Oil leak? - JeepForum.com
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post #1 of 20 Old 05-17-2020, 03:59 PM Thread Starter
taylorce1
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Oil leak?

Just replaced my daughters 88 YJ 4.2L with the one I had rebuilt for my CJ when she lost compression in cylinders 5 & 6. So now she has an 84 CJ block with a 4.0L head conversion. She didn't loose any oil during the initial 50 mile and 500 mile oil changes. Now all of a sudden she has a pretty serious oil leak.

Oil is dripping from inside the bell housing, when she told me where the leak was I initially though valve cover or rear main. Well it isn't either of these and the leak is definitely coming from inside the bell housing. The only think I'm thinking it can be is the threaded plug that is in between the upper and lower freeze plugs on the back of the motor. Could this have possibly backed out during her daily driving?


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post #2 of 20 Old 05-17-2020, 04:16 PM
warrant311
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I am pretty new to Jeep. Does anyone know if oil leaks are a big issue with Jeeps as opposed to other branded vehicles?
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post #3 of 20 Old 05-17-2020, 04:21 PM
jsawduste
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Check the oil filter adapter on the side of the block. They are notorious leakers and often a rear main is blamed when in fact its the adapter.


The whole adapter can be removed. The nipple the oil filter threads on to can be threaded into the block and a Bosch 3330 or similar be used. Much better setup.
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post #4 of 20 Old 05-17-2020, 10:19 PM Thread Starter
taylorce1
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jsawduste View Post
Check the oil filter adapter on the side of the block. They are notorious leakers and often a rear main is blamed when in fact its the adapter.
The block is extremely clean still. No leak from oil filter adapter. All the engine oil is coming from inside the bell housing. I'm just looking outside the obvious culprits before I pull the transmission or engine.

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post #5 of 20 Old 05-17-2020, 10:52 PM
Chrisnvegas
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The trans does not need to be pulled to do the RMS.
I had to do it on my kid's Jeep.
I was pissed. I installed a rebuilt long block and the RMS leaked immediately.

At least it was a shiny new engine and not all gunked up.

It's a two piece seal. I used Permatex Automatic Transmission RTV Sealant because I had it in the cabinet.
About 5 years later, the engine is still bone dry. The trans-rated RTV worked exceptionally well and I'll use it again.

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post #6 of 20 Old 05-18-2020, 06:57 AM Thread Starter
taylorce1
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Chrisnvegas View Post
The trans does not need to be pulled to do the RMS.
Again this Jeep isn't leaking from the RMS or the valve cover. The leak seems to be coming from inside the bell housing, the oil pan and the front of the bell housing is completely dry and free of engine oil where a RMS leaks.

When my daughter told me what was going on I was expecting a RMS. I had the rebuilt engine on a stand for a little over two years, so it wouldn't of surprised me if the RMS failed. I don't think I'll get around it, I'm going to have to pull the transmission or the engine to solve the issue.

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post #7 of 20 Old 05-19-2020, 09:02 AM Thread Starter
taylorce1
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No leak from back of valve cover.


No leak at oil filter.


No leak at RMS.


Leak from inside of bell housing!


Looking at back of her OLD motor I think this is the probably culprit. I don't know if the plug from her motor didn't fit the different block, or they didn't locktite the plug and it backed out due to vibration. Definitely hoping it isn't one of the larger plugs that have developed a leak.




So I think I'm pulling the transmission back out.

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post #8 of 20 Old 05-20-2020, 08:31 AM
TheStevest
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Is it possibly the slave cylinder? that would drip from that same location.
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post #9 of 20 Old 05-20-2020, 08:32 AM
TheStevest
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My new favorite way to find oil leaks is a UV detection kit. Just some dye you put in the oil and a blacklight. Makes any oil leaks light up like the fourth of july! For 20$ it's saved me a ton of time and headaches with finding leaks.
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post #10 of 20 Old 05-20-2020, 03:13 PM Thread Starter
taylorce1
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TheStevest View Post
Is it possibly the slave cylinder? that would drip from that same location.
I doubt it's a slave cylinder, engine oil pressure and oil level has been dropping. She's been adding 2-3 quarts a week, so it's a very serious leak. I'm hoping I have a day to pull the transmission this weekend.

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post #11 of 20 Old 05-22-2020, 07:36 PM
mikewiz38
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Quote:
Originally Posted by taylorce1 View Post
I doubt it's a slave cylinder, engine oil pressure and oil level has been dropping. She's been adding 2-3 quarts a week, so it's a very serious leak. I'm hoping I have a day to pull the transmission this weekend.
Please keep us updated. I have a very small oil leak between the bell housing and the flex plate. Between the flex plate and the engine is dry. Part of me thinks it's the RMS and the other part has no idea. It would be interesting to hear what you find out.

Good Luck!

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post #12 of 20 Old 05-30-2020, 01:30 PM Thread Starter
taylorce1
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I thought I'd update this. Pulled the transmission and no oil leak! The oil is engine oil but it was coming from the transmission breather tube. Going to put gear oil back in the transmission when I get it back in instead of using engine oil.





I did damage the pilot bearing need to get it out, cant fit my puller and slide hammer inside the small hole. So I'm waiting on a new tool to come in so I can push it out with grease. Tool should be here Tuesday, I almost tried packing it with white bread as seen on YouTube.

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post #13 of 20 Old 05-30-2020, 03:47 PM
rocketboy
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I've tried the grease and bread methods and never could get it to work. Probably user error.

However, if you go to autozone and get a loaner blind hole puller, it works great for getting the pilot bearing out.

So, glad you found the leak but, I thought you said "engine oil pressure and oil level has been dropping. She's been adding 2-3 quarts a week, so it's a very serious leak". That doesn't seem to jive with a transmission leak.
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post #14 of 20 Old 05-30-2020, 08:24 PM
timatoe
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Which trans is it? The AX-15 calls for motor oil. I wouldn't put gear oil in it, it'll be too thick. Either use motor oil or something like Redline MT90.

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post #15 of 20 Old 05-31-2020, 07:23 AM
gutthans
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I found that Pennzoil Synchro-mesh (yellow bottle) works well for TCase and Trans and is NOT GL-5, which will eat your synchro rings in the AX. Inexpensive compared to MT-90 and Amsoil and Royal Purple.
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