Not satisfied with Brakes - JeepForum.com
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post #1 of 43 Old 05-25-2021, 02:56 PM Thread Starter
mikwallace
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Not satisfied with Brakes

Starting new - I copied and pasted this to the forum rather than continuing conversation on “What did you do to your YJ Today”.


YJ Brakes not satisfactory, put new rotors, pads on the front and drums, shoes, and hardware on the rear when I had the vehicle taken apart; maybe a 800-900 miles ago. I’ve never been happy with the stopping power! Mostly stock except 265/75-16 Goodyear Wrangler AT. Brakes would not lockup going steep downhill on asphalt. Bled again and no change. Installed new rear wheel cylinders and flushed brake fluid, bled, and adjusted. Rear wheel cylinders were corroded inside (years of non use?). Installed new master cylinder and thoroughly cleaned proportional valve. Booster passes test as per Haynes (no leak down, etc etc). Will now lockup brakes on steep downhill, but I’ve got to put all my weight on the pedal. On level ground it takes all I got to emergency stop but won’t lockup wheels. Looks like perhaps an upgrade to ‘95 YJ Booster and Master Cylinder will help?

ShaggyJim -

What kind of pads??

Oreilly’s “Break Best Select” Semi-Metallic pads - special of the day I guess?


Daddyjeep87 -

Local big box stores have booster and MC for about $150.

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post #2 of 43 Old 05-25-2021, 03:08 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mikwallace View Post
Starting new - I copied and pasted this to the forum rather than continuing conversation on “What did you do to your YJ Today”.


YJ Brakes not satisfactory, put new rotors, pads on the front and drums, shoes, and hardware on the rear when I had the vehicle taken apart; maybe a 800-900 miles ago. I’ve never been happy with the stopping power! Mostly stock except 265/75-16 Goodyear Wrangler AT. Brakes would not lockup going steep downhill on asphalt. Bled again and no change. Installed new rear wheel cylinders and flushed brake fluid, bled, and adjusted. Rear wheel cylinders were corroded inside (years of non use?). Installed new master cylinder and thoroughly cleaned proportional valve. Booster passes test as per Haynes (no leak down, etc etc). Will now lockup brakes on steep downhill, but I’ve got to put all my weight on the pedal. On level ground it takes all I got to emergency stop but won’t lockup wheels. Looks like perhaps an upgrade to ‘95 YJ Booster and Master Cylinder will help?

ShaggyJim -

What kind of pads??

Oreilly’s “Break Best Select” Semi-Metallic pads - special of the day I guess?


Daddyjeep87 -

Local big box stores have booster and MC for about $150.

Have you considered moving to a dual diaphragm booster vs your stock single? You can swap in a stock dual diaphragm XJ or TJ booster with a modification to the master cylinder push rod for length and connection end. If you weld, it can be done DIY.

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post #3 of 43 Old 05-25-2021, 03:18 PM Thread Starter
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Luca - yes I have. I’ve read several threads on the topic. No wranglers in the salvage around here, so new from big box store is the solution; however, I found a 95 YJ booster, MC, and Prop valve on EBay from DeadJeeps for about $30 less. As I understand the ‘95 only have to drill the rod hole bigger on backside of booster; whereas, on XJ/TJ rod length has to be adjusted/lengthened, hence cut and weld.
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post #4 of 43 Old 05-25-2021, 03:56 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mikwallace View Post
Luca - yes I have. I’ve read several threads on the topic. No wranglers in the salvage around here, so new from big box store is the solution; however, I found a 95 YJ booster, MC, and Prop valve on EBay from DeadJeeps for about $30 less. As I understand the ‘95 only have to drill the rod hole bigger on backside of booster; whereas, on XJ/TJ rod length has to be adjusted/lengthened, hence cut and weld.
95 booster is direct swap. no drilling. you are thinking of the TJ booster.

95s can be hard to find, which is why a lot of us switched to the TJ version.

When I got my jeep it was bone stock and it stopped ok but one of the brake lines had rusted out and the fluid was dirty so I changed everything. New master, wheel cylinders, calipers and hard and soft lines. YJ brake parts are pretty cheap. After that and and using OEM parts the braking was noticeable better. Later when I put on 35s I needed the double booster

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post #5 of 43 Old 05-25-2021, 04:31 PM
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Originally Posted by jbolty View Post
95s can be hard to find,
Used, new (rebuilt) or both?


Mine are bordering on unsafe, they certainly would be for someone not used to them. I changed pads the other day, did nothing. Actually feels worse, probably is (because I need new rotors , so flat pads on grooved rotor equals less contact area. So new rotor next week.)

