My first 4 link build - Page 2 - JeepForum.com
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post #16 of 58 Old 07-15-2019, 10:41 AM
87TPIYJ
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Almost forgot. The 12 ton HF jack stands and these were a life saver for doing my suspension.

Sumner ST-881 Hi Fold-A-Jacks with V-Head https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002N2I3BG..._b6jlDbF029AQV


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post #17 of 58 Old 07-15-2019, 11:30 AM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by Randonexplosion View Post
It's a little late but is there a reason that you didn't want to go with something like the Artec truss and mount the link brackets horizontally? I'm guessing it was the flexibility of being able to put your axle end vertical separation the way you wanted it.

Hopefully you will have enough room for the coilovers between the frame and tire with the wheel spacers. It gets tight very quickly.
Cost was part of it, flexibility was the main part though. It looked like most 8.8 trusses were designed to mount in a specific location and with the SYE, that location wouldn't work for me without modification. I figured if I have to modify something, I might as well make it from scratch since it'll be a lot cheaper and usually takes the same amount of time. It wouldn't function as a true truss but I hadn't really read anything that said the 8.8 really needed one either.

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Originally Posted by 87TPIYJ View Post
Almost forgot. The 12 ton HF jack stands and these were a life saver for doing my suspension.

Sumner ST-881 Hi Fold-A-Jacks with V-Head https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002N2I3BG..._b6jlDbF029AQV
Yeah I looked into some 12 ton jackstands but I also figured that would be $100 for one job and then I'd have to find a place to put them in my tiny garage. I do like the concept of the screw jacks though... it's a bit late for this project but I may look into getting a set of those things.


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post #18 of 58 Old 07-17-2019, 09:29 AM Thread Starter
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So the links are in, skid plates back on, and the axle is centered. I only checked full up and full bump last night but I've got enough travel to accomodate the travel on my 14" shock pretty easily. I did have to cut slots in my flat skid plate to accomodate the lower frame mounts. I also added a link truss support down to the diff housing. It's just welded for now but since the diff is cast, I plan to drill holes as well.

I did a test fit on the rear angled bump stop and it will fit very well on the frame and once I move it and drill new holes, it will contact the lower link nicely. I'll outline that later.

I'm really worried about that exhaust though. That looks like it's going to be a bear to route it and it's way too loud dumping underneath the jeep.

Just for sh*ts and giggles, I looked at what I've consumed during this process prior to mounting shocks and frenching in the shock towers:
6 - 4.5" flap discs
8 - 4.5" cutting wheels
5 - plasma cutter tips
5 lbs of welding wire
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IMG_20190710_195452.jpg   IMG_20190716_225802.jpg   IMG_20190716_225834.jpg   IMG_20190716_224725.jpg   IMG_20190716_224753.jpg  

IMG_20190716_224815.jpg   IMG_20190716_224823.jpg  


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post #19 of 58 Old 07-17-2019, 09:43 AM
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Oh yeah.... looking good. Exhaust can be tough with long arms. Can you sneak it between the links there on the passengers' side? you won't want it too close to the joints so you don't heat them up, but there may be just enough room there. I ended going over the upper link right after the tub steps up. You can kind of see what I mean in this pic.


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post #20 of 58 Old 07-17-2019, 10:27 AM Thread Starter
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Yeah I was thinking between the links might be tricky. I may just stick a downturn tip on it until I can figure it out but depends on how things play out and the amount of time I have.

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post #21 of 58 Old 07-17-2019, 11:04 AM
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Just make sure your Driveshaft does bind at full droop.

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post #22 of 58 Old 07-17-2019, 11:35 AM Thread Starter
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Just make sure your Driveshaft does bind at full droop.
That's some good advice. I've been mostly focused on full bump and pinion angle. The driveshaft was connected when I jacked the jeep up last night but that doesn't mean the driveshaft didn't bind up at the double cardan joint. I'm pushing the limits of length but I think it's within the tolerance that Adam's Driveshafts recommends. I know I still need to check brake lines since the rear calipers aren't connected but that's part of the next days work of hooking all this crap back up and re-routing brake and fuel lines.


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post #23 of 58 Old 07-17-2019, 09:55 PM Thread Starter
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Well I'm glad I didn't put too much effort into gaining clearance for both tires at full bump because full bump during flex is going to be more restrictive with tires. Full droop will definitely bind up the driveshaft and probably even come close to pulling the driveshaft out so I may be running a limiting strap in the center as well as the ends.

The brake calipers are currently sitting where I was originally planning to put my coilovers on the aft side of the axle. So my question is this... Should I work to get the shocks on top of the axle to maximize the width of the mounts or run them a little more inboard to keep them more in line with the upper mount? They're already going to be angled backwards a bit. Running them on top would angle them into the body as well. I'm thinking this is a good thing but not sure because very few people talk about shock angle and focus more on the link geometry.
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post #24 of 58 Old 07-18-2019, 03:51 AM
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Since you arenít stretching the rear it may
make more since to run 12Ē CO. With the shorter links angles can get bad quick. They will also package easier. You are going to be surprised how little room you have at flex. The longer your CO the farther that upper tire will bury itself into the wheel well towards the CO.

