Swapping 2.5L Axles to a 4.0L - JeepForum.com
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post #1 of 5 Old 03-27-2020, 11:23 AM Thread Starter
ADunk670
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Swapping 2.5L Axles to a 4.0L

Hi all,

I am eyeing up a Dana 30 and 35 off of a 2.5L with 4.10s to swap onto my 4.0L.

First off, I know 4.10 is not the perfect gearing for my 33s but it sure beats the 3.07s that are in the current Dana 30 and 35.

I plan on blasting the axles and repainting them but what else should I look into replacing while the axles are out of the Jeep? The Jeep is not a primary vehicle, I do not off road it hard, and I am just looking for a quick and cheaper way to have better gearing without a full re-gear.

Thanks in advance!


1994 YJ SE

South Jersey
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post #2 of 5 Old 03-27-2020, 12:02 PM
Waternut
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You've found the cheapest and easiest way to change gears and 4.10s are pretty good with a 4.0 and 33's. Everything should bolt right up but you may need to change fluids and maybe swap your good calipers/pads over.
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post #3 of 5 Old 03-27-2020, 01:24 PM
fishadventure
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Seconded. I’m 4.10s D30 and 8.8 on 32s and it’s perfect as a DD and is fine on the trails. I often run sections in Lo range and second gear, 3rd occasionally. 1st for the creepy stuff.
Avid rock crawlers would probably want 4.88s but for what you describe it’s great.

Keep an eye out for a 4.10 8.8 and the the D35 can be swapped before you have to change. Although many say if you don’t chirp/bounce it the D35 is fine for 33s ymmv

[size=3]Shackles & D-rings are different things.
Cranking IS turning over
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post #4 of 5 Old 03-28-2020, 09:49 AM Thread Starter
ADunk670
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Thanks all, I will keep you posted. I have a few leads on a few different offers. I am also redoing my lift later in the spring so all new u-bolts etc.

Thanks for the advice!

1994 YJ SE

South Jersey
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post #5 of 5 Old 03-29-2020, 09:30 AM
Joe Dillard
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Thoroughly inspect the ball joints, unit bearings, steering components, ujoints, and yokes too.

Spin the axles and listen for grinding, popping or odd noises. Look for warpage as you turn them - especially the rear. If possible, pop the covers open & look at the side, spider gears and R&P for chips, and look to see if the diff oil is chocolate in color (water/mud intrusion) etc or possibly burnt smell. Look for leaks at the pinion seal/yoke areas.

For the front axle specifically, look to see if the axle seals are good by inspecting the area where the axles exit the tubes.

Check to see if the breathers are still intact & working.

Check to see if the CAD (central axle disconnect) is still hooked up & working & compatible with your current set-up.

It's possible your rear yoke ujoint size is not the same as the one for sale. Check cross-width measurements across the rear ujoint to see if they match yours.

If the rear axle is leaking where the tubes enter the center section - it's most likely junk & bent or spun.

I can think of a few more items I'd check, but this is a decent start.
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