Mount electric fuel pump on '89 YJ - JeepForum.com
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post #1 of 19 Old 02-15-2020, 12:39 PM Thread Starter
vkbeaudreau
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Mount electric fuel pump on '89 YJ

Hello,


I currently run a 4.2L '89 YJ with the mechanical fuel pump and Carter carb. I am installing a Holley Sniper EFI system with the electric fuel pump (also the Hyperspark CD box, coil, and distributor).

My question is: where is the recommended location for installing the in-line fuel pump with the 2 required fuel filters? The documentation says that it must be installed below the level of the fuel tank, but that means it would have to be under the carriage. The frame space is pretty tight with the steel brake and fuel lines, so mounting it there seems not an option. Does anyone have any ideas on the best placement?

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post #2 of 19 Old 02-16-2020, 06:47 AM
fishadventure
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Frame rail where the factory fuel filter is located.
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post #3 of 19 Old 02-16-2020, 08:47 AM
jbolty
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I have mine mounted to the floor protected by the skid plate
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post #4 of 19 Old 02-16-2020, 08:58 AM
timatoe
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Mine is on the driver side frame rail above the skid.
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post #5 of 19 Old 02-16-2020, 09:54 AM
jay-h
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Mine is mounted on the skidplate. It's been about 6 years and i have not had any trouble.

I worry about mounting any lower, because if a line ruptures you can have a siphon effect. Not good.

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post #6 of 19 Old 02-16-2020, 11:03 PM
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I welded a plate to frame rail above T-case skid plate and attached it there. Hind site being 20/20 I wish I'd just bought one to put in fuel tank. Pic attached:






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post #7 of 19 Old 02-17-2020, 07:40 AM
Waternut
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The premise behind mounting low is because electric fuel pumps are good at pumping/pushing fluid but they aren't very good at sucking/pulling fluid. If they are mounted too high, you'll get air in the line and/or the pump will have to work harder and either will lead to it overheating and burning out prematurely.

Mechanical pumps get away with pulling/pushing fuel at low pressures reliably because they're just a diaphragm that's activated by a lobe on the crankshaft so there is nothing to get hot.
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post #8 of 19 Old 02-17-2020, 02:51 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks all! The fuel filter is installed near to the carb on this one (not sure if that is factory or not - for sure the wiring is not factory ). I took all your advice and decided the best option for me was to install it on the top of the Trans skid plate. plenty of room and it installs securely. I do worry about dealing with it whenever the trans needs work, but i guess I can deal with it like this for now.

I have the pump installed and everything else is done. Now I just need to find switched power on the fuse block that works in "run" and "crank".
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post #9 of 19 Old 02-18-2020, 04:53 PM
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Here's a tip. On my old CJ, I put a pump in a less than ideal position, and it did not seem to prime as noted by the post above about vacuum*. I pulled the fuel hose off the carb, and using one of those cheap
plastic 'gas siphons' put just a small amount of vacuum. That did the trick, after that initial step, the pump always delivered.

*This was a much lower pressure (carb) pump than the FI pumps. Never had to do that with the FI specific pump.

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post #10 of 19 Old 02-18-2020, 05:53 PM
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Not saying for sure but my hypothesis is that they want the fuel pump mounted low to prevent drain back to the tank from the fuel pump in order to prevent it from losing its prime which can cause premature pump failure. It tank fuel pumps etc. have check valves in them to prevent this.

If you cannot fix it with a hammer then it has to be an electrical problem.
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post #11 of 19 Old 02-19-2020, 08:03 AM Thread Starter
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I got everything installed and was able to start the jeep last night. Let it warm up and adjusted the throttle down to 850RPM. Looked good up to that point. Then I found that I couldn't turn it off!

Pulled both battery cables and finally had to pull the ignition fuse (have a fuse adapter with a pigtail). Maybe the fuse adapter is the problem, but I thought that port was switched, so maybe the problem is somewhere else. Will triple-check for a short.

btw - that fuel pump is loud - i know other folks have mentioned that, but definitely noticeable at idle.
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post #12 of 19 Old 04-03-2020, 12:45 PM
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Which Sniper system did you install? I have a '90 YJ and am considering the Sniper EFI BBD. Talked to Holley since the years they show for the BBD are 71-86 CJs not the YJ. The tech said the main difference between the BBD and the 2300 is the pull on the throttle linkage. Straight down on the BBD and toward the firewall on the 2300. Just wanted confirmation from someone who has installed the BBD on a YJ 4.2.
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post #13 of 19 Old 04-06-2020, 07:06 AM Thread Starter
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Hey! I installed the BBD model. The year doesn't matter as much as the engine does. I would like to see Holley modify their marketing to include 258ci 4.2L rather than just going by year. I will say that while the engine is the same, the fuel tank seems to be different between the late model CJs and the YJs. Holley's in-tank fuel pump (and their replacement fuel tank) for the CJs don't seem to be compatible with the YJ - at least that's what they told me. Too bad - that external fuel pump is freaking loud!

