Major Repair, Mean Max's AX-15 Rebuild QUESTION THREAD!!!! - Page 13 - JeepForum.com
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post #181 of 212 Old 08-08-2016, 08:38 AM
ktrip
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Originally Posted by bobjp View Post
So your input bearing only made noise when the clutch was pressed and the transmission was in gear? Not in neutral or with the clutch out?



I have heard the noise now only twice while in neutral and very rarely it won't happen when in gear. But 95% of the time switching in and out of gear while parked it is like flipping a light switch.



Yes, put it on jack stands and ran it so I could pinpoint where it was coming from. Another thing it could be is one of the springs on the clutch disc. Had that happened one time and didn't realize that's where it was coming from until I replaced the clutch. It was loose and was rattling around

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post #182 of 212 Old 08-23-2016, 04:55 PM
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Originally Posted by Opihi59 View Post
Well, remember I have not heard the noise. The quality of the noise could be more likely to help narrow things down. For years I used a floor jack with a cradle I welded up to hold the transmission in place, and maneuvered that around. It worked for me for years. Just recently though I did 2 clutches in 4 X 4s in WA state for my kids, and oldest son bought a transmission jack from Horror Freight for the job(s). It was just an amazing tool and cheap as well since it was on sale; it made all the difference in the world, so I suppose I am now spoiled and will likely buy my own, but out here in the Sandwich Isles there is no China Freight, and transmission jacks cost me a whole lot more. I'm not getting younger but I can still bench a lot more than I weigh, but it is awkward trying to do a precision alignment while holding up a heavy weight and all the blood has drained out of your arms like some sustained isometric exercise from hell.

Enter the alignment dowels........I have made a set of these for all the various and sundry transmission jobs I have done and saved them in a drawer for the next time, and have a pile in different lengths and threads. The idea here is to have something guide the front of the transmission into place for better alignment, while also taking the weight of the transmission off of things like clutch plate center, pressure plate fingers, etc. All you have to do is support the back end of the transmission and slide it home. I leave the transmission in gear so I can turn the output shaft a bit if the clutch splines do not align with the input shaft splines. I never leave the back end of the transmission unsupported. I put the dowels in the widest apart bolt holes, but a photo is worth a lotta beans here. Blue tape on the dowels just to make them show up in the photo.









I cut a little slot in the end for a screwdriver tip if needed to unscrew them, but this is a bit excessive since you could always grab with a pair of pliers. I also put a little chamfer on the ends of them too. The length I find that works best for YJ/TJ is 4-4 1/2". I don't use all-thread since the threads act like a file on the bell housing, I just get long bolts out of my spare "Box-'O-Bolts" and cut off the heads. The first time you use this trick, you'll see the value. Once I get the transmission mated, I put in a few other bellhousing bolts and snug them up, then pull out my dowels and put in the proper bolts.

So if you do end up dropping the trans again and replacing the clutch, try the alignment dowel trick, and strongly consider a proper transmission jack. They can be rented too. Luk clutch kit, cast TOB, etc. I think that will fix your problem.


I pulled the trans today and found that the center section of my clutch disc between the springs was broken out on just the engine side. This adds up to making the noise that I hear under the conditions described.


The throw out bearing and pilot bearing are not damaged.


I must have over stressed the clutch disc on assembly.


Unfortunately, when I drained the transmission, I found the drain plug magnet covered in metal flakes and the thick goop that metal flakes mixed with oil typically make. Have you seen this after a rebuild; in particular a rebuild including replacing some gears? I replaced both fifth gears (the original reason for the rebuild) and second gear (I chipped 2 teeth during rebuild). Is it typical for gears to wear in? Especially if you mix an old gear with a new one as is the case with my second gear?

97 TJ sport.
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post #183 of 212 Old 08-23-2016, 05:05 PM
Opihi59
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I don't think I'd go nuts about metal on the magnet as you describe. This may just be from the new gears meshing in with their partners. I'd change the oil and keep driving it. Change out your clutch plate, and don't let the transmission hang on the splines. Use the alignment dowels as pictured and a transmission jack like you can get real cheaply from China Freight, it will make all the difference in the world.
After a couple hundred miles further break in, change your tranny lube again.

