NotThePainter's YJ - JeepForum.com
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post #1 of 70 Old 05-06-2011, 05:06 AM Thread Starter
NotThePainter
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1995 YJ Wrangler 
 
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: Keene
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NotThePainter's YJ

I've had my TJ, my first Jeep, for over a year now. Bought it as a beach rig and discovered wheelin' last Fall. Was just at the beginning of the buildup when one of the parts I bought (Dana 44 from a TJ) wasn't correct and the whole budget house of cards tumbled down.

A nice wheelin' YJ appeared and I bought it last night.

Here's the specs from the craigslist ad:

The good:
  • 2.5L 4 cylinder
  • AX-5 manual tranny
  • 3.5" black diamond suspension
  • Dana 30 front axle with ected locker, geared 4.88, vacuum disconnect removed
  • Ford 8.8 rear axle with ected locker, geared 4.88, disk brakes
  • Durango power steering box
  • bullet proof tie rod and drag link
  • nate 4x4 front winch bumper
  • smity built rear bumper/tire carrier
  • NP231 sye kit on transfer case
  • tom woods custom rear drive shaft
  • high tire clearance tube fender front and rear
  • K&N cone filter and rusty air tube
  • warn gas tank skid
  • stickers that add a ton of horse power


The bad:
  • crack forming at power steering pump on frame
  • starter on the way out
  • no rear shocks (been like that for many years don't even notice them missing)

And of course pix from the ad. (It is on 34x10.5 in the shots. They did not come with it. I have inspection tires on it now. I'll be putting my 33x12.5 TrXus on it.)









I need to do a few things right away. The top is abysmal. Would love some recommendations on a YJ top. I'll need a new frame for it or would love a bowless design like the Rampage for the TJ. I do have the family cage.

Frame crack looks minor and easy to fix, some fab work will be needed to add rear shocks, it needs them in my opinion. I have an Anti-Rock that I'll get out of my TJ and see about putting it in. Not too comfortable running without a swaybar on the street.

Need to replace the starter.

The inner fenders are gone, pulled when the very sturdy tubes were put in. I'd like some just for looks and so cops don't think it is a cob-job.

Oil pan is bashed in, probably want to replace that and put a skid over it.

Need to install my CB and buy a hilift. I can probably afford a winch now, that's great. Why can I afford it with all the above work.

I paid $2650. I got a beat looking trail rig, what I've always wanted. And I have a buyer for my TJ already, we just haven't agreed on price. Life is good.

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post #2 of 70 Old 05-06-2011, 05:42 AM
Brazuca
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How's the 2.5 4 banger holding off ? Do you have a 2.5 on the TJ as well ? I'm asking because I'm buying a YJ this weekend (most likely) and it is a '89 with the 4 banger and manual trans.
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post #3 of 70 Old 05-06-2011, 05:42 AM
Brazuca
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Nice rig by the way, congrats!
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post #4 of 70 Old 05-06-2011, 06:13 AM Thread Starter
NotThePainter
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Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: Keene
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My TJ has the 4 also. I don't mind the 4 at all except you MUST have proper gearing for it. I had 31s on my 4.10 geared TJ, was ok except with passengers and hills. I put the 33s on it in preparation for the lift and 4.88. Ouch ouch ouch. Don't do it.

This one already has the 4.88s and I expect it to be fine.

And thanks!
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post #5 of 70 Old 05-06-2011, 06:27 AM
shaggyjim
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Nice find!
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post #6 of 70 Old 05-06-2011, 06:49 AM Thread Starter
NotThePainter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by shaggyjim View Post
Nice find!
Thanks! I'm pretty happy.
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post #7 of 70 Old 06-01-2011, 04:32 AM Thread Starter
NotThePainter
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I so need to update this thread but for now I just want to get the video out that I made of Agnes' maiden wheelin trip with me. Enjoy!


