Stock 18" jk wheels on 92 yj - JeepForum.com
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post #1 of 16 Old 07-24-2021, 06:34 PM Thread Starter
jeepercreeper92
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Stock 18" jk wheels on 92 yj

I have a set of 18" stock jk wheels I want to but on my yj. I've ordered 1 1/2"adapters/ spacers for the install. Just wondering if anyone else has done this and what does it look like. I'm trying to get a feel of what they will look like,if they will rub,and if the will tuck or untuck any. Any one with advise,I'd love to hear some(and pics).

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post #2 of 16 Old 07-24-2021, 07:30 PM
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THings like this are subjective.

I think they wouldn't look good at all... but that's me.

I'd be more concerned with the tire sizes... 16", 18" seem to be on the down and down... than the vanity (though like i said, unless you have a massively stretched out lifted and monster of a YJ... that 18" wheel don't look right at all)

Again, it's subjective.

There is also the factor of more wheel, less rubber sidewall. It's a leaf sprung YJ, short wheel base. It certainly wouldn't assist with softening up your ride. The load rating scale gets thrown off being another issue.

Below are some random examples... unsure the size on the YJ, but 18" on the TJ doesn't even look right.
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post #3 of 16 Old 07-24-2021, 09:24 PM
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Subjectively speaking, unless you're running a 44" competition tire, an 18" wheel isn't going to look right. 15" wheels look best for most street-stock Jeeps. There's a couple of guys here that run 16" and 17" wheels that look good, but they are also running huge tires.

More sidewall = better ride, better offroad traction, better control on-road - up to a point.

Less sidewall = harsher ride, more susceptible to tire damage, easier to lose traction on dry asphalt, let alone wet surfaces.
That last point is one of contention. The low-profile tires SEEM to handle better because you get a quicker steering response, but the tire is much stiffer and can't respond to changes in the road surface nearly as well.

And to be fair, the stock JK wheels look too big on a JK as well.

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post #4 of 16 Old 07-28-2021, 07:07 AM
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I’d sell them. Decent 15” stealies are about $75/each. You will probably get enough out of the 18” for all 5 new wheels and maybe 2 of the 5 new tires.

Then you can have good performance and good looking stance without a hard ride and awkward-looking treads.

[size=“3”]Shackles & D-rings are different things.
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post #5 of 16 Old 07-28-2021, 08:53 AM
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37" tires or larger wouldn't be bad but any tire smaller than that will ride like crap especially on a leaf sprung vehicle. It will also look like a wanna be mall crawler. It's your vehicle so if that's what you want, then so be it. Right or wrong, I'm less inclined to approach someone with big street wheels and low profile tires on a Jeep at a local Jeep club meeting because there is almost no chance they will ever want to wheel with me even when invited.

That said, IMO 16" and 18" wheels are kind of the red headed step child of offroad wheels. The two most popular wheels choices for offroad vehicles are still 15" and 17" and the tire choices are considerably greater. The 17" is more reserved for 37"+ tire sizes though. 20" wheels are making their way into the offroad world on tires 42" and up but even on a 42" tire, I think the 20's look goofy.


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post #6 of 16 Old 07-28-2021, 07:40 PM
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I will say that I despise the rear disc brakes on the Ford 8.8 swap and have been looking at many other options and weighing it all out. Guys go though booster and master cyl mods, etc. to help the braking of their Jeep. Lots of different upgrades out there and they really do work. Losing sidewall height can be a plus or a minus depending on tire size as has been stated. I will say the 17 vs 15 inch wheels greatly increases the rotor and caliper size that will fit on a vehicle and bigger rotor and caliper diameters help braking exponentially.

I would not diss on anybody who went to a bigger rim dimension to gain braking.

I hate the look of rubber bands for tires. The more sidewall, the better the look but if better braking is the compromise, it may be worth some sacrifice.

If you just want to have mall crawler looks or a teeth jarring ride and honesly compromise your offroading experience. Go with the bigger wheels everyday.

If you cannot fix it with a hammer then it has to be an electrical problem.
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post #7 of 16 Old 07-29-2021, 12:55 AM
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JK 17" rims and stock 32" tires on my YJ. They look good enough and were bigger tires than my stock YJ ones for an amazing deal. Tire tread sucks off the road.