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Quote:
Originally Posted by Brian4.2 View Post
We will be going Metric every inch of the way.
Quote:
Originally Posted by 40dog View Post
yes I'm a some guy and have always put gasket sealer on my surfaces before mating
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You should go to Pirate. I hear they are real smart over there. You'd fit right in.
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post #184 of 212 Old 08-28-2016, 09:24 PM
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I just finished my tranny install after following Mean Max's write-up. Everything went smoothly, and it shifts great through gears 1-4 and reverse, but the problem is it's only a 4 speed now. It won't go into 5th at all. It doesn't matter whether it's running or not. The shifter moves to the right as it should, just doesn't go up into 5th. Stupid me, I should have bench tested it first . I've read over the rebuild thread a few times, and I still can't figure out what I did wrong. I bought this tranny used from Craigslist, and the 4th gear synchro was the only thing that stood out to me when I did the rebuild. This could have been an existing problem, but like I said, I never bench tested it. I've done some googling, and found problems shifting to 1st, 3rd, and 5th, slipping out of 5th, 5th acting like neutral, etc., but I haven't read anything that sounds like the problem I'm having.

Any ideas?

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post #185 of 212 Old 08-28-2016, 09:31 PM
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Best thing you can do is get back under there and have a look. You can drop the transfer case and pull off the rear housing and get to all the 5th gear assembly without pulling out the transmission again.
But it sounds like an shift rail interlock issue could be possible, but only you know if you pulled those or have issues there. You could have an issue with the 5th synchro tabs that are blocking the shift hub, etc, etc etc. Time to take a look at it.

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Quote:
Originally Posted by Brian4.2 View Post
We will be going Metric every inch of the way.
Quote:
Originally Posted by 40dog View Post
yes I'm a some guy and have always put gasket sealer on my surfaces before mating
Quote:
Originally Posted by Virjeep View Post
You should go to Pirate. I hear they are real smart over there. You'd fit right in.
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post #186 of 212 Old 03-24-2017, 12:39 PM
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My trans needs new synchros. How can you tell when the synchro hubs also need to be replaced?

Does this look like a quality kit?
http://m.ebay.com/itm/281419564921?r...&ul_noapp=true
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post #187 of 212 Old 03-24-2017, 07:40 PM
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Only worry about the synchro hubs if you see a crack in the body, or if the teeth around the perimeter are chewed up. As far as the synchro function of the hub goes, the brass is very soft compared to the hardened steel synchro hub taper it rides on, and the yellow metal will wear much much faster.

Honestly cannot tell you about quality of the rebuild kit, I have not used this one. It does have a nice assortment of stuff, but other than that, cannot competently comment.

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Quote:
Originally Posted by Brian4.2 View Post
We will be going Metric every inch of the way.
Quote:
Originally Posted by 40dog View Post
yes I'm a some guy and have always put gasket sealer on my surfaces before mating
Quote:
Originally Posted by Virjeep View Post
You should go to Pirate. I hear they are real smart over there. You'd fit right in.
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post #188 of 212 Old 03-27-2017, 08:35 AM
sheza65
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Thanks Opihi59.

The kit I mentioned above has synchros by Synchroking. The seller told me the bearings are Nachi and SKF branded. Which, from doing a little research, appear to be quality bearings, correct? If so, I'll make the purchase.
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post #189 of 212 Old 03-27-2017, 09:25 AM
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Yes, those are legitimate bearing manufacturers. I have no inside knowledge on those synchros though. I just use a different kit that I'm sure I've posted into this thread somewhere, or in other threads. I'm not stumping for any particular vendor, source, or product. I just go thru Transparts warehouse on ebay, seller's name is acerl I believe. I have had no issues w any of the kits I have ordered from them.

Congrats on venturing into your own rebuild. Just pay real close attention to the orientation of the 3/4 shift sleeve orientation. It has a front/rear orientation but the marking is very very subtle. Just engrave in it front or rear and put it back together that way. Take a lot of detailed photos, put parts into labeled zip lok bags, etc. If you have problems w shift interlock pins/balls etc look at my thread on this in the FAQ.
Idiom likes this.

