My Son Purchased a YJ - JeepForum.com
 22Likes
Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools
post #1 of 28 Old 03-18-2020, 10:31 PM Thread Starter
MacQ
Registered User
1991 YJ Wrangler 
 
Join Date: Mar 2020
Posts: 9
My Son Purchased a YJ

So my adult son purchased a 1991 YJ last week. He has always wanted an older Jeep and I also think he wanted something he and I can work on together.

My Jeep experience is limited. My dad had a Willy's Wagon back in the early '60s, but I was a young kid back then and didn't know squat. So all I have is general automotive knowledge (Toyota, Dodge, Chevy) to help the boy.

His jeep is not in too bad of condition. It has a non-OEM remanufactured engine with about 4000 miles on it. Everything else has 178K miles on it. I would call it a rattle-trap. LOL

The son has visions of this and that for the Jeep but I've told him that the first thing is to replace all the fluids (engine oil, tranny oil, t-case oil, and differential oils). Then go from there. The radiator and coolant is less than a year old and look good. Am I prudent in telling him this?

After fluids, the next thing would be the suspension and its components. Again, a wise line of thinking?

Looking to hear what you all think the process should be in getting this thing ready for hunting season this Fall.
Thanks!

Attached Thumbnails
87953485_10219514414703752_8302457720615731200_o.jpg  
MacQ is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #2 of 28 Old 03-19-2020, 04:10 AM
jkbrereton
Registered User
 
Join Date: Oct 2019
Posts: 79
You're on the right track. But inspect the frame for rust and cracks before messing with the suspension. Often the metal under the rubber body mount bushings will be rusted out. Frame rusts out in the rear where it goes over the tires and back. They sell replacement pieces. The leaf springs will probably be fine but bushings may need replacing

Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk
underscore and MacQ like this.
jkbrereton is offline  
post #3 of 28 Old 03-19-2020, 05:15 AM
StanF
Registered User
1995 YJ Wrangler 
 
Join Date: Feb 2013
Location: Austin
Posts: 2,473
Looks great. Good suggestion to look for rust first. Planning to keep it for 5-10 years? Start replacing all the wear items - or at least make a plan to replace them over time.

On my 95, I replaced almost every rubber part, seals, vacuum lines, bushings, soft brake lines, rubber fuel lines, etc. After 30 years, they are well past their prime, and since you just bought it, you don't know when or if they were ever replaced. Do this at the same time you do fluids.

After that, I'd focus on brakes, so you know you can stop. New pads, calipers, rotors, soft brake lines and possibly the master cylinder. Do all 3 axle seals on both axles at the same time, so you know your axle won't spit out oil on your new brake parts.

Steering and suspension components...ball joints, tie rod ends, leaf spring bushings, etc.

Drivetrain...engine, transmission, transfer case and axle shafts. Lots of seals in there, motor mounts, transmission mount, etc. You may want to address the CAD (Central Axle Disconnect) on the front Dana 30. After 30 years, there are a bunch of iffy vacuum lines, vacuum solenoids and switches in that system that may need repair.

Again, if you're keeping it for 5-10 years, it will make it much more enjoyable to drive and much more reliable to systematically replace the wear items. And safer. I found a bunch of iffy stuff done by previous owners when I was digging into my YJ.

There are a bunch of great threads here on Jeep Forum to help with any of these tasks.
underscore and MacQ like this.


To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.



To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
StanF is offline  
 
post #4 of 28 Old 03-19-2020, 05:33 AM
jtec
Web Wheeler
 
jtec's Avatar
2014 JK Wrangler 
 
Join Date: Oct 2017
Posts: 7,606
nice looking jeep.
I agree with your plan, build a solid foundation and with it being stock thats easy to get info on.
The fact that someone did not modify it to much means you don;t have to second guess the work.

Also I agree - And yes hunting and fishing are prioritys. knowing what the jeep will be used for helps you make decisions. A forest road , beach dunes or mall crawl..

A gift to get you started.
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1H_H...CUSfilmll/view

Its not the factory manual but if you need that just ask...
MacQ likes this.

When I see the price of OEM I think aftermarket.
When I see the quality of aftermarket I think OEM.
jtec is offline  
post #5 of 28 Old 03-19-2020, 07:27 AM
cpia84
Registered User
 
cpia84's Avatar
1990 YJ Wrangler 
 
Join Date: Jun 2019
Location: Goldsboro
Posts: 313
Garage
It looks like a solid starting point. I agree with changing all the fluids and then checking any point where rubber bushings are in contact with the frame. When changing fluids dont forget the differentals, transfer case and the transmission. Always make sure the fill plug can be removed prior to removing the drain plug.

