Transmission Skid - JeepForum.com
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post #1 of 80 Old 02-28-2020, 09:28 PM Thread Starter
Louie4
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Transmission Skid

I need to replace my concave stock skid plate. Its between Barnes and UCF. I have to drill the Barnes but the UCF comes pre-drilled. Any thoughts? I dont mind drilling just need to make sure I mark them correctly.


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post #2 of 80 Old 02-28-2020, 09:33 PM
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oh baby am i sub`d!

love when threads pop up on an upcoming venture you plan to tackle in the near future.

Are you going flat across the frame rails or just one which adds more clearance

Stop whining about the 'ride' - If your YJ ain't wrangling your soul free, then might I suggest you buy a stationwagon... at least you can fit all your bull**** in the back.
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post #3 of 80 Old 02-28-2020, 09:44 PM Thread Starter
Louie4
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Going to get the 2 drop. Im not motivated enough to make a flat plate work.


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Lou

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post #4 of 80 Old 02-29-2020, 12:53 AM
paulhead
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Louie4 View Post
Going to get the 2 drop. Im not motivated enough to make a flat plate work.


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THats what I got, the 2" drop from barnes

Trying to weld has honed my grinding skills


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post #5 of 80 Old 02-29-2020, 07:40 AM Thread Starter
Louie4
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Was it easy enough to layout the holes and drill?


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Lou

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post #6 of 80 Old 02-29-2020, 09:31 AM
NHfireLJ
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Love my UCF 2" skid...

I'm running a GR universal trans cross member and therefore had a blank skid and then welded some stiffeners in it...

Might be a consideration... More work but you can drop thee skid for any reason and still have the drivetrain supported..
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post #7 of 80 Old 02-29-2020, 03:59 PM
jhrebs
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Im going to attempt 0 tummy tuck. Completely flat. I already have an 8.8, SYE, 1 body lift. I have the MML I need to install. I have all the bushing and parts to make my cross member. Just need to buy the plate. Couple questions.

1. Should I go to a 2 BL
2. Can I install the MML prior to any work and still drive normal.
3. Would I need to reweld my rear spring perches for my ds angle?


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post #8 of 80 Old 02-29-2020, 05:07 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jhrebs View Post
Im going to attempt 0 tummy tuck. Completely flat. I already have an 8.8, SYE, 1 body lift. I have the MML I need to install. I have all the bushing and parts to make my cross member. Just need to buy the plate. Couple questions.

1. Should I go to a 2 BL
2. Can I install the MML prior to any work and still drive normal.
3. Would I need to reweld my rear spring perches for my ds angle?


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1. your call. You can make the tummy tuck work easier with it. The outward appearance of your jeep is subjective. It's also generally agreed upon to not go over 1" BL. But many do without adverse effects.

2. Yes.

3. Most likely yes.

Stop whining about the 'ride' - If your YJ ain't wrangling your soul free, then might I suggest you buy a stationwagon... at least you can fit all your bull**** in the back.
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post #9 of 80 Old 02-29-2020, 05:27 PM
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I have a Zero tummy. Huge bennies imho. One of the best mods I’ve done.

I did it by making custom frame brackets to lift the motor; motor is 3* rake, nothing hangs below the frame not even exhaust. Motorcycle fork tube for a crossmember.

I wouldn’t bother with buying a MML. Some of the best solutions don’t come with part numbers.

I used “1-inch” body lift and wouldn’t go taller. I also had to clearance the floor support rail and cut a couple small unnecessary appendages off the tcase. Needed an SYE in my situation.

Go for it. It’s worth it.

[size=3]Shackles & D-rings are different things.
Cranking IS turning over
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post #10 of 80 Old 02-29-2020, 05:47 PM
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I went with UCF's aluminum engine and TC skid when I trimmed my YJ's tummy


..got them for my TJ too

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post #11 of 80 Old 02-29-2020, 05:58 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jhrebs View Post
Im going to attempt 0 tummy tuck. Completely flat. I already have an 8.8, SYE, 1 body lift. I have the MML I need to install. I have all the bushing and parts to make my cross member. Just need to buy the plate. Couple questions.

1. Should I go to a 2 BL
2. Can I install the MML prior to any work and still drive normal.
3. Would I need to reweld my rear spring perches for my ds angle?


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Agreed w some of the previous comments...

1" BL (or 1.25"
yes MML is helpful
most likely...

I'll say the same thing I said earlier too.... consider a universal trans cross member , More work but you can drop the skid for any reason and still have the drivetrain supported..

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post #12 of 80 Old 02-29-2020, 07:48 PM
jhrebs
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Quote:
Originally Posted by crackedcornish View Post
I went with UCF's aluminum engine and TC skid when I trimmed my YJ's tummy





..got them for my TJ too



What fenders do you have


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post #13 of 80 Old 02-29-2020, 07:50 PM
jhrebs
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NHfireLJ View Post
Agreed w some of the previous comments...



1" BL (or 1.25"

yes MML is helpful

most likely...



I'll say the same thing I said earlier too.... consider a universal trans cross member , More work but you can drop the skid for any reason and still have the drivetrain supported..


My skid will be independent of the trans mount/cross member.

Thanks everyone


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post #14 of 80 Old 02-29-2020, 07:55 PM
paulhead
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Louie4 View Post
Was it easy enough to layout the holes and drill?


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Yeah just dry mount it, figure out where the holes go. I made mine long to leave room for error. I also got the braces plus a 1" section of square tube.
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post #15 of 80 Old 02-29-2020, 07:58 PM
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Also I have a 1" body lift that saved my Roc Trac Tcase because the thing is bigger than a NP231 and barely cleared.

Trying to weld has honed my grinding skills


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