Np207 transfer case fluid change. - JeepForum.com
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post #1 of 14 Old 10-12-2019, 03:06 PM Thread Starter
korYJ87
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Np207 transfer case fluid change.

On the outset of removing fill/drain plugs. I came across issue with the skid plate not allowing me to fit the 30mm socket properly to the drain plug. It looks like the bolts holding the skid plate have been replaced and the condition of them look good. My question, could a worn transmission mount cause a sag not allowing me access to the drain plug? Or maybe the bolts, spacers or washers on the skid plate raised it somewhat?

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post #2 of 14 Old 10-12-2019, 03:09 PM
Siva283
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Pics would help

1995 YJ. 2 inch BDS Spring lift. 1 inch shackle lift. 1.25 inch JKS Body Lift 33x12.5x15's. Engo 10,000 pound winch.

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. It started with a $200 axle, and a few thousand dollars later I was done :)
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diagnose the real issue before you start going all Obama on it - spending mad cash you'll need for other important things.

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post #3 of 14 Old 10-12-2019, 03:15 PM Thread Starter
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I’ll add pics
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post #4 of 14 Old 10-12-2019, 09:17 PM Thread Starter
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Transfer/skid plate
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7059AC2C-1435-4E60-A24F-03577B4F4EAB_1570932986778.jpg   81000886-EAE6-44EA-AF5A-4DAEFE68CF49_1570933012226.jpg   DB6256E7-742D-4420-9ABE-AFD0D84F52C2_1570933035144.jpg  
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post #5 of 14 Old 10-13-2019, 07:51 AM
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How about using a ujoint on your extension or a wrench to break it loose?
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post #6 of 14 Old 10-13-2019, 08:23 AM
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I use a wrench 1-3/16 I think
Are those aluminum spacers for a skid plate drop or am I looking at that wrong? (I dislike skid plate drops because Clearance is compromised. My recent jeep acquisition won’t drive into its storage spot because it high centers on the trans skid on a ridge of rock. I sorta made that little “road” with my DD and drove in the ‘back way’ at least a hundred times this summer and never noticed there was a ledge there, just a bump. If you’re going to wheel at all you should save Pennies for an SYE; clearance is everything) pennies for an asked why E; clearance is everything)

[size=“3”]Shackles & D-rings are different things.
Cranking IS turning over
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post #7 of 14 Old 10-13-2019, 03:18 PM
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Originally Posted by fishadventure View Post
I use a wrench 1-3/16 I think
Are those aluminum spacers for a skid plate drop or am I looking at that wrong? (I dislike skid plate drops because Clearance is compromised. My recent jeep acquisition won’t drive into its storage spot because it high centers on the trans skid on a ridge of rock. I sorta made that little “road” with my DD and drove in the ‘back way’ at least a hundred times this summer and never noticed there was a ledge there, just a bump. If you’re going to wheel at all you should save Pennies for an SYE; clearance is everything) pennies for an asked why E; clearance is everything)
Fish is correct. It is possibly a 1 3/16 but may be a 1 5/16. I also use a wrench.

Those do look like T-case drop spacers. They really should not have changed the spacing but may have changed the angle not allowing you to get your socket on. If your socket is really close to having clearance than carefully jack up the t-case at the tailshaft housing. The trans mount is rubber and will move up a slight amount without damaging it. If you need more clearance then un bolt the trans mount bolts that go downward through the skid plate and you can jack the trans and transfer up more than enough before it hits the body from the looks of the pics.

And yes, a worn or sagging trans mount could cause it but not a game changer.

If you cannot fix it with a hammer then it has to be an electrical problem.
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post #8 of 14 Old 10-13-2019, 05:13 PM Thread Starter
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Good advice, thank you for the assist!
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post #9 of 14 Old 10-13-2019, 10:34 PM
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that doesn't even look like a YJ skid to me.