Last edited by NotThePainter; 06-01-2011 at 11:12 AM. Reason: change youtube link
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post #8 of 70 Old 06-01-2011, 09:33 AM
mzimerf
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Good buy buddy. How much if you dont mind me asking
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post #9 of 70 Old 06-01-2011, 09:35 AM
mzimerf
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Oops totally missed it.good deal. I would recommend a frameless top. Theyre awesome.
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post #10 of 70 Old 06-02-2011, 04:47 PM Thread Starter
NotThePainter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mzimerf View Post
I would recommend a frameless top. Theyre awesome.
I'm completely satisfied with mine. Oh, it is probably harder to stow than the framed top, but so far I've just run in safari mode. Happy with the breeze and the shade. We'll see later, maybe in the fall, when I want sun.
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post #11 of 70 Old 07-23-2011, 01:52 PM Thread Starter
NotThePainter
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Here's some shots on Class VI roads in NH.
















Check out the brake lines on the first shot. Oh boy! I'm looking to replace them but I measure them at 25" and the longest I can find are 24" so that's not going to help. Maybe measure again... At least the maxxed out shock is keeping the brake line from snapping!
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post #12 of 70 Old 07-23-2011, 03:14 PM
Noltz
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For your brake line, Jeep hardlines are incredibly easy to do. I did all 3 of mine in about 2 hours, new, master cylinder to each flex line. I'd suggest just fabbing a new hard line that will let you mount your flex below the frame. Then you're not looking for special lines should you snag one on a tree.

-Noltz
'91 Frankenheep YJ. 4.0, 4" BDS, Richmond 8.8, Titan 12k, 35" KM2's, rust.
'88 YJ, 4.2/4.0 head, +4Ĺ" & shackles, BFG 33's (sold)
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post #13 of 70 Old 07-23-2011, 07:59 PM
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Nice wrangler, and you got it for a steal of a deal.

A 89 yj with a 4.0 aw4 sye out of an 92xj. Now the hard part is done time to get it up in the air just a bit. Working on 8.8 with 3.73 and lsd for the rear. and new D30 hp with 3.73 .
For those who have not figured this out I'm old school but can handle the new too.
Quote:
Originally Posted by bigsquat View Post
im just cheap, and cheap makes you creative.
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post #14 of 70 Old 12-13-2014, 09:45 AM Thread Starter
NotThePainter
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Location: Keene
Posts: 516
Ok, time to update this a bit... She sat out of wheeling for awhile because we found a missing tooth on a spider gear in the rear, didn't want to be that guy that knew his rig was bad and had a trail breakdown on a run. Then we moved to NH, much closer to wheeling, but the throwout bearing went in the transmission and with the move and other personal stuff we didn't wheel her much last year.

We fixed the throwout bearing and put in a new clutch since we in there this spring, and then pulled the ECTED out of the rear and went with a detroit. Ditched the front trackbar also. She's squirrelly as anything on the road now but at least we're wheeling again. Oh, ditching the trackbar really did increase the ride comfort, now she's only awful...

She failed inspection this fall, I knew she would, because of rust. She has the typical year frame rust, and also driver's side floor and two spots on the tub under the hinges right next to where the body mounts are. We needed to make a fix or part-out decision. Took her into Gunseth's in Surrey NH (great shop BTW!) for cancer checkup. This would have been a fix or dump decision.

He pronounced her curable, he was actually pretty impressed by her underneath! The driver's side rear frame end needs to be replaced, he says that's easy. The driver's side floor is also easy. The two parts of the tub near where the body mounts are (approximately under the door hinge) are easy, especially easy on the driver's side since he'll be doing the floor there.

Oh, and that banging we've been hearing all summer? It started after a run at Field and Forest, I crawled under and couldn't see much but it did look like the muffler hanger was bent and the muffler might have been hitting the body. But after Freeze V the noise change, now it was a rat-a-tat when it happens. Driveshaft I thought, it is hitting the tub. Yes, it is he says! He figures I must have crush a transmission or transaxle mount and pushed that up some. He noted that Agnes has a very stout skid under there. (It is Fabtech and has certainly been used...)