I prefer mounts on top of the axle so itís out of harms way and not putting a moment on the tube, but either way will work fine.

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post #25 of 58 Old 07-18-2019, 07:30 AM
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I went on top with mine as well. Packaging everything while flexing is tough. I ended up cutting 2" out of my frame rail to fit a 16" travel air shock. I would have had to back half it to fit a CO.

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post #26 of 58 Old 07-18-2019, 07:56 AM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by 87TPIYJ View Post
Since you arenít stretching the rear it may
make more since to run 12Ē CO. With the shorter links angles can get bad quick. They will also package easier. You are going to be surprised how little room you have at flex. The longer your CO the farther that upper tire will bury itself into the wheel well towards the CO.

I prefer mounts on top of the axle so itís out of harms way and not putting a moment on the tube, but either way will work fine.
Good point about keeping the shocks out of harms way on top. Although I'm not sure I understand the concept of the shorter CO. Unless I run a super short CO that will ultimately sit below the top edge of the tire, all CO's are going be in the way of the tire at full stuff.

I don't think my links are that short unless we're comparing to people with 105+ wheelbase. I've pushed my frame mounts so far forward which is why those frame mounts look like aliens. My links are about 31-32" long and if I level the body and jack one axle up over 30" higher than the other side, the only thing that binds up is the driveshaft. The links barely even look like they've moved from the center of their mounts.

Quote:
Originally Posted by daddyjeep87 View Post
I went on top with mine as well. Packaging everything while flexing is tough. I ended up cutting 2" out of my frame rail to fit a 16" travel air shock. I would have had to back half it to fit a CO.
What axle/width are you running? I've currently got an 8.8 which is 5/8" shorter in width than stock but I've got 3" of wheel spacers and 3.5" of additional backspacing on my wheels so I'm pretty much at the equivalent of a 66"/JK axle width. I've always assumed I'm going to have to french the shock towers into my frame but I've never ready anything that would lead me down the road of having to back half the jeep in order to get clearance.


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post #27 of 58 Old 07-18-2019, 08:05 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Waternut View Post

What axle/width are you running? I've currently got an 8.8 which is 5/8" shorter in width than stock but I've got 3" of wheel spacers and 3.5" of additional backspacing on my wheels so I'm pretty much at the equivalent of a 66"/JK axle width. I've always assumed I'm going to have to french the shock towers into my frame but I've never ready anything that would lead me down the road of having to back half the jeep in order to get clearance.
I'm running a 65" WMS Ford 9". Lots of articulation is where you run in to problems. As 97TPIYJ suggested, going with a shorter CO would help, but who wants to do that, right? Having shock hoops in the rear gave me more flexibility to mount them at the angle I wanted. I spent a lot of time articulating the suspension and measuring to get to where everything was happy. I but a bolt in the upper and lower mounts and ran string between them so I could measure off of the certerline of the shock.

You may have a 66" WMS, but you can't run your lower shock mounts out as far which isn't helping you either.

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post #28 of 58 Old 07-18-2019, 08:09 AM
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As mentioned above - 14" travel shocks sound long unless you're going to cut into the top of the wheel well and attach the top end of the shock to a hard cage. I bet 12" would fit better.

This might help:

Use lower shock mounts like these from Genright:



Angle your shocks back up into the rear corner of the wheel wells like this:



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post #29 of 58 Old 07-18-2019, 08:13 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by StanF View Post

Use lower shock mounts like these from Genright:
This would work if his calipers were relocated. That is what is driving a lot of the problem.

I came across a pic of my suspension development.


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post #30 of 58 Old 07-18-2019, 08:17 AM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by daddyjeep87 View Post
I'm running a 65" WMS Ford 9". Lots of articulation is where you run in to problems. As 97TPIYJ suggested, going with a shorter CO would help, but who wants to do that, right? Having shock hoops in the rear gave me more flexibility to mount them at the angle I wanted. I spent a lot of time articulating the suspension and measuring to get to where everything was happy. I but a bolt in the upper and lower mounts and ran string between them so I could measure off of the certerline of the shock.

You may have a 66" WMS, but you can't run your lower shock mounts out as far which isn't helping you either.
Yeah I understand I can't mount the shocks out that far but it does give the tire some extra clearance from the springs. I do like the string concept and I could probably use tape to simulate where the best place for the shocks mounts should be. I was fiddling with it last night and for the first time on this build I was totally stumped. Just felt like too many unknowns. Not sure where to mount the lower shock mounts which dictates where the upper shock mounts need to go which dictates where I need to cut the frame.


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