ANd i dont even know what i am seeing in that 2nd photo... does that exhaust turn inboard and disappear into thin air? man, too much turkey today i suppose

Stop whining about the 'ride' - If your YJ ain't wrangling your soul free, then might I suggest you buy a stationwagon... at least you can fit all your bull**** in the back.
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post #10 of 14 Old 10-14-2019, 06:50 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by korYJ87 View Post
On the outset of removing fill/drain plugs. I came across issue with the skid plate not allowing me to fit the 30mm socket properly to the drain plug. It looks like the bolts holding the skid plate have been replaced and the condition of them look good. My question, could a worn transmission mount cause a sag not allowing me access to the drain plug? Or maybe the bolts, spacers or washers on the skid plate raised it somewhat?
Possible. I recall getting a socket on mine w the oem skid plate

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post #11 of 14 Old 10-14-2019, 08:49 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bruinjeeper View Post
that doesn't even look like a YJ skid to me.

ANd i dont even know what i am seeing in that 2nd photo... does that exhaust turn inboard and disappear into thin air? man, too much turkey today i suppose
That's definitely a stock YJ skid. It's just very clean, rust free and not bent.

Also, that is the air injection tube for the cat converter, based on that he has an early YJ.

The trans/t-case sits at more of an angle with the t-case drop. In a stock installation, there is enough clearance, but it's tight. You could probably just remove the trans mount and torque arm bolts from the skid plate and lift the trans/t-case with up a little to gain clearance instead of dropping the skid plate.

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post #12 of 14 Old 10-14-2019, 01:03 PM
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Quote:
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bruinjeeper View Post
that doesn't even look like a YJ skid to me.

ANd i dont even know what i am seeing in that 2nd photo... does that exhaust turn inboard and disappear into thin air? man, too much turkey today i suppose
That's definitely a stock YJ skid. It's just very clean, rust free and not bent.

Also, that is the air injection tube for the cat converter, based on that he has an early YJ.

The trans/t-case sits at more of an angle with the t-case drop. In a stock installation, there is enough clearance, but it's tight. You could probably just remove the trans mount and torque arm bolts from the skid plate and lift the trans/t-case with up a little to gain clearance instead of dropping the skid plate.
Everything made much more sense to me this morning. Thanksgiving lunch/dinner and some red wine really made me see those images in quite an odd manner yesterday!

Thanks.
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Stop whining about the 'ride' - If your YJ ain't wrangling your soul free, then might I suggest you buy a stationwagon... at least you can fit all your bull**** in the back.
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post #13 of 14 Old 10-16-2019, 12:57 PM Thread Starter
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I’m already learning a lot from reading the threads from you all!

Another question I’d like to pose: I’m leaning towards synthetic motor oil. A friend suggested using valvoline ‘max life’ full synthetic. Claiming the age of the Jeep.
When I purchased this yj, it had 48k orig. I went w/ conventional 10-30. I’m now 60k. Would this be ok to do? I’ve watched on utube that if you go with a ‘max life’ you must STay w/ it. Lastly, my buddy has already put it in his vehicle, at mileage 50k and if he is wrong should he or can he switch? Max life recommends for vehicles over 75k.
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post #14 of 14 Old 10-16-2019, 04:37 PM
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I’m already learning a lot from reading the threads from you all!

Another question I’d like to pose: I’m leaning towards synthetic motor oil. A friend suggested using valvoline ‘max life’ full synthetic. Claiming the age of the Jeep.
When I purchased this yj, it had 48k orig. I went w/ conventional 10-30. I’m now 60k. Would this be ok to do? I’ve watched on utube that if you go with a ‘max life’ you must STay w/ it. Lastly, my buddy has already put it in his vehicle, at mileage 50k and if he is wrong should he or can he switch? Max life recommends for vehicles over 75k.
Through a lot of research that I did, I'd say it's your call if you want to go to synthetic. If you search my posts, you will see a thread I created about motor oil and asking the same question.

The short answer is I have maybe like 50k(?) on the engine since it was rebuilt and the PO used a blend. I was afraid about going to full synthetic that it would cause leaks. I decided to use Mobil 1 5w-30 full synthetic a few months ago and things have been OK.

I say OK because I did have an oil leak, but it's something that was probably already there. The source was the oil pan bolts not being tightened down enough, and I believe the gasket may have something going on with it. Besides that small leak, things have looked good. And for my particular leak, I just put some RTV at the end of the bolt where the washers go and it seemed to fix the problem. I haven't driven it much, but that's just been my experience.

As for the high mileage oils, somebody smarter can explain it but I believe it just has more anti-swelling additives to it so the seals don't leak. I just went the regular route because I was afraid that the 'high mileage' oils would clog something up.

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