1.25" adapters for 5x4.5 to 5x5, nothing imploded yet. I did need to put in longer studs to get all the threads into the lug nuts. But I recall reading as long as you get 7 full threads you get ~100% of the friction compared to more, but it's better to have more hence the longer studs I put in. Otherwise loctite, like I did until you replace them
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post #8 of 16 Old 07-29-2021, 02:55 AM
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I have 18" JK wheels on my YJ , Maxxis 275/65 R18.
With 3"lift .
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post #9 of 16 Old 07-29-2021, 04:13 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by xpage View Post
I did need to put in longer studs to get all the threads into the lug nuts. But I recall reading as long as you get 7 full threads you get ~100% of the friction compared to more, but it's better to have more hence the longer studs I put in. Otherwise loctite, like I did until you replace them
There’s more to it than that; loctite may stop them from loosening. However, loctite doesn’t complete the mechanical clamping aspect of the psi ‘per thread’ that is required. Wheel studs and nuts must provide secure predictable clamping force to avoid dynamic loading and unloading potential especially with aluminum wheels. When the psi load on the inclined plane of the threads is high (short thread contact) the threads ‘work’ and may stretch. If you’re lucky the threads can deflect or break, if you’re not lucky the clamping force goes to zero dynamic loads can break the stud. Lug nuts are deeper than standard nuts for this reason: enough, plus enough more to exceed any possibility of dynamic cycling of the stud.

Too much picky-uney information I know but after my year at the utility trailer place all these pick-uney engineering things demonstrated themselves in real life and I got a whole new respect for lug nuts. I’ve never really done anything stupid but a surprising number of people hauling excavators and lawn mowers do stupid things fairly often. (lug nuts on backwards on a race car trailer was my favorite. He built his own stock car, but yet…)
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[size=“3”]Shackles & D-rings are different things.
Cranking IS turning over
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post #10 of 16 Old 07-29-2021, 05:28 AM
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I have 37s on 17s. I have 17s because I needed them for my much bigger brakes. I did the WJ knucke swap so I could fit the dual piston calipers. I am with BooJoo if I did my 8.8 again I would go drums. Its been a pain getting the exploder and now F-150 brakings working right. I have also done the booster and Master thing.

Anyway. JK wheels can look fine on a YJ but unless your 35s or more 18 inch wheels will not leave much sidewall making it look quite funny.
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post #11 of 16 Old 07-29-2021, 05:40 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Siva283 View Post
I have 37s on 17s… Its been a pain getting the exploder and now F-150 brakings working right. I have also done the booster and Master .
Do you think this is due to the leverage of big tires?
When I did the 8.8 I was prepared to have to jump through hoops for the brakes because of this commonly discussed issue. However, I did nothing to make the brakes good- they were fine right out of the gate.
(Nevertheless, when towing ~2000# they don’t feel as good as they did with the D35 and 235s. (On 33s now) so I picked up a core/carcass of an 8.8 with drum backing plates and such from a forum member in Connecticut because of the useless parking brake operation. Haven’t done the swap yet)

My evaluation is that the backing plates and drums are a direct swap. The parts are available new as well.

[size=“3”]Shackles & D-rings are different things.
Cranking IS turning over
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post #12 of 16 Old 07-29-2021, 01:08 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fishadventure View Post
Do you think this is due to the leverage of big tires?
When I did the 8.8 I was prepared to have to jump through hoops for the brakes because of this commonly discussed issue. However, I did nothing to make the brakes good- they were fine right out of the gate.
(Nevertheless, when towing ~2000# they don’t feel as good as they did with the D35 and 235s. (On 33s now) so I picked up a core/carcass of an 8.8 with drum backing plates and such from a forum member in Connecticut because of the useless parking brake operation. Haven’t done the swap yet)

My evaluation is that the backing plates and drums are a direct swap. The parts are available new as well.
The drums are actually for a consistent parking brake. I can get mine to hold 37s but I have to constantly adjust it. Thats my soul reason for drums. I only upgraded the rear to F-150 calipers because I was anticipating towing sometimes. And occasioanly my trailer is at the upper limits of the tow rating. However when I went to 37s I did notice a big difference and I think its a mix of the extra leverage and weight of the bigger tires.

I know this is Jeep Blasphamey but I actually plan to drop down to 35s when these wear out. My wheeling style has changed from back injuries getting worse and what I do just doesnt warrant 37s.
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post #13 of 16 Old 07-29-2021, 09:41 PM
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17" rims - 35" tires

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post #14 of 16 Old 08-05-2021, 02:43 PM
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I'm running 16in TJ wheels with 32 in Tires, No need for adapters.
Plenty of sidewall and works well... never have had a problem.
Got a great deal on the set of 5.

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post #15 of 16 Old 08-22-2021, 02:53 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks for all the advice. I put the 18s on and did not like that the lug nuts on the spacers only covered 6 threads. So I put my 15" steelies back on. Here's what the spacer and wheels looked like.Thanks again
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