Stalled out & won’t start 100 miles after new fuel assembly - JeepForum.com
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post #1 of 68 Old 07-17-2021, 10:53 AM Thread Starter
YMFriday
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Stalled out & won’t start 100 miles after new fuel assembly

I replaced the entire fuel delivery assembly about 3 weeks & almost exactly 100 miles ago. It’s been running just fine. Left from my kid’s hockey practice & it stalled out without warning. Will turn over but not start. Exactly the same as before. Any thoughts?

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post #2 of 68 Old 07-17-2021, 11:03 AM
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Do you have fuel pressure and/or spark?
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post #3 of 68 Old 07-17-2021, 11:14 AM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by 93YJ4FUN View Post
Do you have fuel pressure and/or spark?
Some starting fluid got it to fire, but stalled again within 5 seconds, so I’d imaging spark is there. I have everything to tune it up, which I’ll do as soon as the tow truck drops it off, so that should answer that, hopefully.
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post #4 of 68 Old 07-17-2021, 11:32 AM
93YJ4FUN
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I would check if you have fuel pressure and work from there. It could be a ground issue at the tank. It could be that your new fuel pump died. But knowing if you have fuel pressure would be first thing.
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post #5 of 68 Old 07-17-2021, 12:05 PM
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Start with what was replaced... Could be bad ground/power, bad pump, hose fell off inside the tank, etc. Quick and dirty method is turn the key on and listen for the fuel pump. It will only run for about 1 second if the engine isn't running though. If you hear nothing when you turn the key, you know the pump isn't working.


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post #6 of 68 Old 07-17-2021, 12:49 PM
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I had issues with the plug from the fuel pump where the tank is. It would just randomly not want to start and I would fiddle with the plug and it would fire right up. I sprayed some electric cleaner on both ends of the plug and it was worked fine since. I think the connection had a little corrosion on it.
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post #7 of 68 Old 07-17-2021, 02:32 PM Thread Starter
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I had issues with the plug from the fuel pump where the tank is. It would just randomly not want to start and I would fiddle with the plug and it would fire right up. I sprayed some electric cleaner on both ends of the plug and it was worked fine since. I think the connection had a little corrosion on it.
We’re you able to get to it without dropping the tank? At least when the pump died it acted like it was running out of gas for a mile or so. This one today was no warning, just stalled during a turn. After I got the new pump in, I tried to listen for it kick on and I never heard it, but my hearing sucks and it started every time. Sometimes when the engine was warm it would crank a little long & need a tap on the accelerator, but that’s why I was going to give it a tune up. When cold, it would start up no problem.
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post #8 of 68 Old 07-17-2021, 04:59 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Waternut View Post
Start with what was replaced... Could be bad ground/power, bad pump, hose fell off inside the tank, etc. Quick and dirty method is turn the key on and listen for the fuel pump. It will only run for about 1 second if the engine isn't running though. If you hear nothing when you turn the key, you know the pump isn't working.
I had my 9 year old turn the key while I was by the tank. It primed, so that’s not my issue. I was not looking forward to dropping tank again, especially since I still have almost 3/4 of a tank.
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post #9 of 68 Old 07-17-2021, 09:28 PM
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It primed, but do you have pressure at the rail?

Just verifying as people use different terminology to explain common things.

Did you hear the pump start and test pressure? Or just hear the pump and assume it's ok?
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post #10 of 68 Old 07-17-2021, 09:54 PM Thread Starter
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Just heard it prime. Fuel pressure test kit will arrive Monday. Local auto parts store didn't have a rental, just one to buy for twice the cost. I didn't think about Harbor Freight until after I ordered. While I'm waiting I'm tuning it up and found the distributor is a mess. Cap, rotor, & wires look almost new, but the distributor itself is rusty. Someone snapped off a screw, so the back side of the cap was attached by zip tie. Nothing local that will get it in-store faster than Quadratec will get it to me, so trouble shooting will likely be put on hold until the new distributor arrives. I've never encountered this before in any car I've owned. Even searching the forums didn't turn up anything in the first few pages that I saw.
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post #11 of 68 Old 07-17-2021, 10:13 PM
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The fuel rail should have what looks like a tire inflation valve (schrader valve) that you can push the little middle pin and if fuel squirts out you have pressure. Just make sure you are using eye protection and aren't smoking lol.
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post #12 of 68 Old 07-17-2021, 10:18 PM Thread Starter
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Will this be only while it's cranking? I've read that the YJs don't stay pressurized once they're turned off.
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post #13 of 68 Old 07-17-2021, 10:36 PM
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Originally Posted by YMFriday View Post
Will this be only while it's cranking? I've read that the YJs don't stay pressurized once they're turned off.
The fuel rail should be able to hold pressure for several hours. You can also disconnect the supply line on the fuel rail and just squirt it into an empty bottle. Takes an extra step but probably safer than spraying high pressure fuel all over the engine bay a few times while verifying fuel pressure in the rail.

I think the confusion with the above statements is that you say you can hear the fuel pump prime. That would imply you can hear a line pressurize but in reality, I'm guessing you are just hearing the pump running which is not the same thing. Not trying to throw stones at you but trying to clarify what you mean so we're all speaking the same language.


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post #14 of 68 Old 07-18-2021, 06:15 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by YMFriday View Post
Were you able to get to it without dropping the tank? At least when the pump died it acted like it was running out of gas for a mile or so. This one today was no warning, just stalled during a turn. After I got the new pump in, I tried to listen for it kick on and I never heard it, but my hearing sucks and it started every time. Sometimes when the engine was warm it would crank a little long & need a tap on the accelerator, but thats why I was going to give it a tune up. When cold, it would start up no problem.
Yes, the plug is on the drivers side and I could reach it without much effort. Before I sprayed it with cleaner I had to just mash it together with my fingers and it would start. I did have it stall going up I-75 one day and thankfully I was in the far right lane so I just coasted to a stop on the shoulder but it was a little nerve racking to crawl under the Jeep on the side of the interstate. Right after that was when I used the electric cleaner and its not been an issue since.
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post #15 of 68 Old 07-18-2021, 09:53 AM
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haven't seen the fuel pressure regulator mentioned here. Was this one of the components looked at when you did all the fuel system work?

Might be worth the 5 minutes to pinch off your fuel return line with some small vice grips and start the jeep and see what happens. It's free. Don't let it run too long at all, just see if it runs.

If it stays running ...FPR is in need of a replacement.

~YJOTM MAY '16, JULY '19~


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