Share your tips to quiet your soft top - Page 2 - JeepForum.com
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post #16 of 28 Old 07-10-2010, 07:56 AM Thread Starter
Jeremy93yj
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I like this idea! Great looking jeep too.

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post #17 of 28 Old 07-10-2010, 09:27 AM
HGHSPEED
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Seen some very creative ideas here, some I may have to try. For now I just retighten the straps as my top stretchs, works for me. Good luck.
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post #18 of 28 Old 07-11-2010, 01:46 AM
wickedoffroad
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ImpactFabWorks View Post
yes he would. I used threaded rivets so that I could remove the header rail when I get my hard top
Threaded rivets... aren't those called screws lol
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post #19 of 28 Old 07-11-2010, 02:03 AM
ImpactFabWorks
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wickedoffroad View Post
Threaded rivets... aren't those called screws lol
a threaded rivet is like a nutsert. so the the rivet is threaded female. then you just use regular bolts

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post #20 of 28 Old 07-11-2010, 06:58 AM Thread Starter
Jeremy93yj
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ImpactFabWorks View Post
a threaded rivet is like a nutsert. so the the rivet is threaded female. then you just use regular bolts
Exactly. There is a kit specifically for the windshield channel, but it's around $60. Thus, I used $.50 worth of rivets and called it a day.
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post #21 of 28 Old 07-11-2010, 11:01 AM
ImpactFabWorks
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jeremy93yj View Post
Exactly. There is a kit specifically for the windshield channel, but it's around $60. Thus, I used $.50 worth of rivets and called it a day.
you can piece together the kit for a lot less. I already had a rivet gun and my work sends out the threaded rivets in one of their kits, so I get them there for freeeeeeeee

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post #22 of 28 Old 07-11-2010, 11:24 AM
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^^ I'd be really happy if you got me some for free! ^^

I had some cracked vertical windshield channels that were broken right where the supports attach on that stud to make the top of the doorway. I bought new from Quadratec and installed them along with new retaining locks. That made a whale of a difference! So then I got to looking at the setup and I realized that the channels were slotted at the screw holes unlike the factory ones that came on my heep. I loosened all the screws again and slid them down all the way. This lowers the top of the doorway making the jam fit better with my soft upper doors. It also allows the top above the front seats to pull tighter, reducing the noise. New insulation on the bows will come next...

Buuuuut I'm sure you all knew that. I'm new to the wrangler world, yall. Keep em coming.

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post #23 of 28 Old 11-10-2018, 10:29 AM
jvahey
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I can now carry on a conversation, make a cell phone call, and listen to music at a reasonable volume in my '99 TJ with the soft top. How did I arrive here?

Added three things:

1. Hothead Headliners Soft Top Headliner. ($229)

2. Skid Row Offroad Top Prop ($52)

3. Supreme Fiber Fill - two bags from Michael's craft store ($12)

After installing the brackets for the Top Prop, which clamp to the roll bars on either side, follow the directions to install the Hothead Headliner - it's all velcro strap attachment, with one velcro strip at the windshield header bar. Roll the fiber filling out on top of the headliner, so it fills the space between the headliner and the soft top. You don't need a lot, one layer is enough. I set the Top Prop up beneath the headliner - no need for filler above the prop, it is a close fit there. You end up with the top prop at the lowest layer, the headliner, the filling, and then the soft top. When you're done, latch down your soft top. Amazing difference in the ambient sound level, and there's no more flapping of the soft top due to the fiber fill.

This is a variation of some of the suggestions made here, and owes a lot to those who have posted before. I'm really happy with it and I hope this helps someone out.
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post #24 of 28 Old 11-10-2018, 11:09 AM
gutthans
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Only shot I have of one of my soft-top mods. Note the 'alligator back' profile on the roofline. Two standard wooden yardsticks, notched on the trailing end to 'catch' a 10/32 bolt in the roll bar while the flat leading end rests against the visor mount on the windshield. This creates a slight bowing-up and the two make the 'alligator' profile. Keeps the top taut, eliminates 'pooling', and drains most of the water to the front or rear instead of down the side of the doors.
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post #25 of 28 Old 11-10-2018, 01:43 PM
blynyrd66
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When I bought the new Pavement Ends factory style replacement soft top for my YJ it was way too loose, rain puddled and it flapped a lot. To cure that I made the tensioner bars, the folding bar that attaches to the mid and rear top bows, adjustable.

I used some 3/8" all thread and (4) 3/8" nuts. I cut the rear most ends off about 2-1/2" from the end, slid the all thread in the long section and trimmed it to so the spreader bar pieces fit over it at its stock length. Then I screwed 2 nuts on each piece of the all thread slipped the cut off short ends back on and adjusted the nuts so the ends were as close as possible. After that just re-attach the tensioners, put the top up and adjust the nut to tighten the top. Once it had the desired tension I tightened the second nut to the first to lock it in place. Works like a charm and cost less than $5.00.
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post #26 of 28 Old 11-11-2018, 08:31 AM
KfoySTL
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ImpactFabWorks View Post
yes he would. I used threaded rivets so that I could remove the header rail when I get my hard top
I don't have a hardtop but want one for next year, quicker if a top/full door combo comes up sooner. My 95's soft top channel has about half of the screws gone and the holes are rusted/enlarged/etc. I know once I start messing with it, I'm going to find all sorts of rust problems and I'd like to fix it once correctly.

I've never looked at how a hardtop works and don't want to fix it in a way that will need to be undone when I get the hardtop.

Anyone have an explanation or maybe some pics? Sorry if I'm hijacking the thread--trying to quiet the 95 down started all of this mess....
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post #27 of 28 Old 11-11-2018, 10:02 AM
mark1305
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My aftermarket full soft top (OEM style) isn't bad but the bikini top is a flapper. I made a single fore & aft PVC bow to push it up then a retired military guy at one of my yard sales told me to go side to side with a PVC bow. It makes good sense. Got the pieces, but like so much stuff it's still on the to-do list.
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post #28 of 28 Old 11-12-2018, 08:04 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ssyj94 View Post
I got some foam pipe insulation from home depot and wrapped every bow and bar of my supertop. It quieted down a decent amount and reduced the side window flap.
Can confirm - this made a huge difference when I was still running a soft top with a frame. Quieted it down a LOT.

I also had an idea to build a top prop like the PVC and pool noodle one that was posted, but at the time I couldn't think of a good way to attach it. Using half of a T is a brilliant idea.

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