Need Advice/reference - Page 2 - JeepForum.com
Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools
post #16 of 26 Old 05-05-2015, 02:47 AM
Chrisnvegas
Web Wheeler
 
Chrisnvegas's Avatar
1992 YJ Wrangler 
 
Join Date: Dec 2012
Location: Nevada Territory
Posts: 8,316
Quote:
Originally Posted by phuzynutz View Post
You're right. I'm going to get 10w30. Thanks. Any specific brands you prefer?
I always use Valvoline. Have for years. However, many knowledgeable forum members use the cheap stuff from any discount store and have good results.

(I don't presently have a manual trans. I'm using a 32RH auto)

I usually ignore maintenance schedules and change oils way more frequently.
Just think how long a trans would last if you changed the oil once a year. Maybe every spring.
I also change my brake fluid once a year. I crack open the bleeders, and hang out letting gravity do the work. I watch the master and keep it topped off. Takes a while, but why not hang out in the garage on a nice day.

Sitting is really rough on fluids.

Some other stuff:

If you plan to do a lift or any modifications. Take your time and see how you will use your Jeep. We all use our Jeeps our way. What works for one, might not be a good fit for yours. Wheel it some while getting acquainted. See what you like about it and don't. Does it do what you want? Does it feel safe?
How is the ride? Too stiff, too soft or bouncy?
Does it drive well without pulling or wandering? How are the brakes?

Make a plan of how you want it to be. Read up and take your time. Understand that one modification will often lead to another.
Buying quality parts really seems to pay off when it comes to a Jeep. Quality doesn't mean high priced. There is some expensive crap out there.
Do lots of research and feel free to ask questions.

This is (IMHO) the best Jeep forum with some really knowledgeable people.


End the Ethanol Rip-Off
Chrisnvegas is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #17 of 26 Old 05-05-2015, 09:49 AM Thread Starter
phuzynutz
Registered User
1995 YJ Wrangler 
 
Join Date: Apr 2015
Location: Ararat
Posts: 28
Chrisnvegas, thanks for all of the advice. More valuable to me than you might think. Thanks alot.
phuzynutz is offline  
post #18 of 26 Old 05-05-2015, 10:56 AM
laybackman
Bikini Bridge Inspector
 
laybackman's Avatar
2010 JK Wrangler 
 
Join Date: Dec 2002
Location: Massachusetts
Posts: 7,271
This fixes the paint job issue!

https://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f260/...t-job-1428305/

Do you know what was good about the good old days? I wasn't good, And I wasn't old!

Senators and Congressman should wear uniforms like NASCAR drivers so we could identify their corporate sponsors....
laybackman is offline  
 
post #19 of 26 Old 05-05-2015, 10:58 AM
cojab
Registered User
 
cojab's Avatar
1993 YJ Wrangler 
 
Join Date: Oct 2010
Posts: 1,318
Quote:
Originally Posted by fishadventure
I used braided fishing line on mine. 30# test and only 6# diameter...
If going that route, many sporting goods places or hobby shops have a simple canvas sewing kit. It includes the awl and needle and wax thread. The waxed thread will help keep the water from getting through the needle holes.
Never thought to use braided fishing line but if I did I would throw some wax on it.
cojab is offline  
post #20 of 26 Old 05-05-2015, 12:19 PM
IA93Javert
Registered User
 
IA93Javert's Avatar
1999 TJ Wrangler 
 
Join Date: Aug 2014
Location: Cedar Rapids
Posts: 287
Garage
Quote:
Originally Posted by phuzynutz View Post
You're right. I'm going to get 10w30. Thanks. Any specific brands you prefer?
Lots of suggestions on the forum. I use a synthetic and change with my oil every 3K.

You can fix stupid....it's just a felony.

93 Olympic edition rebuild

To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
IA93Javert is offline  
post #21 of 26 Old 05-20-2015, 12:09 AM Thread Starter
phuzynutz
Registered User
1995 YJ Wrangler 
 
Join Date: Apr 2015
Location: Ararat
Posts: 28
Alright you guys, just going to follow up on what i have done.
  • Replaced oil
  • Replaced front and rear diff fluid
  • Replaced transmission fluid (IT LOOKED LIKE CHOCOLATE MILK!)
  • Sewed up various seams in the soft top (still considering buying a new one)
  • added bolts to transfer case lever (stupid clip was a joke)
  • Fixed error codes with O2 sensor (corroded connectors, just needed a little cleaning)
  • slightly repaired exhaust leak.

In addition to that, i also replaced the rear main seal. I was getting an oil leak once it was warmed up. It was coming from between the bellhousing and dust shield plate. I assumed it was the RMS. However, it's still leaking.

Also, it still grinds into reverse and sometimes 1st and 2nd. I found that if i hold in the clutch, let it roll backwards, and try to shift into reverse, it grinds. Maybe i just don't know what i'm doing lol.

Again, this is just a follow up on stuff. Thanks again for all of the help and advice. I love the jeep community. You guys are awesome.
phuzynutz is offline  
post #22 of 26 Old 05-20-2015, 12:44 AM
Drednot
Registered User
 
Drednot's Avatar
1991 YJ Wrangler 
 
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Phoenix
Posts: 3,810
Quote:
Originally Posted by phuzynutz View Post
......i also replaced the rear main seal. I was getting an oil leak once it was warmed up. It was coming from between the bellhousing and dust shield plate. I assumed it was the RMS. However, it's still leaking.

