I'm prepping my Jeep for the moon... - JeepForum.com
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post #1 of 19 Old 10-25-2015, 04:38 PM Thread Starter
JoeYJWrangler
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So I had asked some questions on the thread "Heat and sound insulation". After getting some feedback I ordered a product "EZ Cool" The following is a quick overview of how the project went so far.

Remove everything from interior and clean surface for application of insulation

I had to grind of a few bolts and wire brush some spots but it was really clean for the most part

The product comes in different length of roles that are 5' wide. For better or worse I started at the step between the back deck and the passenger foot area. I was thinking that I wanted one sheet to cover the entire lower floor area a couple inches up the sides so that if I dunked the jeep it would not have any place to get under the material and drain out the plug holes that jeep puts in the floor.

I really liked the way the material fit the different contours. I'm guessing a pro could get it to lay down better than I did. In 2 or 3 places I ended up tearing it trying to get it into a low contour corner. I discovered that I could create a patch that easily covered the area and maybe I shouldn't have been quite so anal. So I started at the step were the back deck drop down into the foot well and worked my way forward.

The material is glued using contact cement on both surfaces. I used the 3M 90 stuff in the pic, label said it was stronger than the 3M 77 product. The little white paddle was provided with the roll of material along with some aluminum tape for seams.

After I had laid all the material I used the tape on all the seams so theoretically I should be able to pout water in here and watch it run out the plug holes, time will tell on that one.

So anyways I figure I'm good to go for the moon with all this aluminum foil in the rig

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post #2 of 19 Old 10-25-2015, 05:07 PM
TSEJEEPERS
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Great idea!
I just wonder if it will absorb moisture the way carpet does?
Can you paint it?
Let us know about the end result!

93 YJ SOA 2" springs front, XJ springs rear w/main leaf added, High pinon 9 inch rear detroit locker front Dana 44 ARB 4.56 Gears, 36 inch Irok tires too much to list.
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post #3 of 19 Old 10-25-2015, 05:15 PM
Burlbook48
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Hey Joe. This will be interesting to see how it holds up over time.



Can you do us a favor? We all pretty much know how hot the floor gets with the exhaust running under the passenger side, and that cat-convertor is right under the passenger area. If you can find a digital infrared scanner, can you get a reading on the floor in various spots after it's a had a chance to get nice and toasty? My passenger side floor would get so hot I couldn't put my bare feet on the floor.

Maybe a local mechanic would have one of those scanners. I know they work great to scan how hot the radiator is, and then scan the thermostat for comparison. A guy had one on my last trail run. His temp gauge on his 1960's vintage Land Cruiser started going through the roof. He scanned his radiator and thermostat, and everything was at 185. Same temp for my jeep, and for another old FJ was at 190. So we concluded the old gauge was giving up the ghost. He wheeled the rest of the trail over the next couple days without a problem.


It would be cool (no pun intended) to see just how much of a reduction in heat you get from that insulation.

You have to start somewhere to get to the middle of nowhere.


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post #4 of 19 Old 10-25-2015, 05:40 PM
DirectMatrix
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I'm interested in the sound reduction aspect of the product just as much as the heat reduction.
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post #5 of 19 Old 10-25-2015, 07:14 PM
mike134
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Burlbook48 View Post
Hey Joe. This will be interesting to see how it holds up over time.



Can you do us a favor? We all pretty much know how hot the floor gets with the exhaust running under the passenger side, and that cat-convertor is right under the passenger area. If you can find a digital infrared scanner, can you get a reading on the floor in various spots after it's a had a chance to get nice and toasty? My passenger side floor would get so hot I couldn't put my bare feet on the floor.

An infrared scanner might be way off with insulation that is designed to bounce infrared radiation. It might be better off using a thermometer taped to the floor.
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post #6 of 19 Old 10-25-2015, 07:20 PM
Burlbook48
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Hmmm.... good point, hadn't thought of that. Maybe just place a regular floor mat over the insulation and see what that reads.

Or tape a thermometer on the floor. Damn, why didn't I think of that?

You have to start somewhere to get to the middle of nowhere.


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Thanks, but my rig is just a Prince among Kings. You folks gave me the answers to build it!
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post #7 of 19 Old 10-25-2015, 07:47 PM
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Looks like you did a great job installing it. I assume that you are putting carpet back over it, correct?

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post #8 of 19 Old 10-25-2015, 07:52 PM Thread Starter
JoeYJWrangler
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TSEJEEPERS View Post
Great idea!
I just wonder if it will absorb moisture the way carpet does?
Can you paint it?
Let us know about the end result!
Here's a bit of info taken directly from the website "A major concern when restoring a vehicle is finding an insulation/sound deadening product that won't cause long term damage to the body of the vehicle. When using foam, cotton or jute backed products, unwanted moisture can easily be the cause of early deterioration in the floor of the vehicle. This insulation prevents condensation and will not absorb moisture. Therefore, it will not mold nor mildew like cotton, foam and jute backed products do. It stops up to 97% of radiant heat transfer, which makes it ideal not only for firewalls, but also for lining engine covers in boats and motor homes. In the winter months, automotive insulation will keep all your valuable heat in your car or RV, where you need it most. It is also an excellent sound deadener, so it will keep out unwanted engine and road noise. This insulation is extremely lightweight (40 sq. ft. weighs less than 2 pounds), totally non-toxic and cuts with scissors or a sharp knife. This same brand of automotive insulation has been used in NASCAR, IROC, and World of Outlaws race cars.