After that need to determine if you are modifying/lifting the suspension or if you are going to keep it stock height, no issues with either but I would then be sure to check u-joints on the driveshafts, and then maintenance on the axles. There are plenty of write ups on basic maintenance so if you need something reference there.

If you have questions be sure to search the forum and ask for any clarification you need. Good luck with the build.
underscore and MacQ like this.


To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
cpia84 is offline  
post #6 of 28 Old 03-19-2020, 11:41 AM Thread Starter
MacQ
Registered User
1991 YJ Wrangler 
 
Join Date: Mar 2020
Posts: 9
Thanks for the input/help from all. StanF mentioned brakes and I would agree with him except the brakes system was completely serviced about 2000 miles ago (the receipt/work order was in the cubby hole). Nevertheless, we will give them a look when we inspect things like tie rods and ball joints.

Thanks again, everyone!
MacQ is offline  
post #7 of 28 Old 03-21-2020, 04:04 PM Thread Starter
MacQ
Registered User
1991 YJ Wrangler 
 
Join Date: Mar 2020
Posts: 9
Well, the son and I got a little deeper into his YJ today. First thing was to build a battery hold down and the original was broke. We will also need to get a new fuse power block or find a cover for the one in the engine compartment as it doesn't have one.

Went to check on the function of the CAD and discovered that somebody already did the bypass. Will pull the cover plate off of that in the near future to see what kind of job they did.

We then pulled out the seats all the carpeting to check for rust...not bad at all but will require some attention before it becomes bad.

Next, we crawled underneath to check for rust not bad at all. However, the skid plate(?) for the gas tank has been damaged and a big hole is rusting in that. Another fix for the near future. Frame and tub looked OK.

The rear door will not open. Son knew that before he bought it. Next time we will take off the cover to the mechanism (have seen a youtube vid on how to do that) and fix it.
jkbrereton likes this.
MacQ is offline  
post #8 of 28 Old 03-21-2020, 06:09 PM
fishadventure
Web Wheeler
 
fishadventure's Avatar
1989 YJ Wrangler 
 
Join Date: Jul 2013
Location: Morrisville
Posts: 7,310
Garage
Nice on the startup.

That gas tank skid plate is very important. It’s not just a skid, it holds the tank: it’s the mount, too.
MacQ likes this.

[size=3]Shackles & D-rings are different things.
Cranking IS turning over
fishadventure is offline  
post #9 of 28 Old 03-21-2020, 06:19 PM
bruinjeeper
Web Wheeler
 
bruinjeeper's Avatar
1995 YJ Wrangler 
 
Join Date: Jun 2013
Location: New West
Posts: 7,496
very nice YJ.

Clean but not too clean. I like it.

Those door uppers are a very sweet bonus! Everyone has already directed you in the right direction, no need for regurgitation just saying hi!
MacQ likes this.

Stop whining about the 'ride' - If your YJ ain't wrangling your soul free, then might I suggest you buy a stationwagon... at least you can fit all your bull**** in the back.
~YJOTM MAY '16~
~YJOTM JULY '19~
bruinjeeper is offline  
post #10 of 28 Old 03-21-2020, 06:26 PM
JeeperDon
Web Wheeler
 
JeeperDon's Avatar
1993 YJ Wrangler 
 
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Albuquerque
Posts: 8,936
Quote:
Originally Posted by MacQ View Post
Well, the son and I got a little deeper into his YJ today. Went to check on the function of the CAD and discovered that somebody already did the bypass. Will pull the cover plate off of that in the near future to see what kind of job they did.
I've always been a fan of keeping the CAD and just make it work right if it's not. A working CAD keeps the front diff from spinning the drive shaft and t-case internals all the time. That just wears out parts unnecessarily.
Boojo35 and MacQ like this.

'93 YJ, '02 GM 4.3V6, SOA, dual ARB's, 8.8+D30(WarnHubs), 4.88s, 35" BFG KM2s, AX15, NP231+4:1+SYE+2LO, York OBA, Warn M8000.
Web Admin for
To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.

To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
JeeperDon is offline  
post #11 of 28 Old 03-22-2020, 08:41 AM
StanF
Registered User
1995 YJ Wrangler 
 
Join Date: Feb 2013
Location: Austin
Posts: 2,473
Quote:
Originally Posted by JeeperDon View Post
I've always been a fan of keeping the CAD and just make it work right if it's not. A working CAD keeps the front diff from spinning the drive shaft and t-case internals all the time. That just wears out parts unnecessarily.
The whole CAD issue has been discussed a lot - do some searching for more details. I disagree with Don on this one. The TJ and XJ Dana 30 didn't have a CAD, and parts aren't wearing out on TJs or XJs.

