Rusted Steering Stops - JeepForum.com
 
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post #1 of 5 Old 04-27-2015, 11:07 AM Thread Starter
timh141
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Rusted Steering Stops

Just had new tires installed on my 1994 Wrangler. It has the Gambler style OEM wheels which are 15x8 with 5.5 inch back spacing. For the YJ, I believe these wheels were included as part of the Renegade package. And, from the factory, they were wrapped with 30x15x9.50 tires. The tires I chose are the Cooper Discoverer STT 31x15x10.50.

When they were first installed they rubbed at the back on the leaf springs on both sides. In other words, during a sharp left turn, the driver's side tire would rub on the spring where the spring pack clamp was positioned. And a sharp right would cause rubbing on the passenger side. This was expected, and I read about the various remedies which included wheel spacers, washers behind the steering stops and rims with different backspacing.

Determined to use these wheels, I decided to go the "washers behind the steering stop route". Expecting this to be easy, I bought some washers then tried to remove the steering stops. One of them came out with PB Blaster, I twisted the bolt head off, but then using a wrench on the welded nut, we were able to get it out.

The second one wasn't that easy. Again, the bolt head broke off fairly early in the process...then the weld on the nut broke. The nut would spin, but I couldn't get it to come off. Using a small grinder chucked in my drill, I was able to remove the nut leaving just a stud. After that, we tried pretty much every trick. Pounding on it with a hammer, PB Blaster, heat from a propane source (so perhaps it wasn't enough heat), heat and wax, locking pliers, stud extractor....I bought a $40 set of stud extractor sockets and immediately broke one of them. I'm not sure why this happened, but I think it got held up on the broken weld.

Long story short, I ended up drilling it out. I started by cutting off what was left of the stud with a sawzall. I used a punch to center the first drill bit, and then, using four progressively larger bits, proceeded to drill out the stud. The largest was 21/64 which was recommended for the 3/8 by 24 tap. Then I chased the threads using the 3/8 by 24 tap. I was concerned that I would drill past the stud into the surrounding metal, but this didn't seem to happen. During the drilling process, with the third bit, it seemed to be favoring one side, so I pushed on the drill, trying to "move the hole" over. Wearing eye protection, I also used a hammer and small chisel (which looked a lot like one of my screwdrivers) to cut/bend part of the the thin remaining edge of the stud, before resuming with the drill. Finally, replaced the original steering stops with grade 8 hardware and put some blue (strength) thread lock on them.

Now I have adjustable stops. During the adjustment, I was working alone, so I set the parking brake (which also needs some attention), but then chocked the wheels forward and back as well. A strap tied to the steering wheel was used to pull it all the way to lock. This allowed me to see what the clearance between the tire and leaf spring was while lying on the ground, pulling the strap. Even at that, I could hear/feel one of the tires rubbing while test driving it, but since the stops are adjustable, it was easy to correct this.

I'm going to drive it a few days, visually checking the bolts so I'm confident they aren't coming loose, but I don't know why they would.

Next step is to get a little more clearance. I'm thinking 2 or 3 inches should do it. Considering a 1 inch body lift, combined with either shackles or changing the springs.

Attached Thumbnails
tire (2).jpg   strap (2).jpg   WP_20150425_19_07_39_Pro.jpg   strap (1).jpg   threadlock.jpg  

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Last edited by timh141; 04-27-2015 at 11:23 AM. Reason: text
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post #2 of 5 Old 04-27-2015, 12:22 PM
Anticanman
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Good work.

At this point I should point out that soaking in a penetrating solution of ATF and acetone overnight will do wonders the next morning.




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post #3 of 5 Old 04-27-2015, 12:36 PM Thread Starter
timh141
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Thanks, I read about that but didn't try it. I remember being skeptical that it would work better than PB, but a lot of people swear by it. A 50/50 solution of ATF and acetone i believe is what is recommended. Have the ATF but need to get some acetone. I'll definitely try this on the next stuck bolt.
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post #4 of 5 Old 04-27-2015, 12:50 PM
Anticanman
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Quote:
Originally Posted by timh141 View Post
Thanks, I read about that but didn't try it. I remember being skeptical that it would work better than PB, but a lot of people swear by it. A 50/50 solution of ATF and acetone i believe is what is recommended. Have the ATF but need to get some acetone. I'll definitely try this on the next stuck bolt.
There's a nice video on it by ChrisFix on YouTube. I'm mixing some up for the tractors this week.

Glad your hard work paid off though. It's nice to see that no matter what befalls you in your wrenching, you still took the time to finish the job correctly instead of going halfway and calling it done.




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post #5 of 5 Old 04-27-2015, 08:36 PM
cojab
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I put a bit of brake fluid in mine as well. Apply it with an oil squirt can and let soak. It works great.
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rubbing , rusted bolts , steering alignment , stop , stuck

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