I went with the full Hyperspark ignition kit as well - Distro, CD ignition box, and Coil. The installation of it all went fairly smoothly. Taking my time, it took me a couple of days to get everything located and mounted. Since I ripped out pretty much all of my vacuum lines, I mounted the ignition box under the battery tray and the coil on the firewall just above and to the right of the tray. That made the cabling to the distro pretty easy. The box is too large to mount under the reservoir tanks like the original was.

It's running pretty well, but I'm still looking to dial it in better. Their documentation is very general. For instance, the BBD product is marketed for a Jeep CJ, but it doesn't talk about CJ specific parameters - like recommended timing for idle, cruise, and Wide Open Throttle. Maybe there is a way to determine what those should be, but I don't know it so I'm working on trial and error. My rig seems to do OK with using 30 degrees for Cruise. But if I use that for WOT I get crazy knocking. Setting to 18 for WOT reduces that pretty much, but I don't notice any real power either (it's a jeep - maybe there isn't supposed to be a power boost - i'm still learning).

My other problem is that the tach input from the EFI harness doesn't seem to work - at least I don't notice any voltage coming through it when connected to my multimeter. Haven't contacted Holley yet, though.



Quote:
Originally Posted by strbk5756 View Post
Which Sniper system did you install? I have a '90 YJ and am considering the Sniper EFI BBD. Talked to Holley since the years they show for the BBD are 71-86 CJs not the YJ. The tech said the main difference between the BBD and the 2300 is the pull on the throttle linkage. Straight down on the BBD and toward the firewall on the 2300. Just wanted confirmation from someone who has installed the BBD on a YJ 4.2.

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post #14 of 19 Old 04-06-2020, 07:44 AM Thread Starter
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I went back and read through my previous posts on this and have a few thoughts.

First, thanks to all who helped out! Your assistance was invaluable.

I mounted the fuel pump on TOP of the transmission shield. I used self-tapping screws that fit in the included mounting bracket holes, so it was pretty easy. Putting it in that location keeps it at the proper height and removes worry about getting it knocked around should I go off-road. The 2 fuel filters fit there as well. does give an extra consideration though if I have to work on the transmission. Would much rather have had a intank fuel pump, but couldn't find one to fit the tank (any suggestions are welcome).

The feedback problem where I had a run-on engine was solved by installing a 1AMP diode inline with the alternator signal wire. My alternator has three wires - 2 are power (RED) and 1 is a smaller brown - that's the one for the diode. Personally, I think this is a hack - there has to be a better way of keeping that run-on problem at bay - or maybe I messed something up that required the hack. Very possible.

Had initially set the idle RPM to 850. After running it a bit, that seemed a little high. It would pull the jeep pretty hard in 1 and 2 gears. Dropping it to 650 makes it want to stall a bit when taking off accelerator. I'm at 750 now - still playing with it.

When connecting all the vacuum lines, somehow I missed a couple of things. I neglected the EGR and left a manifold port open. Didn't find that until a few days ago. Funny thing is, it actually runs a little worse with the EGR connected and the unused manifold port blocked! I need to check the 5-port ported vacuum switch (CTO) or just replace that with a new 2-port (i'm running the original one).

I mentioned the tach signal earlier. That's an inconvenience. I traced the wires from the tach gauge back and think I have the proper signal wire in the engine bay, but the tach still doesn't show anything. Annoying.

I haven't decided if/where to mount the Holley display module. I removed the AC unit so I have plenty of space to put a little plate under the dash - just haven't done it yet. I would like it on a slide tray so I can tuck it out of view but that is beyond my humble capabilities.

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post #15 of 19 Old 04-06-2020, 11:44 AM
Chrisnvegas
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When you get tired of the loud fuel pump, switch to a Walbro. Almost silent.
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