To make the stock CAD work, it takes a bunch of vacuum lines, a vacuum switch and a vacuum actuator. The odds of something going wrong in a 25-35 year old Jeep is pretty high.

When you want 4x4, then you want it to work. That's typically going to be a bad time to crawl under the Jeep and figure out what vacuum line is leaking, as you're likely to be in water, mud, snow or a mixture of all 3.

Fix the CAD permanently and never look back (sounds like the OP already has this done). My personal favorite is the single long passenger shaft. This is what I did with my Dana 30. Locking the shift fork over for free is another good solution, but I've never personally tried it.

I never liked the idea of spending $200 on a manual cable system, but some people like that solution.
Attached Thumbnails
Jeep 4X4 vacuum diagram3.jpg  
MacQ likes this.


To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.



To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
StanF is offline  
post #12 of 28 Old 03-22-2020, 09:03 AM
fishadventure
Web Wheeler
 
fishadventure's Avatar
1989 YJ Wrangler 
 
Join Date: Jul 2013
Location: Morrisville
Posts: 7,310
Garage
Quote:
Originally Posted by JeeperDon View Post
I've always been a fan of keeping the CAD and just make it work right if it's noty.
I like the CAD. My vac harness needs replacing (about $60 for a brand new one) but it still works great. Plus I have an Aussie up front and I think disconnecting L/R is good, too.

I had a cable on the previous version of the YJ. I liked that too but it needed adjusting and wasn’t as invisible as the vac system.

I even have a TJ right side shaft I may never use.

I haven’t done it yet but I will convert the vac switch to a manual so can in essence unlock the front in 4WD Hi or Lo. The CAD for me just works well and I like the advantages even if I haven’t implemented them yet
MacQ likes this.

[size=3]Shackles & D-rings are different things.
Cranking IS turning over
fishadventure is offline  
post #13 of 28 Old 03-23-2020, 02:40 PM Thread Starter
MacQ
Registered User
1991 YJ Wrangler 
 
Join Date: Mar 2020
Posts: 9
Thanks all for the responses. Yes, it looks like the OP did the permanent bypass with a solid axle, slapped a cover plate on, and eliminated the rest (wiring, hoses, and shift motor).
MacQ is offline  
post #14 of 28 Old 03-23-2020, 05:42 PM
JeeperDon
Web Wheeler
 
JeeperDon's Avatar
1993 YJ Wrangler 
 
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Albuquerque
Posts: 8,936
Quote:
Originally Posted by MacQ View Post
Thanks all for the responses. Yes, it looks like the OP did the permanent bypass with a solid axle, slapped a cover plate on, and eliminated the rest (wiring, hoses, and shift motor).
In that case, if also not done already, you can swap out the t-case switch for one from a TJ. It's just a switch that gets closed when in 4wd to activate the dash light. You'll have to engineer a plug or way to get two wires connected to that switch, but it works fine.

It would be nice if you could get a PDF of the '91. I have one from '95 that matches my '93 well enough to get by.

Another way to get All of the vehicle Data is to go to AllDataDIY.com. You can subscribe to a vehicle for a fee for a year. I did that to my Jeep and the donor vehicle when I did my motor swap years ago.
MacQ likes this.

'93 YJ, '02 GM 4.3V6, SOA, dual ARB's, 8.8+D30(WarnHubs), 4.88s, 35" BFG KM2s, AX15, NP231+4:1+SYE+2LO, York OBA, Warn M8000.
Web Admin for
To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.

To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
JeeperDon is offline  
post #15 of 28 Old 03-23-2020, 07:54 PM
bruinjeeper
Web Wheeler
 
bruinjeeper's Avatar
1995 YJ Wrangler 
 
Join Date: Jun 2013
Location: New West
Posts: 7,496
4wd light:







For the plug two prong connector which works with the TJ switch posted in the first image:

Stop whining about the 'ride' - If your YJ ain't wrangling your soul free, then might I suggest you buy a stationwagon... at least you can fit all your bull**** in the back.
~YJOTM MAY '16~
~YJOTM JULY '19~
bruinjeeper is offline  
Reply

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now



In order to be able to post messages on the JeepForum.com forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name, your email address and other required details in the form below.

User Name:
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.

Password:


Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid e-mail address for yourself.



Email Address:
OR

Log-in











Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools
Show Printable Version Show Printable Version
Email this Page Email this Page



Posting Rules  
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On

 
For the best viewing experience please update your browser to Google Chrome