Unscrewing this jeep from a life of rednecks and rust - JeepForum.com
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post #1 of 51 Old 09-02-2018, 12:46 PM Thread Starter
Ryan Piar
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Unscrewing this jeep from a life of rednecks and rust

First post...........in about 15 years. I was a member in another life. Dont even remember my user name or old email(doesnt matter). I was an avid XJer with a mildly built rig. I used to know all kinds of useless crap about XJ's and general Jeep stuff. Anyway, Ive got a YJ now. It is actually for my wife. She had an accident in her 2-door XJ and it is done for. It was a 5 speed 4.0 with 4.10's. I recently acquired this YJ to fix into a local DD. I thought about doing a driveline swap, but changed my mind. I like the little 4cyl and the AX-5 should be fine for our use. We'll see if the D35 holds up.

Okay, now for the nasty. The front and rear frame ends are toast. Except for the front pass side. It is fine. The front left shackle mount is completely ripped off. The remainder of the frame where the steering box mounts to is TOAST. Just like all of them i suppose. The rear frame ends have been "rebuilt"(It is difficult using that term). If I could only post pics of this mess. The previous owner had it "fixed". SO, I have to cut off(or just pull off with my bare hands) everything that was welded(read: hot glued) to the rear end sections of the frame.

In simple terms, I need to replace my frame ends. Not a real big deal for me. There are also a few patches needed in the frame rails where some cracks have formed as well as some rust repair. I have the ability to do it. I also have a CNC plasma table(and plasma unit), mig/tig/stick welder, and everything else I need to do the job.

My goal is to have this heep on the road in a couple weeks. We MUST HAVE off road capable 4x4's to get HOME to our cabin. Our "driveway" is a mile long "trail" up a "mountain"(we call them hills around here). It has ruts, rocks, mud, narrow spots with scary drops but is fairly mild otherwise(and steep). A stocker can make it up and down about 50% of the year. That kind of thing. We have my 1ton obs F350 Crew 4x4 that serves us beautifully. However we are missing that XJ. This YJ will be used for her to drive to work 3 days a week and to get around with the kids on our 100acre property and visit neighbors, etc. . I dont need a full tilt trail rig, but this will see "trails" nearly every day of the year. So it does need some extra beef.

I want to make my own shackles as well. Is there anyone out there with a DXF for boomerang shackles? I did check the file sharing thread and no luck. Maybe just some pointers and correct dimensions would get me going. I would also like to find some dxf files for my repair patches but I may be on my own with that.

Does anyone have any advice from their own experience of doing these repairs? Alot of it is common sense but I dont know everything. I want to reinforce the steering box area. I noticed the steering box has two bolts on the bottom of the frame. If I go with thicker material on the inside of the rail, do I need to recess it into the rail so as to keep the same outside dimensions of the rail? Does this make sense? More questions to come Im sure. Thanks!


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post #2 of 51 Old 09-02-2018, 01:04 PM Thread Starter
Ryan Piar
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Oh, and what are the best motor mounts to use? Mine are...well.............gone....

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post #3 of 51 Old 09-02-2018, 02:33 PM
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Sorry, i don’t have .dxf files of the frame ends. Mine are .crd_brd files.

Anyway, yes, keeping the bottom and outside faces makes it simpler to bolt on the steering box, and it maintains the steering wheel clocking. I think it’s important to maintain the internal pillars that cross the frame width, too.

Motor mounts? I like the factory-style rubber ones because they’re anti-vibe. People preach about Brown Dogs being the strongest though.
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[size=“3”]Shackles & D-rings are different things.
Cranking IS turning over
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post #4 of 51 Old 09-02-2018, 03:52 PM
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Welcome back to the forum.


You will soon find out there is a piece that is under the passenger side motor mount. It's stamped steel that doesn't have the strength to last long. This is only for the 2.5L by the way. For this part, I would highly recommend the Brown Dog replacement. It's welded steel and guaranteed for life. I can't tell you about Brown Dog motor mounts. Because every time I've needed one, I need it tomorrow. No time to wait to be shipped.


I have a '94 FSM with an electrical diagnostic manual. And I also have a parts catalog. Just send me a PM, and I'll send you a link to download them.

.
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post #5 of 51 Old 09-02-2018, 04:30 PM Thread Starter
Ryan Piar
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mr.B View Post
Welcome back to the forum.


You will soon find out there is a piece that is under the passenger side motor mount. It's stamped steel that doesn't have the strength to last long. This is only for the 2.5L by the way. For this part, I would highly recommend the Brown Dog replacement. It's welded steel and guaranteed for life. I can't tell you about Brown Dog motor mounts. Because every time I've needed one, I need it tomorrow. No time to wait to be shipped.

I have a '94 FSM with an electrical diagnostic manual. And I also have a parts catalog. Just send me a PM, and I'll send you a link to download them.
Thank you for that! Will do.
Maybe I will make my own. I cant really get a good look at them with the motor sitting there. But it looks flimsy. Maybe I will fab my own. I will check out the Brown Dog ones for sure.
Quote:
Originally Posted by fishadventure View Post
Sorry, i don’t have .dxf files of the frame ends. Mine are .crd_brd files.
Hmm.....I havent figured out how to load card board into the plasma table yet. I wish I could just take a pic and have it auto scaled to perfectly cut it out.

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post #6 of 51 Old 09-02-2018, 04:34 PM Thread Starter
Ryan Piar
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Communication is not a strong point of mine lol

Does anyone feel that 1/8" is too thin for the steering box frame area? I am not accustomed to working with this thin stuff.

