Intake Upgrade - JeepForum.com
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post #1 of 16 Old 11-10-2014, 01:40 AM Thread Starter
kcompson
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Intake Upgrade

My YJ is currently has a throttle body spacer, and i'm looking to replace the throttle body with a 4.0 throttle body as well as get an intake for it. Are there any intakes that are recommended? Also will i need to get a 4.0 or a 2.5L intake?

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post #2 of 16 Old 11-10-2014, 05:33 AM
leftlanetruckin
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Arghhh, I HATE it when the batteries go bad in my crystal ball....
How are we supposed to know what engine you have, along with the year, again? I missed the memo....
If it's a 4 cylinder, you can either carry on wasting money on it, or live with what it is.
Of course, I dont know the year, and dont know it's a 4 banger neither.

Martin

1998 XJ on 37's.JK Rubi axles with chromo shafts and ctm's, 4:1 transfer case, etc etc etc.
2003 Range Rover HSE, 4.4 Quad Cam.
1998 Range Rover with a 6.0 LSx
1994 YJ, 4.3/700R4/OME SOA, etc
Western Star 4900EX 4 axle.
4.3/700r4/new frame buildup (YJ)....

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post #3 of 16 Old 11-10-2014, 08:46 AM
TCazes
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Well since he wants a 4.0 tb then he probably has a 4 banger. A tbs is worthless for the most part. The 4.0tb is a decent improvement over the 2.5 if paired with some 19lb injectors. Remove the baffles in the air box for a little better flow. If you are searching for power you will need a turbo sadly. If you have oversized tires your only option is to regear to help out your motor. As far as intake. Any old generic fram stp oem filter is more than enough and as far as intake tube it's not really a need to change the stocker is fine. When switching to the 4.0 tb the stock 2.5 intake is plenty fine it's fits the same. The throttle bodies have the same Od just the Id is different.
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post #4 of 16 Old 11-10-2014, 10:17 AM
Stryfe
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Originally Posted by TCazes View Post
Well since he wants a 4.0 tb then he probably has a 4 banger. A tbs is worthless for the most part. The 4.0tb is a decent improvement over the 2.5 if paired with some 19lb injectors.
I've got a 2.5L and I'm curious... I'm not looking for major power boost (or i'd do a more serious mod) but what order of magnitude boost might be seen in power or torque just swapping in a 4.0 throttle body? let's assume I do a high flow air box at the same time.

Am I correct in my understanding this would be a plug and play swap, there doesn't need to be any mods to the sensors or wire harnesses?
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post #5 of 16 Old 11-10-2014, 11:07 AM
leftlanetruckin
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Stryfe View Post
I've got a 2.5L and I'm curious... I'm not looking for major power boost (or i'd do a more serious mod) but what order of magnitude boost might be seen in power or torque just swapping in a 4.0 throttle body? let's assume I do a high flow air box at the same time.

Am I correct in my understanding this would be a plug and play swap, there doesn't need to be any mods to the sensors or wire harnesses?
I had a 4 banger years and years ago. I did all the "mods" and noticed next to nothing, certainly not enough to cover the cost of parts.
I wouldn't bother, it is what it is in my experience.

Martin

1998 XJ on 37's.JK Rubi axles with chromo shafts and ctm's, 4:1 transfer case, etc etc etc.
2003 Range Rover HSE, 4.4 Quad Cam.
1998 Range Rover with a 6.0 LSx
1994 YJ, 4.3/700R4/OME SOA, etc
Western Star 4900EX 4 axle.
4.3/700r4/new frame buildup (YJ)....

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post #6 of 16 Old 11-10-2014, 11:23 AM
mike134
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Stryfe View Post
I've got a 2.5L and I'm curious... I'm not looking for major power boost (or i'd do a more serious mod) but what order of magnitude boost might be seen in power or torque just swapping in a 4.0 throttle body? let's assume I do a high flow air box at the same time.

Am I correct in my understanding this would be a plug and play swap, there doesn't need to be any mods to the sensors or wire harnesses?
before doing this mod,I recommend installing a permanent vacuum gauge like the Autometer 2337 in the cab.

A vacuum gauge can help you monitor the health of your engine. It is a valuable diagnostic tool.