Also, it still grinds into reverse and sometimes 1st and 2nd. I found that if i hold in the clutch, let it roll backwards, and try to shift into reverse, it grinds. Maybe i just don't know what i'm doing lol.
Any time you have the rear main seal type of leak, there are a few things you need to check, or fix, before you go right for the gusto and do the rear main seal.

First, you need to service your pcv(ccv) system. It has to be operating properly so that the crankcase is under slight vacuum. If its not under vacuum, the crankcase pressure will force the oil past good seals. Many times, just fixing this will end the leaking.

Then, there are some other leaks that drain right to the area that you have leaking. The most common is the rear of the valve cover. It sometimes looks ok but it seeps past whatever gasket was there.

Another source of oil could be a cracked oil pressure sender, or the seal at the base of the distributor.

Check your pcv system and do your valve cover gasket. We all had to do it.

91 YJ Sahara, 4.0L, AX-15/NP231, D30/[email protected]
12 Cherokee 4x4,3.7L,42RLE/MP1522, D30M/[email protected]
Emission test=YES
"Non Vi Sed, Arte"
Drednot is offline  
post #23 of 26 Old 05-20-2015, 01:53 AM
gtg413i
Registered User
 
gtg413i's Avatar
2003 WJ 
 
Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: Bay Area
Posts: 1,827
not sure about your specific tranny (ax-5 maybe), but in mine, you need to shift to 4th or 5th first, then reverse and it won't grind. there's a reason about the gears being synched or not, but it's worth a shot.

Brian's Black Betty Build:
To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
gtg413i is offline  
post #24 of 26 Old 05-20-2015, 02:44 AM
ThreeToe
Registered User
1992 YJ Wrangler 
 
Join Date: Jan 2014
Location: Victoria
Posts: 73
Yeah. The ax15 doesn't have a syncro on the reverse gear, shift 4th then R. Also my trans hates 1st and 2nd but if you pull the shifter to the point of tension and hold it there without forcing it in for 1st and 2nd and just wait a second or two it will drop into gear on its own. I have a Ax 15 to rebuild and then I'll swap but for now I'm just patient.
ThreeToe is offline  
post #25 of 26 Old 05-20-2015, 06:38 AM
fishadventure
Registered User
 
fishadventure's Avatar
1989 YJ Wrangler 
 
Join Date: Jul 2013
Location: Morrisville
Posts: 6,771
Garage
I often conclude that what a lot of people assume is "gears grinding" has a lot more to do with cultural expectations.

We live in a world where we have touch screens (I'm on one now) for keyboards, automatic transmissions that operate partly by electrical actuation, heater/AC controls that are only buttons with no cables, and automated openers etc. One can't feel or hear, for example, that they hit a wrong 'key' because there is no tactile evidence of what is being done.

Then someone gets in a YJ and when the tranny shows evidence of its mechanical purpose and actions they think something is wrong. It's not. There's nothing wrong. It isn't doing magic somewhere down in there- it's actually physically moving mechanical parts that you can feel and hear.

I'm not making fun of anyone or anything, either. But it's like this: if a mechanic or a truck driver gets in my jeep they just drive it. The only comments are about rust or the seat belt receiver that sags to the floor. But if most others get in the driver's seat, they have trouble shifting, if they even get that far. I get asked, "where is reverse" as they try to move from 1st to reverse /diagonally/. It doesn't work of course. They think there is something wrong with the steering. "How come the blinker doesn't shut off?"

In another twenty years I probably won't have to worry about anyone stealing it by driving it away LOL

[size=3]Shackles & D-rings are different things.
Cranking IS turning over
fishadventure is offline  
post #26 of 26 Old 05-20-2015, 07:28 AM
JMark
Registered User
1988 YJ Wrangler 
 
Join Date: Apr 2004
Location: new york
Posts: 201
Quote:
Originally Posted by Chrisnvegas View Post
I'm not a paint expert, but friend of mine and forum member Tophog1
was talking with someone else a week ago about tough paint.
(I was just listening)
The name Dupont Imron (Elite) came up as a paint that lasts and has self healing properties.
Seems to be used in the commercial industry on Tractor Trailers and other commercial equipment.

http://www2.dupont.com/Coating_Solut...Brochure_E.pdf

And if you want to try the fishing line top repair, (it worked for my top and saved $$$)
Get some big needles from the sewing section at Wal-Mart.

Imron is very tricky to use - requires serious prep and you should be good with a spray gun. Also very toxic - I've used a lot of two-part urethanes over the years. I dislike Imron, and for the most part would not use a urethane on a Jeep anyway. I don't like the look particularly (looks plastic to me), and simple acrylic will be easier (and safer) to apply, and easier to touch up. I'm about to spray my JY and I just picked a standard auto industry color that I can buy rattle cans of, to make it all simple for touch-up etc. YMMV
JMark is offline  
Reply

Tags
advice

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now



In order to be able to post messages on the JeepForum.com forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name, your email address and other required details in the form below.

User Name:
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.

Password:


Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid e-mail address for yourself.



Email Address:
OR

Log-in











Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools
Show Printable Version Show Printable Version
Email this Page Email this Page



Posting Rules  
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On

 
For the best viewing experience please update your browser to Google Chrome