Possible new carb? - JeepForum.com
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post #1 of 24 Old 01-16-2020, 04:01 PM Thread Starter
dclifto
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Possible new carb?

My 4.2 has an aftermarket carburetor...no clue what kind. I'm getting a lag and lurching when I accelerate as well as a lingering gas smell when it's in the garage. Mechanic says there's a leak that's causing it but he's not sure if it's just the gasket or something internal on the carb. If there's a problem with the carb do you guys recommend a rebuild (not knowing anything about what's on there now) or a new carb all together? If new, what brands do you recommend?

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post #2 of 24 Old 01-16-2020, 05:43 PM
mike134
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I recommend getting up to 50 posts on the forum, that will unlock the ability to post photos. Then post a photo of the carb and I’m positive someone will be able to quickly identify it.

The rebuild vs. replace will depend on the quality/suitability. Original carb may be due for replacement along with what’s called the “butter bypass” if your locaL emissions laws allow and if it’s not done already. It involves removing the out of date emissions hardware which won’t be functioning well at this age.

How long has this been happening?

When was the last time you replaced the spark plugs, rotor, cap, ignition coil, plug wires?
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post #3 of 24 Old 01-16-2020, 06:07 PM
Boojo35
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I agree with the above that part of your issue can be an ignition problem.

One other thing that comes to mind is a bad diaphragm in the fuel pump. It can starve the carb for fuel and only produce power on fuel pump strokes. They have a small vent hole on the side of mechanical fuel pumps so they can create a gas smell when the diaphragm goes bad.

You could also have a cracked or rusted fuel line making your pump suck air.

Lots of possibilities.

You need to do a more thorough diagnosis if you don't want to be the guy that throws part after part at it and still has issues.

Some modern day mechanics don't know squat about carburetors. If you are unable to diagnose it yourself I suggest that you seek out another mechanic. A fuel smell should not be that hard to isolate and he should have a good idea by experience if the vehicle has a fuel delivery issue or an ignition issue just by how it acts.

http://gleebledorf.com/

Here is a great link on what your Jeep should have but there is no telling if it has been modded or not.

You have come to the right place.

If you cannot fix it with a hammer then it has to be an electrical problem.
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post #4 of 24 Old 01-16-2020, 08:44 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks guys. I just bought the Jeep so I don’t know anything about the history. If the seal isn’t the problem I’ll dig in this weekend and see what I can figure out. Literally only had it a few days so it will be good to dig in and learn about it
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post #5 of 24 Old 01-16-2020, 08:57 PM Thread Starter
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Aside from fixing problems. Are there any other mods or common issues that I could get in front of that are recommended?
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post #6 of 24 Old 01-17-2020, 07:45 AM
mike134
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I didn’t emphasize it, but definitely search the forum for a write up on how to perform the nutter bypass. It’s a good “performance” mod to get you back to the way the Jeep probably ran from the factory after 30 years of poorly thought out emissions equipment that has no replacement parts available.

You completely remove the computer with this mod, and about a bucket of wiring.
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post #7 of 24 Old 01-17-2020, 09:33 AM Thread Starter
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Nice...it's a 3 day weekend so I may just do that this weekend!
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post #8 of 24 Old 01-17-2020, 06:53 PM Thread Starter
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It definitely wasn’t the gasket. It looks like it has a newer fuel pump on it too. I think I’ll change the fuel filter tomorrow to see if that helps. Who knows how old it is so probably needs done anyway.
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post #9 of 24 Old 01-17-2020, 06:54 PM Thread Starter
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Any idea what kind of carb this is?
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post #10 of 24 Old 01-18-2020, 02:56 PM
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Can't identify the carb but it does look clean and dry. It appears to have a vent hose from the top just above the float chamber. In most cases that should go to the charcoal cannister under the steering column on the firewall. The cannister should also receive a vent hose coming from a steel hard line from the gas tank plus have a purge hose going back up to a vacuum port on the carb or manifold. I've forgotten what controls the purge cycles its been so long, but the point is my charcoal cannister was non functional and emitted a gas odor. I have a recent post with pics of the motorcycle charcoal cannister I hooked up to cure the issues (stock cannisters no longer available).

Edit: Here's the BMW motorcycle charcoal cannister I repurposed.

89 YJ Parts Bin Special titled as 84 CJ7; parts ranging from 1984 -2000; 4.2L with AX-15. 2000 XJ Sport 2WD with a troublesome AW4.
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post #11 of 24 Old 01-18-2020, 03:29 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks! Is the first pic the canister you’re referring to? It doesn’t have a metal line but it has 3 rubber hose connected to it. One to the carb, one to the engine (pic 2). And the third is just hanging not connected to anything. Would it be a drain or should it be attached to something?
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post #12 of 24 Old 01-18-2020, 05:17 PM
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It is a Ford Motorcraft 2100 or perhaps 2150. There should be info cast or stamped into carb body that will pin down the exact type. A simple rebuild should get it back in order.


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post #13 of 24 Old 01-19-2020, 09:29 AM
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That's a copy of a Ford Motorcraft 2150, probably from the Ebay guy its a piece of sh*t, He is to carbs what Rough Country is to leaf springs.
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post #14 of 24 Old 01-19-2020, 09:43 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dclifto View Post
Thanks! Is the first pic the canister you’re referring to? It doesn’t have a metal line but it has 3 rubber hose connected to it. One to the carb, one to the engine (pic 2). And the third is just hanging not connected to anything. Would it be a drain or should it be attached to something?
Theres a steel fuel vent line running the in side of the frame from the gas tank, it stops about 10" from the canister that's where that dangling hose goes. That line is held by a clip to frame and rust's out that happened to mine,I cut the line back to good metal, then slipped apiece of rubber fuel line over it to insulate it from the frame and used a wire tie then a new piece of hose to reach the canister. With out that hooked up you'll have fuel smell.
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post #15 of 24 Old 01-19-2020, 09:49 AM
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The charcoal cannister will have all rubber lines going to it. The steel hard lines run from close to the tank, along the frame rail, then connect with rubber hoses to the fuel pump, charcoal cannister, and the fuel filter return barb. Your pics don't show the fuel filter to see if it has a return line outlet and you may not need one with that carb. The stock Carter BBD uses a filter with two outlets - one to the carb and one a return to the fuel tank. Discussions of the return line are split between it controls pressure going to the carb floats and helps prevent vapor lock.
Here's what the filter setup should look like except I have eliminated the stock steel line to the carb that has a drop loop in it. If running the stock style filter the off center barb for the return line should always be oriented to the top to have more flow directed straight to the carb.

89 YJ Parts Bin Special titled as 84 CJ7; parts ranging from 1984 -2000; 4.2L with AX-15. 2000 XJ Sport 2WD with a troublesome AW4.
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