So next is the build out plan. I'd appreciate any advice. Agnes will be doing the harder, but not extreme, trails (Blacks?) at Field and Forest and LMFT in addition to moderate stuff for ENH. (These are local wheeling sites, Blacks at Field and Forest are similar if not a bit harder than Blacks at Rausch.)

Stage I
  • ARB front locker (I'm mostly against a lunchbox, have heard lots of good about them but lots of bad, especially on a 4 cylinder.
  • Gusset/Sleeve/Truss the HP30 - what do I need to beef up? She already has has 1541H shafts, one piece TJ units from Yukon
  • Lizard Skin then Monstaliner on the tub - after removing the surface rust of course. This is to keep the heat of of the cockpit, she's awful in the summer.
  • Rust repair outlined above


Stage II
  • 35" tires - I'll sell the 33s
  • Boom shackles/Body lift/Bumpstops - Agnes can fit pretty much any tire up front, back is a little tougher. On a run this summer I was able to fully stuff her 33s into the rear tire well. I guess I could bumpstop or make her a bit taller, or some combination of this. She is on stock shackles now and the shackles do hit the front and rear bumper. So I could put booms and gain a smidge of height, say 1/2", and maybe a 1/2" body lift. Or maybe drop the body lift and increase the rear bumpstop. Dunno. Opinions?


Stage III (the difficult dreaming stage)
  • RockTrac or TeraLow - who doesn't want one?
  • Mastercraft reclining suspension seats - Not keen on Corbeau. I know a lot of people love them but I read about one failure online that spooked me.
  • Harness - Agnes seat belts suck, I repair the passenger one every year. If we get real seats might as well get a 4 point. Probably get the Corbeau 4 point that has the lock/unlock feature on the retractor so you get the best of both worlds, unlocked for the street, locked for the trails.
  • Harness bar - needed for a 4 point

And here's some eye-candy. This first was the closest I've come to rolling.



And here's some showing when I stuffed the passenger side rear. Sadly I didn't get a close up.





And here's what we did when the rear tire carrier failed. Best mod ever, we can see out the back now! The ratchet straps are, I think 20,000lb one, found them online. I did not want a 100lb tire in our backs during an accident.





And a wood platform with the low riser coolers on top. We can see over this with the rear view mirror.

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post #15 of 70 Old 03-10-2021, 04:53 PM Thread Starter
NotThePainter
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Location: Keene
Posts: 516
Holy Zombie thread Batman!

I must apologize for neglecting the build thread. I thought I had just missed a few years, but 6 plus years? Yikes!

I'll try and fill in what happened, and a lot has happened. I was so active here, getting all sort of advice, but when I started relying on my mechanic I hated asking you all for help, just in case "my guy" wanted to do something different. But, that's in the past.

Agnes has all grown up now.



She's past Stage III above, so past that. I can't remember the order of everything.

It all started with a Detroit locker in the rear which I kept for less than a season. I'm pretty sure it was because she's light, just a 4 cylinder, but the highway performance was scary. She would dart left or right 6 to 9 inches whenever you changed the throttle position. Sold that and got ARBs front and rear.

Got ARBS front and rear the next year. Wow, what a difference. Selectable lockers are the way to go for a rock crawler. Say you're in a tight situation and need to turn, just turn off the front, make the turn, then turn it back on. I love my ARBs. I guess OX lockers are good also and have greater options for triggering them, but, I have ARBs.

The next step was suspension. I wanted more flex and I wanted more comfort. Front shackle reversal seemed to be the ticket. So that was done, and I got revolvers at the rear. To this date the revolvers have not exploded or anything bad.

Next was 35s. This was pretty easy since doing the shackle reversal and revolvers meant that some blocks were welded to the frame and she got a tiny bit taller. I didn't like that, I really do believe the COG mantra, low is good, but the 35s fit without any modifications.



Ok, maybe some modifications. That's not me BTW, that's my friend Chris who knows what he's doing.





Oh, it is dinner time, I'll post more later.
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