Hey all,

I wanted to share my experiences with doing a tie rod flip using the goferit inserts on a 2.5" OME lift. Install wasn't terribly difficult but I did run into a snag or two on the way. I got 3 of the inserts awhile back and they were sitting in the garage for awhile. By the time I got around to doing it I had Rusty's Steering set-up and hadn't needed the 3rd insert, which actually worked out in the end because it turns out I needed it. Prior to the tie-rod flip my drag link angle was at about 8 degrees and afterwards it was at about 3.3 degrees or so. You can see in the pictures where my tie rod would rub on the diff cover at full lock before.

The biggest snag was that my drag link in the stock position on the pitman arm was at a negative angle after getting the YJ off the jacks. I looked up solutions like other pitman arms with less of a drop, etc. This is where the 3rd goferit insert came in handy. I used it on the pitman arm and mounted the drag link on top. I thought I'd have to trim the frame-side track bracket, but it clears it just fine with maybe an inch to spare. I did have to cut off the axle-side track bracket though.

While I had the front-end apart, I had some 2 degree shims that I've been meaning to try so those went on as well which brought my caster to about 7.8 degrees. Checked my toe-in and it was a bit excessive so I dialed it back to about an 1/8.

In comparison, it drives much nicer now on the roads and the freeways. I've purposely sought out bumps that always felt sketchy to me but now it tracks straight and predictable. Bump steer in the end is negligible. Whereas before I would have to correct the steering all the time after every bump because it felt like it would wander a bit. Now it tracks pretty straight and as my better half says, feels much safer.

https://imgur.com/a/BWCbrI7

Nice write up. I have a 2.5” OME kit on the way. Being an ex auto tech and previous 78F150 and Samurai on 38” TSL bump steer survivor - I am very concerned with castor geometry. I am tempted to add 2 deg shims from the start.
The Goferit kit looks like a simple solution for improved angles and feed back. I was looking at that kit 10 years ago for a Sidekick 4dr on 34 LTB swampers steering correction.

click free

I might trim those U-bolts a bit...

You flipped it so it is harder to hit, then added a huge shock below it. You don't need the shock if the joints in the steering and knuckles are good.

That's true.

I was thinking about that, about how much thread should I leave behind?


Thanks for the input, I didn't know you could drive without one. Joints and knuckles look pretty good still so I'll give it a shot and see how it rides.

If it was me, I'd re-torque them and cut them flush. U nuts are long on purpose and there is plenty of thread to hold. A cut off wheel works well. Or if you're macho and have Popeye arms, use a hack saw.