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post #7 of 51 Old 09-02-2018, 05:02 PM
Mr.B
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What ever the stock thickness is, I would double that. I've seen gearboxes ripped right off.
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White '94 YJ 2.5L 5 speed, 35" BFGs KM2's, 5" lift, Mark VII 2 speed fan, Milemarker PE8000, Front Aussie Locker, Power steering conversion, '98 Cavalier seats, MORE Boomerangs in front, 136 amp ZJ alternator, JB conversions SYE, Tom Woods custom drive shaft, 8.8 with ARB, 4.88 gear ratio, Teralow


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Quote:
Originally Posted by Major Sanderson
You have no respect for excessive authority or obsolete traditions. You're dangerous and depraved, and you ought to be taken outside and shot!
Quote:
Originally Posted by Beefstew
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Mr.B's post gets you as close to Buddha as you can get on JF...
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post #8 of 51 Old 09-02-2018, 05:59 PM
silvertjsteve
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1/8th is a bit light for somewhere that makes it so you can steer the rig. Just my 2 bits

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post #9 of 51 Old 09-02-2018, 07:33 PM
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I would strip the XJ even if you aren't going to do anything (yet)

Plans change. The drivetrain will slip into the YJ pretty easy. If you are too busy, toss the XJ in the backyard.
(**** the neighbors)

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post #10 of 51 Old 09-02-2018, 07:58 PM Thread Starter
Ryan Piar
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Chrisnvegas View Post
I would strip the XJ even if you aren't going to do anything (yet)

Plans change. The drivetrain will slip into the YJ pretty easy. If you are too busy, toss the XJ in the backyard.
(**** the neighbors)

Im actually parting it out. It can sit where its at till the ground swallows it. I have no neighbors in sight. I would rather have the cash than the 4.0 driveline. This wont be a wheeling rig since I dont have that kind of time and well, sometimes depending on the time of year it's an adventure just getting home. The 4 banger should be ok. Not sure what else i could use from the XJ.


And yeah, I should just go ahead and beef it up. May as well.

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post #11 of 51 Old 09-02-2018, 09:32 PM
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I know what it's like living in what I call a beautifully inconvenient place. I'm from Colorado and lived at 9000' in the front range.
It was great and sucked depending.

I didn't think Kentucky was a rust belt area. Maybe the Jeep was from somewhere else.

Welcome back

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post #12 of 51 Old 09-03-2018, 05:00 AM
fishadventure
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ryan Piar View Post
a. Not sure what else i could use from the XJ.
The ebrake. And depending on the year, the AX15 is external slave clutch- that might be nice for you at some point

Where are you? Says Manchester but I’d bet the 48 states all have a Manchester...

As far as material thickness: since you can cut stuff plasma, 1/4” is thicker than oem by at least .125”. People have stated the oem frame is 3/16 but the couple of frames I’ve cut weren’t quite that thick, or didn’t appear that way, more like 5/32” (chrisnvegas probably has measure this LOL) and on my clean frame I’m using now when I cut it I’d swear it wasn’t thicker than 1/8!

Anyway, drivers side: if you run a long diagonal back past the shock tower area with 1/4 on the outside and keep the through-bolt pillars, 3/16 is prob enough on the inside. 3/16 is fine in the passenger side. Like I said, I think 3/16 is thicker than factory.

I’ve repaired most rusted frame areas on my ‘89 with 14ga overlaid and perimeter welded, and used 1/8 overlaid in the steering box area. Not recommended and I’m not recommending that, but the reality is they’ve lasted sorta well. The frame merely kept rusting and cracked multiple places past the rustouts LOL except for the steering box area. The welds didn’t fail at the steering box, but the 1/8” cracked right up the middle of the patches on the inside, and next to the rearmost bolt on the outside. So that area does take a beating.

[size=“3”]Shackles & D-rings are different things.
Cranking IS turning over
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post #13 of 51 Old 09-03-2018, 06:39 AM
Towny72
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+1 on the brown dog mounts.

Should have gotten a tetanus shot with this jeep!
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post #14 of 51 Old 09-03-2018, 08:28 AM
Mr.B
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fishadventure View Post

Where are you? Says Manchester but I’d bet the 48 states all have a Manchester...

It does say Manchester, KY on his posts, but not his profile. I didn't know you could do that.

But Ryan you need to fill out your Jeep Profile.

.
White '94 YJ 2.5L 5 speed, 35" BFGs KM2's, 5" lift, Mark VII 2 speed fan, Milemarker PE8000, Front Aussie Locker, Power steering conversion, '98 Cavalier seats, MORE Boomerangs in front, 136 amp ZJ alternator, JB conversions SYE, Tom Woods custom drive shaft, 8.8 with ARB, 4.88 gear ratio, Teralow


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Quote:
Originally Posted by Major Sanderson
You have no respect for excessive authority or obsolete traditions. You're dangerous and depraved, and you ought to be taken outside and shot!
Quote:
Originally Posted by Beefstew
I may have proven that I am in fact an idiot, by all of your standards...
Quote:
Originally Posted by ritjobbie View Post
Mr.B's post gets you as close to Buddha as you can get on JF...
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post #15 of 51 Old 09-03-2018, 09:01 AM Thread Starter
Ryan Piar
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Hmmm.....I thought I filled out my Jeep profile. I will check out that E-brake from the XJ. It IS an Ext slave AX-15. I just have too much on my plate to get deep into a toy project. I still have to swap cabs on my F350 crew. And finish my septic system, do road work, keep up with the dogs, the horse, the wife, the kids, and the shop. Im remembering now why I got out of jeeps lmao. But the more I get into this project the more I want to BUILD!! Ive got a JD2 M32 bender singing sweet nothings in my ear.

The frame on this YJ is definately 1/8". My "mic" said .128. I do have several sheets of 1/8", but I agree it's too thin. It looks like I may be able to just hack the whole section off and replace with some 2x4 box of 1/4".

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