mcmud, thank you.
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post #173 of 257 Old 04-26-2012, 06:11 PM
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I put that steel ball back under the fuel nozzle, and also discovered the float was way out of spec. It needed apx 1/4in added to its drop, and apx 1/8in when tilted back and contacting the ball in the needle. going to go hook it up, wish me luck.
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post #174 of 257 Old 04-26-2012, 11:22 PM
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Yeah you re-located the ball in the right place if it is in fact needed. It has often been used as a band-aid for a leaky Pump Delivery Valve Assembly, that anti-bleed valve thing which sits on top of the Pump Jet.

Hopefully I caught up with you in time to confirm the float setting and the overall cleaning if not well there may be another day when we discuss it.

If you mounted it let us know how well it worked out.

You've got my best wishes.
I'm sorry to be so late responding to your posts.... been away.
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post #175 of 257 Old 04-27-2012, 11:32 AM
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Very weak video however the second I hit record it was starting to rain. The piece that swivels at the bottom of the throttle mount bolted to the side of the intake is fully seated/foot completly off the pedal but the throttle lever is not seating on the idle screw. Im going to see if I can get a longer stud and then screw the heim connectors onto that since the heim connectors are both barely on the rod right now (extended it as far as it would go).
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post #176 of 257 Old 04-27-2012, 11:34 PM
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The issue of the linkage stems from using the OEM rod from the OEM accel bracket to the Weber pivot bracket. The install kit should have arrived with a long rod (replacing that OEM rod) and a short one.
Maybe your install of a longer short rod will square things... I hope.
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post #177 of 257 Old 04-29-2012, 06:19 PM
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I have found the kit I need!!!
To anyone who needs the weber linkage kit for our 4.2L 258ci, here it is - http://www.carburetion.com/Weber/inv...art1=99007.551
Heres new adapter gaskets - http://www.carburetion.com/weber/inv...art1=99005.551
Its going to rain until Friday, that means If I get the kit before then Il have the Jeep ready to go muddin Saturday. Fingers crossed
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post #178 of 257 Old 04-30-2012, 01:49 PM
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Quick question. If I route my dist advance line to manifold vac, where can I hook up the two hoses from the cto that t into each other? Can I route those to the egr port or should they be capped off? I have ordered the linkage kit and new gaskets, very excited to get this jeep going again. This is the best forum on the web, thank you everyone that has helped. specifically, MCMUD!!!
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post #179 of 257 Old 05-04-2012, 11:12 PM
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Give this one some consideration.
It includes a TVS (Thermo Vacuum Switch) an OEM gizmo that will regulate/hold the EGR vacuum signal until ambient temps reach about 50*F.

These switches are inside the OEM jeep air filter housing. Also found on most all carbed Ford air filter housings and can be easily fitted to the Weber gauze filter assembly.
Attached Thumbnails
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post #180 of 257 Old 05-04-2012, 11:43 PM
mcmud
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And one without the use of the TVS.




Note the plug on that fifth nipple at the CTO on both of these diagrams.

The OEM cap typically fitted onto that nipple is a regulated air bleed valve that you will no longer need/want.
Attached Thumbnails
weber manifold advance wo TVS.JPG  
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