IROCk build thread - Page 5 - JeepForum.com
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post #61 of 667 Old 06-17-2014, 06:17 AM Thread Starter
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Got mo bling today! Champion 3 core radiator! Hopefully no more cooling issues.




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post #62 of 667 Old 06-18-2014, 05:21 AM Thread Starter
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Got the new 3 core aluminium radiator installed. No more cooling issues! Even though the inlet and outlet switched position I could still reuse the old upper hose. Nice to save a little $$.

Couldnt get any closer with the clearance.




Kind of hard to see, but this was after driving 75mph for 10 min.


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post #63 of 667 Old 06-22-2014, 05:02 PM Thread Starter
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Finished the traction bar. Now if I could just get around to redoing my cross member so I can install my front drive shaft.


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post #64 of 667 Old 03-10-2015, 05:46 AM Thread Starter
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Installed a new inline temp switch housing. The SAAB one started to leak from corrosion because it's a JY part. I tried to make one out of 1.5" DOM and a spindle nut, but it leaked due to having no barbs on the ends. So I scoured the interwebs and found one in the UK out of billet aluminum. Installed it and no more leaks.

Comparisons between the 3. If anyone has a lathe to turn barbs into it the home made one would work.

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post #65 of 667 Old 03-10-2015, 05:48 AM Thread Starter
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Last weekend when my dad was in town he gave me a hand modifying my crossmember so my d/s wouldn't hit at full droop. I went back toward the yoke instead of down so everything is still above the frame rails. I had to miter it because of the tight radius. Doesn't look the best but gets the job done. I also ended up having to change the front out put yoke because the old one was too shallow and would bind. So I put a 1310 CV yoke in. At least now when I put a locker in the front I can run a CV shaft like the TJ's and XJ's.

The new yoke is about 3/8" longer. So it my drive shaft is longer than I would like it to be. It comes really close to bottoming out. This is a shot of how close it is about an inch from full bump. It doesn't have much more at all to go. I'll probably get a CV shaft made and use this as a trail spare. EDIT: or I could just grind off the welds and shorten the sleeve.

Today I modded my my front shock tower for some Procomp MX6 remote reservoir shocks that I picked up a while ago. This will be temporary until I can get some shock hoops made up.


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post #66 of 667 Old 03-10-2015, 05:49 AM Thread Starter
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At least it flexes good now :mrgreen:


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post #67 of 667 Old 03-10-2015, 05:50 AM Thread Starter
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Finally got around to cutting up the flat skid for jeeptober fest. Still debating on what to do with the part where the xfer case protrudes. Definitely killing it on ground clearance.



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post #68 of 667 Old 03-10-2015, 05:50 AM Thread Starter
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Rewired the electric fan. I melted a 30/40A relay. So I used an 80A continuous duty solenoid and put in a 30A circuit breaker instead of a fuse. Bent and burned some scrap I had laying around for the bracket. Tomorrow I'll start tearing apart the front axle to install tj shafts and hopefully a locker (if it gets here before Thursday).


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post #69 of 667 Old 03-10-2015, 05:51 AM Thread Starter
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Got the front axle torn down. Now just a waiting game for brown Santa to bring a locker and some Spicer 5-760x ujoints.

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post #70 of 667 Old 03-10-2015, 05:51 AM Thread Starter
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The locker never came so I will be riding shotgun to Jeeptoberfest. I did get the TJ axles all cleaned up and new joints. I also clearanced the ears to allow for full circle clips (snap rings). Most of the time front axle failure is due to the ears stretching, then the cap spins and knocks off the C clip. Then the cap walks out and boom bye bye axle. That's why most chromos are machined for full circle clips. A cheaper easier way is to throw a tack weld between the cap and ear, but I can still service my ujoints with the full circles.


Let me tell you these axles had seen better days when I pulled them. They were rusty as hell and the ujoints were ceased. I have never seen this before, but the freaking cap blew out when I was trying to press out the old joints.

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post #71 of 667 Old 03-10-2015, 05:52 AM Thread Starter
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The locker finally came in today. I had also ordered a new cross shaft and thrust washers.
The install wasn't as smooth as most people's experience. First when I put it together and went to check tolerances it was below spec (too tight) . So I took it apart and and put in my old thrust washers. That put it into the acceptable range.
But....
I noticed that a couple of the springs were very difficult to install. It the dowels on one of the cam gears were not seating as deep as the other two. So I took it apart again and inspected the holes. Sure enough there was something in them. I had to use a pick tool and compressed and excavate out what ever it was. I'm not really sure what it was but it turned powdery as I was scraping at it. Anyways I put it back together and installed it in the axle and my new TJ shafts woo-hoo.

When I started to do the acceptance test that was directed in the book it would unload in 2wd but not in 4wd. After scratching my head and making a couple calls to members still no luck with it passing the test as directed in the instructions. I took a break and tried again. Finally it started to unload in 4wd. I guess it just needed a little break in, but it had me stressing it wasn't working at first.
Took it for a spin everything seems good it's quiet and best of all I have been up to 60mph and so far no vibes from the front driveshaft I extended but NEVER had balanced. Can't wait to try it off road!!!
LET'S GO WHEELING!!!

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post #72 of 667 Old 03-10-2015, 05:53 AM Thread Starter
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Last week I went to the JY and yanked serpentine brackets off a camaro. Bought new water pump, power steering, alternator, and a/c delete pulley (will be installing a/c hopefully sooner than later). When choosing an alternator I decided to upgrade to a 140A CS144, it only took minor modification of the bracket. I had to flip the radiator fan shroud due to fitment issues with the belt tensioner and and the fan motor. Finally no more alternator or power steering belt squeals! It also seems to be idling a little smoother.



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post #73 of 667 Old 03-10-2015, 05:53 AM Thread Starter
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Out with the Walmart lights, in with the fleabay LED's.


Also did the headlight relay upgrade. No more burning up headlight switches.

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post #74 of 667 Old 03-10-2015, 05:54 AM Thread Starter
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Finished swapping over parts from the JY tcase. I had a 1310 CV yoke machined to accept the shoulder on the front output shaft. For some reason the machine shop machined about .030 shallower than the chevy yoke I asked them to match. this is causing .030 of play on the shaft. So back to the machine shop. I also pulled the trans to replace the throw out bearing. Anyone got a line on a NV4500 while I got the trans out?

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post #75 of 667 Old 03-10-2015, 05:55 AM Thread Starter
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So while I had my transmission out I decided to crack it open and find out where the noise was coming from. As I suspected it was the counter shaft. I could rebuild it or ride it out for a while, but I'm taking this opportunity to go in a different direction. I'm supposed to be picking up its replacement today. I will be posting this one to classifieds as a core or rebuildable.


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