If the gauge does not drop to 0 when you are at full throttle, then you know you will benefit from a throttle body upgrade. If it does drop to near zero, then there is no point in upgrading because you are not limited by air flow.
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post #7 of 16 Old 11-13-2014, 11:34 AM Thread Starter
kcompson
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Thanks for the input guys. I have a 94 YJ with a 2.5, it's just something I picked up for a little over a grand. The suspension was shot so I ended up putting a 4" lift on it and I'm still running my 31" tires. I was considering jumping to 32-33" but I'm not sure what kind of gearing I'd need to runderstand with that. Trying to come up with a decent solution to keep what little power I have without doing a full blown motor swap.
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post #8 of 16 Old 11-13-2014, 12:03 PM
leftlanetruckin
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4.88's is a deep as the front axle can go, and when you see the pinion gear, you'll know why!
If you are going to regear, just go 4.88's.

Martin

1998 XJ on 37's.JK Rubi axles with chromo shafts and ctm's, 4:1 transfer case, etc etc etc.
2003 Range Rover HSE, 4.4 Quad Cam.
1998 Range Rover with a 6.0 LSx
1994 YJ, 4.3/700R4/OME SOA, etc
Western Star 4900EX 4 axle.
4.3/700r4/new frame buildup (YJ)....

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post #9 of 16 Old 11-13-2014, 09:12 PM
jokerchief462
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2.5L best money upgrade running 33s is to regear to 4:88s.

Did mine over a year ago best performance upgrade.

You are basically restricted by the computer that sets the fuel mixture on pre programmed tables and no one has a new program to make all the little mods light up the horsepower.

Best money is regear and for the rear a Ford 8.8 with lockers. You will never go back.

Sent from underneath my Jeep

89YJ 2.5L TBI, AX-5, NP231 SYE, Ford 8.8, Yukon Grizzly, Tom Woods Shaft, 33" BFG T/As, 4" lift, Warn VR10000s.

AF Jeep Club Tail #184
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post #10 of 16 Old 11-14-2014, 07:13 AM
superj
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you know what someone with a 4 banger out to try? get a mini cooper super charger and bolt it on. its a serpentine belt drive and you can get different pulleys to add more boost (my wife has one now so i learned alot about them recently. hers is running a 17% smaller pulley and gained about 20hp) they are small and easy to manipulate and the intercooler is very easy to use also as it uses all rubber hoses for directing the air. i have seen them run about 4-500 on ebay and cheaper for craigslist

that would be a cool mod. my wife's little cooper s runs about 7 second 0-60 times and its a 1.6 automatic model

I don't feel like working on anything at this time so i sold my yj.
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post #11 of 16 Old 11-14-2014, 10:12 AM
mike134
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Quote:
Originally Posted by superj View Post
you know what someone with a 4 banger out to try? get a mini cooper super charger and bolt it on. its a serpentine belt drive and you can get different pulleys to add more boost (my wife has one now so i learned alot about them recently. hers is running a 17% smaller pulley and gained about 20hp) they are small and easy to manipulate and the intercooler is very easy to use also as it uses all rubber hoses for directing the air. i have seen them run about 4-500 on ebay and cheaper for craigslist

that would be a cool mod. my wife's little cooper s runs about 7 second 0-60 times and its a 1.6 automatic model
It could certainly improve high altitude driving. Get you back to sea level pressures. I wonder how far the boost could go on the stock computer though. A few psi at most I would imagine. Too much pressure and you would have to install a new pressure regulator to override the computer fuel control, fuel pressure would have to increase with boost level.
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post #12 of 16 Old 11-14-2014, 10:33 AM
superj
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yes sir, i imagine you would have to do that. i think 8 is stock on these mini coopers. i believe i read that somewhere recently. one could also throw a megasquirt on in place of hte ecu and tune everything to work.

now we are talking more expensive mods though so might be better to sell and get a 4.0 wrangler

I don't feel like working on anything at this time so i sold my yj.
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post #13 of 16 Old 11-15-2014, 01:33 PM Thread Starter
kcompson
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Hm.. I should probably take some notes, I don't have much for tools out here in California with me, but once i drive the old jeep back to Ohio hopefully this spring I'll have to start doing regearing and other stuff. Also would the stock rear end be okay with 4.88 gearing, or is the Ford 8.8 a must?
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post #14 of 16 Old 11-15-2014, 02:15 PM
mike134
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Stock rear is fine as stock. Bigger tires combined with locking diffs and aggresive driving will brake the stock axle... this is why people dont bother regearing it. It is just a tad more expensive for the whole new rearend ford 8.8 or dana 44.

I would like to double my recommendationfor installing the vacuum gauge. No tools necessary. Lets you know if your engine can make it cross country.

What part of ohio you in?
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post #15 of 16 Old 11-15-2014, 05:05 PM
metalhead
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Don't mean to hijack but you all just gave me a good idea about what to put in the blank space in the gauge cluster. I was going to put a clock there but a vacuum gauge is a great idea.
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