Oil Pan Hanging - JeepForum.com
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post #1 of 15 Old 07-24-2021, 07:44 PM Thread Starter
play2win
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Oil Pan Hanging

1988 YJ 2.5, 5 Speed

Starter was getting very weak, oil pan had a little hole that PO repaired who knows how long ago, and it is rusted out...so I figured I would replace both today. Took the starter out, removed all the bolts for oil pan, it finally came out...but not really. The front dangled down, and it appears it is stuck on the lip of what I guess is the clutch dust cover? I'm guessing this has to be removed....took the two small bolts out on the top, but I have not been able to budge the 2 18mm bolts from the bottom. Maybe I'm not supposed to touch those that go through the bell housing?...but after a few hours of trying to jostle this oil pan in every direction without being too rough with it bc of oil pump, etc - it looks like it will not clear this lip on the clutch/dust cover. I used a pipe wrench on the 18mm nut while holding a 18mm wrench on bolt side - I gotta be missing something here!
Been through the forums the entire evening - haven't found anything on this, any ideas?
I attached a pic of the two bolts that seem to be holding the dust cover in place which is preventing the oil pan from coming out

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post #2 of 15 Old 07-24-2021, 08:57 PM
Luuca
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Never seen this. Usually it comes right off - the oil pan. That said, Im only knowledgeable on 91+ YJs

EDIT: I think if you get those two lower bolts, it may come off if it is a half-shield for inspections like on the AX-15.

You can simply CUT those bolts off and replace them. They are not all that important.

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post #3 of 15 Old 07-24-2021, 09:14 PM
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Are you sure it's not being held on by a bit of stubborn RTV? There should be nothing on the dust cover that protrudes. Should just drop right down.

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post #4 of 15 Old 07-25-2021, 07:03 AM Thread Starter
play2win
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Usually when there are a pair of 18mm bolts through a casting, they have to have some kind of importance - curious if anyone has a shop manual speaking of what I explained? There is def a lip on the dust cover pictured, and there is a lip/groove on the oil pan (the new one as well) - so it is def hung up on there. From what I have read, it looks like the 6 cylinder and anything 91' are different from the first gen 4 cyl YJ's
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post #5 of 15 Old 07-25-2021, 12:53 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by play2win View Post
Usually when there are a pair of 18mm bolts through a casting, they have to have some kind of importance
Those hold the dust cover on. That's it. As you can see.
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post #6 of 15 Old 07-25-2021, 02:05 PM
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have you tried a soft mallet BFH on the oil pan yet? tapping it, thumping it?

Perhaps with all the rust and corrosion i can see in that photo, it's just a little seized. Give it a couple good shots from the very front and very back, it may drop right out.

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post #7 of 15 Old 07-26-2021, 05:26 AM
fishadventure
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I’m assuming you’re using an 18mm wrench, not trying to loosen 18mm bolts!

Anyway, you could have missed some oil pan bolts. There’s two in the rear that are hard to see, hard to get at. Confirm you have as many bolts/nuts removed as there are holes in the new oil pan.


Once that’s out of the way, since the oil pan is a deader, *I* would lower the front as you have and stuff a couple somethings in at the rear as a fulcrum and push up on the front of the pan.
It sounds like adhesion from the gasket sealer around the rear main seal to me. Sometimes you have to jack the frame (with sagged stock springs) to get a little droop for pan removal.

It is possible those inspection cover bolts are hanging you up but I’ve never had that issue myself.

[size=“3”]Shackles & D-rings are different things.
Cranking IS turning over
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post #8 of 15 Old 07-26-2021, 09:46 AM Thread Starter
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Thanks for all the chiming in.....like I mentioned, the oil pan was hanging free. I had to go to Harbor Freight, buy an impact gun - 18mm impact socket, and after f'ing around with this for the better part of Sat/Sun - it came right out with the gun. I will try to post some pics so other people with Gen 1 4 cylinder YJ's can see. Downloaded a manual, and followed the sequence for re-installing. The dust cover has a lip that the oil pan hangs on (which has its own groove a rear main side). There is also a retaining clip that surrounds this section as well. One of the worst parts was removing the 33 year old gasket on engine side....
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post #9 of 15 Old 07-26-2021, 12:02 PM
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Aren't those huge bolts through nothing but sheet metal the stupidest thing ever? They did the same thing on the 4.2L.

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1988 Wrangler,4.2L I-6, Howell EFI JP-1,CRT HEI Ign,AX15 ext slave conversion, Zone 2" lift + 1" BL + 1/2" booms, BFG 31 x 10.5, Bestop.
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post #10 of 15 Old 07-26-2021, 12:33 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by play2win View Post
Thanks for all the chiming in.....like I mentioned, the oil pan was hanging free. I had to go to Harbor Freight, buy an impact gun - 18mm impact socket, and after f'ing around with this for the better part of Sat/Sun - it came right out with the gun. I will try to post some pics so other people with Gen 1 4 cylinder YJ's can see. Downloaded a manual, and followed the sequence for re-installing. The dust cover has a lip that the oil pan hangs on (which has its own groove a rear main side). There is also a retaining clip that surrounds this section as well. One of the worst parts was removing the 33 year old gasket on engine side....
Interesting. You could grind that lip off before you replace the dust cover. No reason for it to be there.

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post #11 of 15 Old 07-26-2021, 02:44 PM
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FWIW, the dust cover on my AX-15 / 4.2 does the same thing and the pan hangs up. I just wiggle it until it falls off.

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post #12 of 15 Old 07-27-2021, 11:01 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Awesome View Post
Interesting. You could grind that lip off before you replace the dust cover. No reason for it to be there.
That lip is there for a reason. Beads, lips, and other contours are what give flat steel stamped things their strength and ability to hold their shape. Do a little winter driving in deep nasty snow for long distances like we do to get to work in Michigan. Snow and slush packs into places that you warm weather guys probably do not comprehend. Remember, water is the freak of nature. It expands when it gets colder as in when it freezes. That is when these shields start to make contact with torque converter bolts, the flywheel, etc. It really does happen at times. Removing them or altering them is not the answer. Just get the two big bolts out and be done which he already did.

If you cannot fix it with a hammer then it has to be an electrical problem.
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post #13 of 15 Old 07-27-2021, 11:02 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Awesome View Post
Interesting. You could grind that lip off before you replace the dust cover. No reason for it to be there.
That lip is there for a reason. Beads, lips, and other contours are what give flat steel stamped things their strength and ability to hold their shape. Do a little winter driving in deep nasty snow for long distances like we do to get to work in Michigan. Snow and slush packs into places that you warm weather guys probably do not comprehend. Remember, water is the freak of nature. It expands when it gets colder as in when it freezes. That is when these shields start to make contact with torque converter bolts, the flywheel, etc. It really does happen at times. Removing them or altering them is not the answer. That will cause a no start by too much snow around the flywheel or you starter is frozen. Just get the two big bolts out and be done which he already did.

If you cannot fix it with a hammer then it has to be an electrical problem.
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post #14 of 15 Old 07-27-2021, 01:57 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Boojo35 View Post
water…expands when it gets colder as in when it freezes
Ha! Not true!!! Not true!!

[size=“3”]Shackles & D-rings are different things.
Cranking IS turning over
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post #15 of 15 Old 07-27-2021, 04:43 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fishadventure View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by Boojo35 View Post
water…expands when it gets colder as in when it freezes
Ha! Not true!!! Not true!!
🍿😇
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