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post #46 of 76 Old 09-21-2020, 01:27 PM
bruinjeeper
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Originally Posted by CaliYJ3 View Post
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There is a freeze plug back there too.
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Originally Posted by 4Low2G0 View Post
yes there is, that's a trans out job. [IMG class=inlineimg]/forum/images/JeepForum_2016/smilies/tango_face_surprise.png[/IMG]


If its a trans out job, probably do the clutch at the same time.
It's a do everything while ur in there type job.

With u having a 2.5L ....one piece rear main seal. Just do it. Irregardless of if its leaking lol

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post #47 of 76 Old 09-21-2020, 03:58 PM
codyYJ
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Regarding the leak, I haven’t dove too much into it. But it’s coming a hole on the fender/wheel liner.
Not sure if the leak could be something like this, but I just recently went through a coolant leak problem and I was way overthinking it. The coolant was mainly running down the lower radiator hose, hitting the dust shield, and then ending up on the frame rail in a similar pace to your leak. Also it was just running down the side of the block along the top of the oil pan.

Anyways, first thing I changed was the lower radiator hose clamp with a brand new one from parts store. No change.

Then changed lower radiator hose. No change.

Then changed water pump. No change.

Then changed thermostat housing. No change.

Then put in the UV dye and tried to figure out where it was coming from in dark with black light, but gave up. I was stumped. So had it towed to a shop.

Then I get the call that it is something simple. The hose clamp on the lower radiator hose was bad from the package.

I then pound my head against the wall and say you got to be kidding me. Obviously lots of money spent on unneeded parts and time. And I had a second brand new clamp I could have tried since the package came with two.

So maybe check the hose clamps?
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post #48 of 76 Old 09-21-2020, 04:04 PM Thread Starter
CaliYJ3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bruinjeeper View Post
It's a do everything while ur in there type job.

With u having a 2.5L ....one piece rear main seal. Just do it. Irregardless of if its leaking lol
I will add that to the list lol appreciate the info!
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post #49 of 76 Old 09-21-2020, 04:05 PM Thread Starter
CaliYJ3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by codyYJ View Post
Not sure if the leak could be something like this, but I just recently went through a coolant leak problem and I was way overthinking it. The coolant was mainly running down the lower radiator hose, hitting the dust shield, and then ending up on the frame rail in a similar pace to your leak. Also it was just running down the side of the block along the top of the oil pan.

Anyways, first thing I changed was the lower radiator hose clamp with a brand new one from parts store. No change.

Then changed lower radiator hose. No change.

Then changed water pump. No change.

Then changed thermostat housing. No change.

Then put in the UV dye and tried to figure out where it was coming from in dark with black light, but gave up. I was stumped. So had it towed to a shop.

Then I get the call that it is something simple. The hose clamp on the lower radiator hose was bad from the package.

I then pound my head against the wall and say you got to be kidding me. Obviously lots of money spent on unneeded parts and time. And I had a second brand new clamp I could have tried since the package came with two.

So maybe check the hose clamps?
Thanks! I will def to a tightness check. I just cant seem to see where the leak even starts.
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post #50 of 76 Old 09-22-2020, 10:55 AM Thread Starter
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I've been doing some digging on the freeze plugs. Easiest way seems to drop the tranny? How do I get the old plugs out? Recommendation on freeze plug kit?
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post #51 of 76 Old 09-22-2020, 11:34 AM
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I didn’t watch this but it’s probably not the worst example https://youtu.be/34C-tu5EMt0
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[size=“3”]Shackles & D-rings are different things.
Cranking IS turning over
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post #52 of 76 Old 09-22-2020, 05:34 PM Thread Starter
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Got the skid plate off. It’s an oily mess under here.
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post #53 of 76 Old 09-22-2020, 05:39 PM
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Got the skid plate off. It’s an oily mess under here.
I prefer to call it free rust proofing.

~YJOTM MAY '16, JULY '19~


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post #54 of 76 Old 09-22-2020, 05:42 PM Thread Starter
CaliYJ3
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I have found the leak!!! It looks like a freeze plug on the side of the motor. It’s shooting a small stream to the charcoal box and radiator overflow. Then dripping from there.
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post #55 of 76 Old 09-22-2020, 06:26 PM Thread Starter
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Here’s a photo of it
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post #56 of 76 Old 09-23-2020, 08:45 AM Thread Starter
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The photo is upside down btw.
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post #57 of 76 Old 09-23-2020, 12:05 PM Thread Starter
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post #58 of 76 Old 09-23-2020, 09:07 PM
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bingo
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post #59 of 76 Old 09-27-2020, 07:07 PM Thread Starter
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It has been a busy weekend. Got the driveline out to change the u-joint. Only to find out a previous owner did something strange. It looks like he had a u-joint that didn’t fit, so they grinded it to fit. Which probably caused it’s failure. After 3 trips to the auto store we got the right u-joint. We know it didn’t fit, because the first auto store gave us the same as the original (we ordered prior to pulling the driveshaft). We were able to get the freeze plug out and replaced. Haven’t filled it with coolant yet, because it has a 24 hour cure time for the sealant. Found a few possible air leaks, cut some ends off the hoses.

Few questions, there is a right angle on top of the valve cover that runs to the air box. I’m assuming that’s PVC IN correct? Then there is another fitting towards the front, that I’m assuming is PVC OUT? Should the IN be a check valve since there is oil in the air box? I think I might need to get a catch can.
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post #60 of 76 Old 09-28-2020, 06:06 AM
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Good work!

One of the rocker cover hoses leads to the air box This is the provision for providing filtered air to the motor crankcase- which is ventilated from a hose to a manifold barb. The manifold has more vacuum potential (lower static psi- actually “negative” psi to be vacuum- than the airbox which is nearly atmospheric pressure) and this creates a flow into the manifold.
Oil migrating to the airbox is not uncommon due to either blow-by, regular and/or sustained full-throttle low vacuum situations (likely frequent with a 2.5!) or a hydraulic engineering phenomenon that creates a pulsing vapor ‘cloud’ where vaporous droplets travel /towards/ the air flow and condense where the pressure drops. (white clouds of fuel standing 2” above a carburetor opening on a hotrod motor is an example of this weird thing)

Either way get the hoses right and don’t worry about the oil right now. That’s not going to effect anything you’re trying to do or fix at the moment. Once it’s running well you can worry about that.
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[size=“3”]Shackles & D-rings are different things.
Cranking IS turning over
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