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New 91 YJ to me..383 stroker!!

6K views 64 replies 12 participants last post by  cdnwillyg 
#1 ·
I just bought this stalled project YJ jeep and not into bogging, off roading okay, just love these jeeps not sure why???
This will be a "Mall Crawler" with attitude.
Any how it has a 4" suspension lift, and is all stock except for the engine, and clutch, it has the AX-15, NP231 transfer case, and Dana 35/30 diffs.
I know it has a little more hp and torque from stock and will be expect some driveline issues if not all to be on the weaker side.
I want to get the dual exhaust completed with an H tube and out to the back. I need to increase the tire size ...thinking to go with 33 on 15" wheels. Not sure what offset to get here? Any ideas??
Got lucky on the recovery winch as it is a Warn PowerPlant 12000 Dual HP...built in compressor only used to dent the front bumper!(not really needed on a Mall Crawler but looks awesome)
I got aftermarket seats for it and the tub is in really nice shape. Front could use some closer matching paint.
Here are a few pics:
 

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#4 ·
The reason for the dual exhaust is not for the additional hp it gives, I think I have enough of it now, but I want a deep throaty sound, not sure a single exhaust can give me that. What does your sound like with the 3" single?
Oh it's plenty deep... Check my build thread, or I can post some links later.. A few pages back from the end...
 
#5 ·
I can't make a tire/wheel combo recommendation till I know what part of the country you're in.
Here, the conditions are sandy with sharp rocks that like to take chunks out of the sidewall. Rain/ ice is almost never a factor here in the southwest.
Tires are best suited to local conditions both on & off road.
I'm going to assume once you take her off road, the trail bug is going to bite you and maybe you'll start doing more off-road exploration.
So where are you, not your address, just the region?
 
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#6 ·
One thing on that motor worries me. It looks like the carburetor return spring is a an extra long hardware store spring that is angled over to a convenient attachment point. If that spring binds or bounces off or breaks, you're stuck at wide open throttle. I would want to get a correct dual spring setup ASAP.
 
#9 ·
If you want mall crawler tires you need Nitto Terra Grapplers or Toyo Open Country MT tires.

Make sure you get them in a metric size with a 17"+ wheel for maximum effect.
 
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#11 ·
You're not wrong. But mall crawlers tend to like tiny sidewalls on aggressive-looking tires and big gay wheels.

I was commenting with a healthy dose of sarcasm.
 
#13 ·
From what I've learned on this forum, that sounds super expensive for an exhaust job.
 
#14 ·
I hope you like your outcome but you're spending money on the wrong things to start with IMHO. The money you're putting toward a not needed dual exhaust (for the sound) could be put toward an 8.8 rear because even at the mall you're gonna use that skinny pedal and blow that D35 apart with a 383 and 33's.

You do have a nice platform to start with, I just think you're headed the wrong way.

FWIW, we built my buddies CJ5 with a lightly tuned 350 running a 2-1 exhaust on 2" pipe with a flowmaster muffler and it has plenty of throaty sound.
 
#16 ·
Oh I'm with you guys but I'm not running the stroker with out an exhaust!!!:surprise: The drive train is on the list but want it road worthy to start...remember this was a stalled project not even sure of what I have. And I know that there are weak pieces to this puzzle but want something to drive as I build but thanks for the concern.:smile2:
 
#17 ·
Understandable. I'd probably try to squeeze duals in there, too.

And the D35 might last a bit if you baby it. I think that the 88s had the slightly stronger non-C Clip version of the D35. But even a lazy 383 at full roar is about double the torque output of a 4.2. Keep it under 3K rpms and easy on the stoplight launches if you want it to last til you can scrounge up an 8.8 rear axle.

Good luck & keep us posted on progress!
 
#18 ·
Got the jeep back and it now has 2.5" duals but no H pipe not enough room. :frown2: The exhaust note sounds okay but now other noises are detected from the engine.:surprise: Sounds like a rattle but could be just a bad tune and I need to replace the boosters in the carb for some reason they got melted??? Runs really rich! I'm hoping what I hear is just detonation because this guy was running purple farm gas in it.... not sure it has the 94 octane this girl needs. Oh well the story continues but all good!!!
 