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Quote:
Originally Posted by Brian4.2 View Post
We will be going Metric every inch of the way.
Quote:
Originally Posted by 40dog View Post
yes I'm a some guy and have always put gasket sealer on my surfaces before mating
Quote:
Originally Posted by Virjeep View Post
You should go to Pirate. I hear they are real smart over there. You'd fit right in.
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post #190 of 212 Old 03-27-2017, 11:31 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Opihi59 View Post
Yes, those are legitimate bearing manufacturers. I have no inside knowledge on those synchros though. I just use a different kit that I'm sure I've posted into this thread somewhere, or in other threads. I'm not stumping for any particular vendor, source, or product. I just go thru Transparts warehouse on ebay, seller's name is acerl I believe. I have had no issues w any of the kits I have ordered from them.

Congrats on venturing into your own rebuild. Just pay real close attention to the orientation of the 3/4 shift sleeve orientation. It has a front/rear orientation but the marking is very very subtle. Just engrave in it front or rear and put it back together that way. Take a lot of detailed photos, put parts into labeled zip lok bags, etc. If you have problems w shift interlock pins/balls etc look at my thread on this in the FAQ.
Hey Opihi! How's retirement treating you? Glad you chimed in. I've tried getting in touch with Max for a while and haven't had any luck. I hope you're enjoying the retirement but I don't know where you go when you are already living in paradise!

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post #191 of 212 Old 03-27-2017, 03:02 PM
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Try Henderson, KY. Just here for a visit, then going back to isolation on the rock in the middle of the Pacific where you can't get anything but sunburn. Working harder though in retirement than I had expected, Jeep projects stacked up since the house needed much attention. Cheers!

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Quote:
Originally Posted by Brian4.2 View Post
We will be going Metric every inch of the way.
Quote:
Originally Posted by 40dog View Post
yes I'm a some guy and have always put gasket sealer on my surfaces before mating
Quote:
Originally Posted by Virjeep View Post
You should go to Pirate. I hear they are real smart over there. You'd fit right in.
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post #192 of 212 Old 07-19-2017, 01:08 PM
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Because of photobucket the photo are all broken in the write up

Would highly appreciate a way to fix it. Was hoping to take apart my ax15 and been keeping this a reference and now that I have time the photos break!
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post #193 of 212 Old 07-19-2017, 01:50 PM
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I was afraid that would happen to Max's threads and too many others here (and other forums for bikes and British Seagull outboards that I use that are as helpful as this one). Already have seen too many valuable pics all over different sites locked up by Photobucket. Bastards!!!
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post #194 of 212 Old 07-19-2017, 02:42 PM
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Originally Posted by bmiller64 View Post
Because of photobucket the photo are all broken in the write up

Would highly appreciate a way to fix it. Was hoping to take apart my ax15 and been keeping this a reference and now that I have time the photos break!
So, this doesn't help get the pictures back, but I found a great set of youtube videos showing an entire teardown and rebuild. I saved it for when I get ready to do it. Maybe you might find it helpful:

Part 1:
Part 2:
Part 3:
Part 4:
Part 5:
Part 6
Part 7:

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post #195 of 212 Old 10-03-2017, 01:22 PM
coop2729
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Transmission won't shift from 5th down to 4th gear

I was asked to post here by another member with my issue. I have a 99 TJ with a 5spd AX-15. I removed the transmission and rebuilt it several weeks ago. I was having issues shifting into third, second and first gear. I bought a kit off eBay for the rebuild. I walked through step by step and took many pictures as well as watched a few videos. I replaced all the syncros as well as bearings. I replaced the clutch and re-installed the tranny. Every gear shifts very smooth now but the only problem I'm having is it will not shift down from 5th gear into 4th. I have to put it in third and then shift back up to 4th. It does downshift stopped with clutch in and it will downshift moving if I slow way down to like 15-20mph. To me this sounds like a syncro problem but I'm not very experienced and was looking for ideas before I ripped it back apart. The kit I bought came with syncros that were all back cut except for one that was cut on both sides, I was wondering if that could cause this issue if put on the wrong gear as it came with no directions. I'm not familiar with exactly what's going on inside the tranny as it downshifts from 5th to 4th so even if I were to pull it apart I'm not exactly sure what I would be looking for that would cause this issue aside from checking the syncros. Any advice, tips or information would be greatly appreciated.

Justin
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