Tie rod flip help - JeepForum.com
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post #1 of 14 Old 04-22-2018, 12:35 PM Thread Starter
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Tie rod flip help

This may be a dumb question but I'm not seeing it covered by anyone, anywhere...

How do you account for the taper in the tie rod being the wrong direction for the steering stabilizer and drag link? Looks like everyone just installs theirs like it's a straight bolt and makes no mention of it.



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post #2 of 14 Old 04-22-2018, 12:44 PM
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You have to drill out the steering arm, then install a tapered insert like this http://www.goferitoffroad.com/products.htm

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post #3 of 14 Old 04-22-2018, 12:47 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Randonexplosion View Post
You have to drill out the steering arm, then install a tapered insert like this http://www.goferitoffroad.com/products.htm

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Steering arm has been drilled out already, tapered inserts installed, and the tie rod is flipped. However, the tie rod mounts for the drag link and steering stabilizer are also tapered meaning, I'd need 4 inserts and every kit comes with 2. This is where I'm confused.


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post #4 of 14 Old 04-22-2018, 02:08 PM
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Ruff Stuff also sells the tapered bushing. Personally don't think there's a need for a stabilizer if everything else in the steering system is in good working order.

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post #5 of 14 Old 04-22-2018, 03:53 PM Thread Starter
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Well guess I'm ordering 2 more tapered bushings. I don't understand how I seem to be the first person that has run into this. There are even a few youtube videos for YJ's and a bunch for XJ's. All of the videos appear to document the drilling and installation in both steering knuckles, show the 2 bushings for the job, and then the stock tie rod goes right back on and everything bolts up.


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post #6 of 14 Old 04-23-2018, 07:27 PM
silvertjsteve
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I haven't seen people flip the pitman arm, that would mess with your geometry. You want your track bar and drag link to be equal length and parallel. That is why there's only 2 in a kit.

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post #7 of 14 Old 04-23-2018, 07:36 PM Thread Starter
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Maybe I'm not explaining it right... that or everyone else has a different configuration on their jeep.

See the drag link and steering damper below. Now that the tie rod is on top, the shaft is 180° different from when it was on the bottom and the taper for both is wrong.

Do these pictures help explain that the steering damper and drag link can only go on the wrong side of the tie rod now?
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20180423_202826_resized.jpg   20180423_202834_resized.jpg   20180423_202936_resized.jpg   20180423_202921_resized.jpg  


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post #8 of 14 Old 04-24-2018, 01:31 PM
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Yeah, the pitman arm stays where it is.


You're right on needing one at least for the draglink to go into the tie rod. Maybe they don't include them because so many people go to a different tie rod set up and ditch the inverted y thing.


There's also no need for a track bar.
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post #9 of 14 Old 04-24-2018, 03:46 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by timatoe View Post
Yeah, the pitman arm stays where it is.


You're right on needing one at least for the draglink to go into the tie rod. Maybe they don't include them because so many people go to a different tie rod set up and ditch the inverted y thing.


There's also no need for a track bar.
Maybe that's it. The track bar was already gone and the track bar mount was cut off for the steering damper. I know you said the damper isn't really necessary earlier but this thing was bought new a couple months ago so figure I might as well keep using it while it's still good.
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post #10 of 14 Old 04-24-2018, 07:05 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Waternut
I don't understand how I seem to be the first person that has run into this. .
You are NOT!

When I called the supplier on mine I was told people just drill it out if needed, that the drag link didn't need to be tapered, and most people don't have a problem. (!) <---that I don't believe!

The other thing I was told was to loosen up my tie rod toe adjuster and just flip it over and retighten. Ok! What about the other end LOL!

That was a brand name company, too. Crazy!

Anyway, you don't need the damper. It came factory but steers nicer without it. Some with 33s or 35s say it does help off road with the long leverage of huge tires against side impacts, but I don't know.

Either way, it’s a lot cleaner without the clutter. Less is often more.
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post #11 of 14 Old 04-24-2018, 10:02 PM
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I used three inserts to flip mine.

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post #12 of 14 Old 04-25-2018, 08:53 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Waternut View Post
Maybe that's it. The track bar was already gone and the track bar mount was cut off for the steering damper. I know you said the damper isn't really necessary earlier but this thing was bought new a couple months ago so figure I might as well keep using it while it's still good.
One other option is to get (borrow or buy) a reamer, which is what I did when I did the 1 ton flip. Reamer may cost a bit more but you'd have one in your tool bag.

It's been many, many moons ago, so I can laugh about this now...

But I got the JCR 1 ton kit and immediately went to work reaming out my knuckles to get the job done. I was purdy easy b/c I just left the knuckles on the Jeep and reamed from the top. Since the drag was shorter and lighter/easier to handle... I would grab that and check my taper depth on the knuckles. Got all done both sides and I was all happy and excited. Until I picked up the tie rod to install and both ends fell right thru my reamed holes and bottomed out! WTF??
Turns out the DL end had a different smaller diameter than the TRE's. Who'd a thunk!? Had to buy new knuckles! Oh well, live and learn!

Also, with the 1 ton kit you need to ream the pitman, too.

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post #13 of 14 Old 04-25-2018, 01:18 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RockWoRM
One other option is to get (borrow or buy) a reamer, which is what I did when I did the 1 ton flip. Reamer may cost a bit more but you'd have one in your tool bag. It's been many, many moons ago, so I can laugh about this now... But I got the JCR 1 ton kit and immediately went to work reaming out my knuckles to get the job done. I was purdy easy b/c I just left the knuckles on the Jeep and reamed from the top. Since the drag was shorter and lighter/easier to handle... I would grab that and check my taper depth on the knuckles. Got all done both sides and I was all happy and excited. Until I picked up the tie rod to install and both ends fell right thru my reamed holes and bottomed out! WTF?? Turns out the DL end had a different smaller diameter than the TRE's. Who'd a thunk!? Had to buy new knuckles! Oh well, live and learn! Also, with the 1 ton kit you need to ream the pitman, too.
That and you only get to re-ream a previously tapered hole from its opposite side about 48% or so unless the tapered shaft is bigger at the small end than the original hole was on the big side.

In the future I wouldn't go for the Nutski solid inserts. Especially after my inquiry. Crazy answers.

Rather, I would buy and install the slit models, 'notch' the top edge 180 degrees from the slit, nick the knuckle an 1/8" with a drill, and spot weld one hot berry into the hole and notch: that you've got total mechanical resistance from spinning- and wearing. Some will say that's overkill, but.... it's removable, and you get the TRE and drag link wedging action to boot.

[size=“3”]Shackles & D-rings are different things.
Cranking IS turning over
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post #14 of 14 Old 04-25-2018, 04:26 PM
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Yes, and IIRC the 1 ton ends are the same size as the hole you have to drill for the inserts. So it's about a push.

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