Installing New Windshield - Need Guidance - JeepForum.com
 
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post #1 of 8 Old 05-09-2017, 12:46 PM Thread Starter
GumboroJeep10
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Installing New Windshield - Need Guidance

Hello all! I finally have expendable income to pour into my Jeep, and one thing that is prevalent that I want to fix is all of the rust. I already have someone lined up to repair the floor, inside with a replacement pan from key parts, but I kind of want to try and tackle the windshield with my dad. So, I have a few questions. Any help appreciated!

1. I plan on pulling the old windshield and installing a new frame. What frame would you all recommend? There are plenty of kits online (Crown, OMIX, Keyparts, etc.). I'm looking for something that closely matches the thickness of steel that came from the factory. Which of the options available have what I'm looking for?

2. I'm anticipating stripping screws, so I will be purchasing replacement screws as back ups. Since no one really knows what you are getting into until you pull the windshield frame down, what do you guys think I should be prepared with on-hand in way of replacement parts based on your experiences? I like to be ready for any possible situation, and if it is already a part, I may replace some of the parts behind there.

3. How long does this process usually take? I know if depends heavily on how rusted the hinges are, difficulty in getting the bolts out from the roll-bar, etc. But, ball park if everything went well, how long do you think? Are there steps I can take on the outset to maximize success? I had one person tell me I should take can of PB Blaster and spray the hinges and bolts the night before. Anyone else have any helpful tips?

I know this is a lot! But considering that I come from everything with my jeep from the angle of being prepared for the worst, I'd like to have some veteran jeep enthusiast advice as I try to tackle this. Thanks for any and all help!

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post #2 of 8 Old 05-09-2017, 01:03 PM
Chrisnvegas
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Before you even go near your Jeep with a torx, get out the torch, have an impact driver handy. If you don't have one, order this (or equivalent)
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...d_i=2399141011

Before using the driver to loosen the torx, you will be heating the torx first (heat the crap out of it) to melt the goo the factory used.
You will then be sure the driver is set to back the torx out. You'll hit it with fairly strong but steady blows. Nothing? Re-heat and do it again.

You will use a quality torx bit. An SK, Snap on, older Craftsman, ect.
Try to find a USA made bit.

End of part 1... Preparation.

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post #3 of 8 Old 05-09-2017, 01:11 PM
Chrisnvegas
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Part 2, Frames.
No aftermarket makes as good a frame as the original.
But, I have used 1 aftermarket. I got it from Quadratec. It isn't bad. But the key will be your prep. You will need to protect it inside and out from salt water. I live in the desert so I don't know how to do it properly. Someone from the east coast will have to advise on that.

The windshield urethane is stiff as a (insert cuss word here) and will be helpful to have or borrow a powered caulk gun.
You'll need about 3 tubes of urethane.

Here's a good video by our pal at the Redneck Garage. It's pretty informative.


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post #4 of 8 Old 05-09-2017, 01:50 PM Thread Starter
GumboroJeep10
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Wow! Thanks so much for the helpful information. I truly appreciate it.

On another note (kind of related) my windshield wipers seems to be on the fritz. They seem to go kind of slow and occasionally stop right in the middle of their cycle. Almost as if their resting place is dead center of my field of view. Then when they begin the next cycle, they correct themselves. Any clue what that may be? If I can figure that out I may just replace that part while I'm in there.
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post #5 of 8 Old 05-09-2017, 01:56 PM
Chrisnvegas
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I had problems like that with my wipers.
I found a magic wand, small toy soldiers (WWII platic ones) and a couple Hot Wheel cars down there interfering with the wiper linkage. (Damn, that's where my magic wand went!)
Anyway, keep us posted.

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post #6 of 8 Old 05-10-2017, 09:29 AM
rubisean
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One tube of urethane will be enough

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post #7 of 8 Old 05-10-2017, 10:01 AM
blake989
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For the windshield...I used one tube of urethane, cut the tip in the "V" notch profile to the correct height, and used a 30:1 caulk gun from Home Depot. I did spring for the urethane primer, found it at Napa for about $35, not sure what it does but I probably wouldn't pay the extra if I did it over again.

The YJ is no longer my DD. I have sacrificed all future retirement plans for jeep parts. I'm depending on social security!
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post #8 of 8 Old 05-11-2017, 09:50 PM
jcourt667
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Here's a link to my recent frame replacement
https://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f12/w...ight=jcourt667

The aftermarket frame was from Keyparts. I ordered the Quadratec kit. I ended up cracking the glass from not using enough urethane and trying to press the glass in to get it to seal to the lack of urethane. I used 1.5 tubes. After cracking the glass, I called in a professional to install new glass. He used 2.5 tubes and primer sealant. The primer preps the frame for the urethane, use it or you'll have leaks. If you going to install the glass yourself, the sealant will flow fine with a bathroom caulk gun, as long as the urethane is warmed up in a pot of heated water. Just don't let the wife know you're cooking urethane on the kitchen stove.

As far as the frame, I coated the inside with an acrylic enamel. I primered/painted the outside with rattle cans, multiple coats and a couple clear coats. Surprised that the local autoparts store carried my original paint color/code in a spray can. All drilled holes line up, no problems.

Like Chris said, use heat on all the torx heads. They will come out with ease.

94 Sahara YJ 4.0L HO. 255k miles! Been down for 8 years, time to get this out of the barn!
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