#19 ·
The money you're putting toward a not needed dual exhaust (for the sound) could be put toward an 8.8 rear because even at the mall you're gonna use that skinny pedal and blow that D35 apart with a 383 and 33's.
Agreed! A good 383 will easily produce more torque than the axles can handle. Add some sticky tires and you're gonna be getting calls from NASA while they track the differential parts you launch without permission. Plan on installing stronger diffs!

383 needing high octane? Sometimes they do. The "old school" recipe to use a 400 crank and rods with 350 pistons often created an engine that liked to rattle. It's hard to beat this without tearing the engine down. Running a cooler T-stat may help. Running a rich mixture may help. Spending time working over the spark advance curves can help. 4 Ozs Marvel Mystery Oil to ten gallons gas can sometimes slow combustion just enough to help get around pinging or at least to make it so you don't need to buy expensive gas. Cam choice is a big part of building a 383 and aluminum heads can be a real benefit but the engine is already together. So the best answer IMO may be to switch to EFI or at least a computer controlled ignition. The computer can be adjusted to advance spark at one rpm, retard it at another, then advance it again. Mechanical / vacuum can never do this.

Oh, and along with the throttle spring you might want to move the coil to the engine. Mounting it on the body can create interference for audio equipment by forcing spark energy to use the body and ground straps to return to coil. It works, but just makes more sense to mount it on the engine. Also, is there a PCV valve? It looks like the RH valve cover is just vented to atmosphere and the LH cover has no breather? Please check this and install a proper PCV system with a filter on the second port if needed. The thought of leaving the valve covers open to allow dirt into the oil just makes me cringe.
 
#21 · (Edited)
Wow sounds like you know your 383 Strokers!! I need to look into the noise, not really sure where or what is causing it yet just noticed it when I pick the jeep up from muffler shop.
Coil will be moved never thought of that so thanks.( what return energy? Primary has it's own circuit) Yes there is a PCV valve coming off the front port of the carb. to the RH valve cover but no vent on LH cover.
Now on to the diffs, so from what I see/read there are a few options I can go with , a Super 35, Dana 44, or the Ford 8.8. 8.8 being the cheapest with the addition of disk brakes and LSD, Dana 44 harder to acquire, but is the Super 35 the easiest way to go? Oh cash is a concern too!
 
#27 ·
Now on to the diffs, so from what I see/read there are a few options I can go with , a Super 35, Dana 44, or the Ford 8.8. 8.8 being the cheapest with the addition of disk brakes and LSD, Dana 44 harder to acquire, but is the Super 35 the easiest way to go? Oh cash is a concern too!
Super 35 will be the most expensive and definitely not as easy as doing an 8.8 swap. 8.8 swap costs about $250 and you can do it in a single day. Heck, some guys here can get an 8.8 for $75. I wasn't that lucky.

The only real advantage the D44 has is extra ground clearance. The 8.8 hangs pretty low. You can mitigate that by shaving it, but that's pretty involved. I just know not to drive over rocks where my diff is.
 
#26 ·
I need some HELP......man I can't seem to find out what this jeep is made up from!!!
So I'm trying to figure out what kind of bellhousing this has but all the ones I have found are different. Mine has the starter and clutch fork one over the other were as all the ones I come across have them on opposite sides. And if anyone has an idea of what dust cover I need here that would be awesome.
 

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#33 ·
Got the new boosters in and checked for any other damage all good. Confirmed with Edelbrock that the jets in it are right, at least how it came new.
My concern is where did all the melted material go?? Engine has been run I'm sure as we loaded it up on to the trailer, not knowing the damage to the carb. and how much before I bought it?? How hot does it need to get to melt that pot metal...surprised nothing else is toast.
Just some info, Edelbrock doesn't sell boosters separate but The Carb Shop in MN, had them.
 

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#35 ·
I saw a test done on the web where they took a efi against a carb on the same engine and dynoed both, I'm assuming both tuned properly (if not then not much of a test).......the carb came out a head in Hp and torque not by much but ahead. You are right that a EFI system can have a lot less headaches but being retired what else am I going to do??
This jeep will work just fine for me under carburation, and I don't want to spend any money on stuff I really don't need.
But thanks for the input all interesting.
 
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