Leaking around slip yoke - JeepForum.com
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post #1 of 13 Old 10-11-2021, 02:58 PM Thread Starter
heath8635
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Leaking around slip yoke

Please help. Let me list the things I have done. I have changed seal about 5 times 2 of them was from jeep. I have changed the cone twice and the bushing in the cone twice also. Both new universal joints. I have made sure the vent tube was clear and able to breathe. I have put it on ramps and put it in gear while engine running and crawled up under it and no vibration. I also made sure slip yoke was smooth and clean. Still it drips fluid out of out put shaft on transfer case.

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post #2 of 13 Old 10-11-2021, 03:23 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by heath8635 View Post
Please help. Let me list the things I have done. I have changed seal about 5 times 2 of them was from jeep. I have changed the cone twice and the bushing in the cone twice also. Both new universal joints. I have made sure the vent tube was clear and able to breathe. I have put it on ramps and put it in gear while engine running and crawled up under it and no vibration. I also made sure slip yoke was smooth and clean. Still it drips fluid out of out put shaft on transfer case.
Put a micrometer or calipers up to the slip yoke (the machined part, diameter R in the pic)) and see what it measures. Spec is 1.5". Don't know what the tolerance is, but but I would imagine it's pretty tight. Only reason I'm suggesting is it's the only part of the assembly you seem to have not changed, so I don't know what else it could be.

Source: https://www.dennysdriveshaft.com/p33...eep_np231.html



Edit: I just checked mine that I still have floating around and it came to 1.5025". So to be safe, I would consider 1.5000 the minimum acceptable OD

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post #3 of 13 Old 10-11-2021, 03:23 PM
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...disregard.

Thought we were dealing with an SYE. My apologies. Carry on

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post #4 of 13 Old 10-11-2021, 07:47 PM
Boojo35
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Maybe the yoke itself leaks. I will try to explain this clearly. The inside of the yoke is splined where it slides over the t-case output shaft. In order for these splines to be machined that hole with the splines in the yoke is open all the way through in the machining process. After the machining is done there is either a cap installed or it is welded shut. The cap or the weld would be facing the u-joint and easier to see with the u joint removed. These can leak over time and can be kinda hard to figure out. When this happens the fluid is not really leaking around the seal, it is coming down the splines and leaking out of the center of the yoke by the u-joint where that hole was capped back off. Check it out. Maybe, maybe not.

If you cannot fix it with a hammer then it has to be an electrical problem.
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post #5 of 13 Old 10-12-2021, 12:22 PM Thread Starter
heath8635
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Thank you for all the info. I will drop the drive shaft Thursday or Friday when I’m off and I post what I find on the measurements and the leaking around the splines.
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post #6 of 13 Old 10-22-2021, 02:52 PM Thread Starter
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Thank you I finally got time off work so I dropped the drive shaft. The slip yoke measured 1.502. So Iím really not sure.
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post #7 of 13 Old 10-22-2021, 02:54 PM Thread Starter
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I also checked the back of the yoke and held it up to the light and couldnít see any light through it. Now my mind has been blown lol. Iím at a loss. Thank you for all the help
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post #8 of 13 Old 10-22-2021, 04:59 PM
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Time for an SYE.

It probably would have been cheaper to start with that rather than getting all the other seals, parts and new quarts of fluid you've been using.

When I had the stock slip yoke, it leaked as well. Never enough to drip, but it kept the underside of the Jeep coated in ATF. The design has leaks built into it, in my opinion.

Granted, it seems that my SYE also leaks, but it's the housing that is leaking and not the yoke. Not enough to drip, but enough to wet the transfer case.
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post #9 of 13 Old 10-22-2021, 05:29 PM
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Same boat here, done all them things, still leaks. I've taking to viewing it as rear under body rust prevention.


I will say though, depending on how you're seating the seal, it's easy to get it warp-ie and out of round without realizing it. The first one I just tapped in quick with a hammer, no big deal, done it many times before. It leaked worse than the old one. The second one I took a lot more care, doing it a lot more even. It also leaked. The third one I did on a new tail housing, right in front of me (as opposed to over head on the vehicle) When I installed it, much the same way, I was able to see just how out of round I'd made the lip of the seal while installing it. To the point where I pulled it out and threw it away. The fourth one I installed "right" (lol). Not really, but I wasn't lazy and went down the basement and got the right size socket to tap it in even. I then slopped some grease on the yoke before I installed it. It still leaks, but nowhere near as bad as the others did.

Just dig around in the bottom of your tool box till you find the right size socket.




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post #10 of 13 Old 10-25-2021, 10:36 PM
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Wipe some Permatex around the outside of a new seal. The metal to metal area can leak.
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post #11 of 13 Old 10-26-2021, 03:55 PM Thread Starter
heath8635
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Thank you everyone for the responses. My is leaking so bad it leaves a puddle on ground and it leave drops on spare tire cover and back of jeep. I’m going to try a different seal this weekend. I’ve always used a socket to knock it in but I still maybe warping it.
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post #12 of 13 Old 10-26-2021, 04:10 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by heath8635 View Post
Thank you everyone for the responses. My is leaking so bad it leaves a puddle on ground and it leave drops on spare tire cover and back of jeep. Iím going to try a different seal this weekend. Iíve always used a socket to knock it in but I still maybe warping it.
Is the housing buggered? Replacement housing on Amazon is inexpensive.
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post #13 of 13 Old 10-27-2021, 11:29 AM Thread Starter
heath8635
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I’ve changed it twice. Both came from carparts.com. I guess they are good. They was crown parts
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