Yes you can paint it, don't know how long it will stick though. I painted mine after installing the original carpet kit and you could see the shiny foil in places.

Here's a link to the website. Somewhere it talked about how it holds up. http://www.lobucrod.com/index.html
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post #9 of 19 Old 10-25-2015, 08:04 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Burlbook48 View Post
Hmmm.... good point, hadn't thought of that. Maybe just place a regular floor mat over the insulation and see what that reads.

Or tape a thermometer on the floor. Damn, why didn't I think of that?
I wondered the same thing, how much difference does it actually make then I read this guys experience, http://www.shanescitshed.com/cx2500/...nsulation.html and decided it was worth the risk.

I'll let you know after I've had a chance to run it a while. Right now it's down because I am also doing the 95 booster conversion.

Also here's a direct quote from a customer that's posted on the website "Received the sample (Thank You!) and gave it a test: A heat gun was held on a 5x8 piece of thin sheet-metal (with insulation sample attached to backside) for about 10 minutes. The hottest area of the unprotected sheet-metal was about 280 degrees, but protected side (the exposed surface of the insulation) never got over 83 degrees (ambient air temperature was 68 degrees). Ive since placed my order for 480 SQFT on your website. If this works anywhere near as good in my custom car, Ill be extremely happy! Looking forward to receiving the product...Ralph in Citrus Heights, CA"
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post #10 of 19 Old 10-25-2015, 08:09 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DirtKar View Post
Looks like you did a great job installing it. I assume that you are putting carpet back over it, correct?
Thanks.

Yes, the original carpet kit was in pretty good condition and has already been reinstalled.

The back is another story. It was rhino lined by a previous owner so it didn't have anything on it. I'm still undecided as to what to put over the new insulation back there. Want something that is easy to clean and doesn't hold water, maybe some sort of light weight rubber mat?
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post #11 of 19 Old 10-25-2015, 08:19 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DirectMatrix View Post
I'm interested in the sound reduction aspect of the product just as much as the heat reduction.
I am hopeful that it will make a significant difference. I plan on gluing some to the main part of the hardtop as well and then cover it with the thin grey carpet you can buy at the big box stores.

These guys (taken from the website) sure seem to be happy...



Hi. I've used this material on two cars. We completely lined the interior of my son's 1972 Cutlass Supreme. It has headers, loud mufflers, etc and the noise reduction in the car was amazing. Currently I'm doing my 1950 Mercury. Headers, glasspacs, old school custom. I am purchasing my third roll to finish under the rear seat and the trunk. Great material. Easy to work with and form. Stays put and works great. I would recommend using this material on your next or current project! Jim in Indiana

I have to say I had my doubts when the roll of insulation came in the mail that it would actually work to keep the sound out. After hours of installing I still had my doubts when I installed my carpet back and seats that it would do anything. I was shocked when I took my car for a test drive. What a world of difference, no longer does my exhaust drown out my stereo. I can't even tell if I am accelerating too fast now because I can barely hear the exhaust get louder. Seriously guys I am amazed I will be definitely buying some more insulation rolls for my 41 ford next. Thanks for such a great product.
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post #12 of 19 Old 10-25-2015, 08:27 PM
DirectMatrix
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JoeYJWrangler View Post
I was thinking that I wanted one sheet to cover the entire lower floor area a couple inches up the sides so that if I dunked the jeep it would not have any place to get under the material and drain out the plug holes that jeep puts in the floor.
Did you go all the way up to above the wheel wells to the top of the tub (to the underside of the lip where the top attaches)?

Some pics of that area would be appreciated.

I'm guessing if you have any chance of replicating the results of others in different vehicles regarding sound deadening, you'd have to do the tub in its entirety.
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post #13 of 19 Old 10-26-2015, 12:58 PM
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How much material did you need? Looking into doing this as well, bare tub here and in the So Cal heat stuck in traffic it's a furnace in there.
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post #14 of 19 Old 10-26-2015, 03:36 PM
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I would assume that multiple layers would multiply its effectiveness? Anyone tried that?

Stop whining about the 'ride' - If your YJ ain't wrangling your soul free, then might I suggest you buy a stationwagon... at least you can fit all your bull**** in the back.
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post #15 of 19 Old 10-26-2015, 09:49 PM Thread Starter
JoeYJWrangler
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DirectMatrix View Post
Did you go all the way up to above the wheel wells to the top of the tub (to the underside of the lip where the top attaches)?

Some pics of that area would be appreciated.

I'm guessing if you have any chance of replicating the results of others in different vehicles regarding sound deadening, you'd have to do the tub in its entirety.
Yes the material goes up to the top of the tub. I will be doing the hard top as well. I'm not sure that you have to do everything though, seems to me like there are probably key spots that make more difference than others.
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