I was thinking today about an old 1950's car I had, much heavier, MUCH faster, drum brakes all around, NOT power brakes, yet it stopped on a dime compared to this thing.

Silicone, the thinking man's duct tape.
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post #6 of 43 Old 05-25-2021, 06:40 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by cas6969 View Post
Used, new (rebuilt) or both?


Mine are bordering on unsafe, they certainly would be for someone not used to them. I changed pads the other day, did nothing. Actually feels worse, probably is (because I need new rotors , so flat pads on grooved rotor equals less contact area. So new rotor next week.)

I was thinking today about an old 1950's car I had, much heavier, MUCH faster, drum brakes all around, NOT power brakes, yet it stopped on a dime compared to this thing.

Oreilly and AutoZone are Reman. The EBay is salvaged but operationally checked, and from Dead Jeeps.com


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post #7 of 43 Old 05-25-2021, 07:23 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mikwallace View Post
Luca - yes I have. I’ve read several threads on the topic. No wranglers in the salvage around here, so new from big box store is the solution; however, I found a 95 YJ booster, MC, and Prop valve on EBay from DeadJeeps for about $30 less. As I understand the ‘95 only have to drill the rod hole bigger on backside of booster; whereas, on XJ/TJ rod length has to be adjusted/lengthened, hence cut and weld.
I think you can get away without welding. I did on my CJ dual diaphragm swap. I cut the rod with an inch of stem left on rod end. Run a thread die over that stem and the remaining inch or two of the rod and use a coupling nut and lock nuts to make and adjustable rod.

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post #8 of 43 Old 05-25-2021, 08:15 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by jeep_boy02 View Post
I think you can get away without welding. I did on my CJ dual diaphragm swap. I cut the rod with an inch of stem left on rod end. Run a thread die over that stem and the remaining inch or two of the rod and use a coupling nut and lock nuts to make and adjustable rod.

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Is the rod you’re speaking of the rod that goes into the master cylinder or the rod that goes through the firewall to the pedal?


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post #9 of 43 Old 05-25-2021, 08:23 PM
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To pedal. But it also went through, or at least to the firewall. It's been awhile since I did it and I don't have any pics and I'm away from the jeep for the next month so i can't look at it real quick. I know it wasn't one of those that has the rod end attached to booster. Was more like a slave rod from pedal to MC

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post #10 of 43 Old 05-25-2021, 09:12 PM
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Here's a pic I found of the same type of mod.


Wilwood and Scott drake also have similar "adjustable" rods

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post #11 of 43 Old 05-25-2021, 09:12 PM
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A MC swap will make things better for you for sure. I see folks swapping Ford and Dodge set ups in as well. Do a search for all your options. Also, IIRC, semi metallic pads take some heating up to provide the best friction. That may be ceramic, someone will correct me if I am wrong. My '90 YJ stops pretty well, a bit squirrelly under hard braking but I think thats due to the calipers being old and sticking at times. Those are definitely on the replace list along with the pads. I plan to find fiber pads for that and most likely I will swap out the hoses as well. I also think I read the braided SS hoses do not expand like the OEM rubber ones so all the fluid goes to the calipers/ wheel clyinders.


Good luck!
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post #12 of 43 Old 05-25-2021, 09:15 PM
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True on the braided flex lines.

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post #13 of 43 Old 05-25-2021, 10:53 PM
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Originally Posted by SevenSlotAddict View Post
A MC swap will make things better for you for sure. I see folks swapping Ford and Dodge set ups in as well. Do a search for all your options. Also, IIRC, semi metallic pads take some heating up to provide the best friction. That may be ceramic, someone will correct me if I am wrong. My '90 YJ stops pretty well, a bit squirrelly under hard braking but I think thats due to the calipers being old and sticking at times. Those are definitely on the replace list along with the pads. I plan to find fiber pads for that and most likely I will swap out the hoses as well. I also think I read the braided SS hoses do not expand like the OEM rubber ones so all the fluid goes to the calipers/ wheel clyinders.


Good luck!
Semi metallic work the best of all pads when cold.

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post #14 of 43 Old 05-25-2021, 10:58 PM
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As I talked about in the PM, I think your brake system is fine but your booster just doesn't have the power/performance you're expecting. IMO the only real solution is a dual diaphragm booster. If you can't weld but can get your hands on a 95 bolt in booster, you shouldn't be sitting on it bc those are super hard to find.

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post #15 of 43 Old 05-25-2021, 11:50 PM
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less than $100 seems reasonable to me...

95-brake-booster-pic.jpg
shaggyjim and bruinjeeper like this.

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