Hoops up front, outboarded rear - Page 5 - JeepForum.com
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post #61 of 89 Old 09-29-2020, 07:39 PM
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Thanks for tuning in.

Yea. I'm gonna bust out the BFH tonight and try to get .75"-1" more clearance.
FWIW if you take a piece of metal and hammer it up, cut out the contact area, and weld your piece into place, you’ll be cool AND I would venture it will take half the time for a nice finished look. The “bump” I made for my rear driveshaft output yoke went so fast I almost didn’t enjoy it and I didn’t have to stretch and beat the poor heep.


[size=3]Shackles & D-rings are different things.
Cranking IS turning over
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post #62 of 89 Old 09-30-2020, 07:32 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by bruinjeeper View Post
Thanks for tuning in.

Yea. I'm gonna bust out the BFH tonight and try to get .75"-1" more clearance.
FWIW if you take a piece of metal and hammer it up, cut out the contact area, and weld your piece into place, you’ll be cool AND I would venture it will take half the time for a nice finished look. The “bump” I made for my rear driveshaft output yoke went so fast I almost didn’t enjoy it and I didn’t have to stretch and beat the poor heep.
That was my next idea. But... it took all of 20 minutes with a ball peen this evening to get the clearance I required.

Frame spots ground down and the mounts out of the way. I wanted to leave a TINY bit of the former mount to utilizing as a convenient spot to self tap a front facing/angled under carriage light. (Thd ones I am forced to relocate from the inner fender ceiling due to additional clearance required for the top of the hoop.

Anyhow. It's an ugly job... but considering I live on a condominium, they dont take kindly to me utilizing the only outlet in the entire underground car park at the car wash area to send spark flying and make a ton of noise.

So all my cutting and grinding was done on the quick and under intense pressure with my head on a swivel for anyone walking to their car Lol.

Tomorrow morning I will be welding in the new hoops and take her for a test drive.

The valving on these 5125 Bilsteins are much lighter than the 5100s I took off and sold.
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post #63 of 89 Old 10-01-2020, 03:51 AM
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lol I got a good visual of that in my head.

YJUnlimited stretch, Links, SBC, Tons, Lockers, and stuff
March 2017 YJOTM/ 2017 YJOTY

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post #64 of 89 Old 10-01-2020, 05:05 AM Thread Starter
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Absolute panic. Lol

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post #65 of 89 Old 10-01-2020, 08:16 AM Thread Starter
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Welded in. Painted up. Shocks in.

Not terrible for a guy who hasn't welded since the 8.8 two years ago.

Thanks for everyone who chimed in for the 3 years it took me to settle this LOL. some of you are building entire jeeps in less time.

End note for all future readers going to trail gear hoops, on a stock inner fendered YJ with 1" of body lift.

These will work and you can gain up to 5" with a little "massaging" of said inner fender with a BFH. Mind you, I had already moved my lower mounts up on the D30.... so I only got about a 2" longer shock.

Thank you Miller rentals
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20201001_101810_1601561982472.jpg   20201001_103754_1601563147798.jpg   20201001_153734_1601583574340.jpg   20201001_153713_1601583585801.jpg  

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post #66 of 89 Old 10-01-2020, 09:58 AM
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Wow that looks sharp!! I work at the same pace so 3 years isnt that bad lol.
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post #67 of 89 Old 10-02-2020, 07:17 PM Thread Starter
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Wow that looks sharp!! I work at the same pace so 3 years isnt that bad lol.
Hahahaha. I used to get discouraged considering what some of the members here accomplish in that same time span.

Now I just get motivated. Might be picking up a suitable DD this weekend. Then the real production and fun can start.
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post #68 of 89 Old 10-02-2020, 08:20 PM
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Hahahaha. I used to get discouraged considering what some of the members here accomplish in that same time span.

Now I just get motivated. Might be picking up a suitable DD this weekend. Then the real production and fun can start.
It is always nice to have a DD and the Jeep can be regulated to more fun tasks!!


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post #69 of 89 Old 10-03-2020, 10:52 AM
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Hahahaha. I used to get discouraged considering what some of the members here accomplish in that same time span.

Now I just get motivated. Might be picking up a suitable DD this weekend. Then the real production and fun can start.
I'm definitely one of those quick builders but I'm also single and extremely impatient. I have a really hard time leaving something unfinished because I know I'm going to miss out on something if it's not done. Perfect example... my front 4 link was started last weekend and I'm bummed because it's not quite done today when my local trail decided to open up on a random weekend.

I'm a firm believer in saying that the best thing you can ever do to your Jeep is to stop making it your DD. Granted it takes a little more money but it can start paying for itself if you buy some 10-15 year old reliable car that gets 30+ mpg. In theory, you think that driving your Jeep everyday will make you happy but I found that driving my Jeep everyday just stressed me out and my negative attitude getting transferred to the Jeep. With a different DD, you can drive to work in your ho-hum attitude when it's cold, hot, miserable, etc and be comfortable. More importantly, you don't transfer that crummy attitude into your Jeep nor do you have to worry about the Jeep letting you down one morning when it doesn't want to work. The Jeep becomes a toy and a special occasion. It's a nice 'pick me up' after a long week to hop in the Jeep with the top off and drive to the store to get groceries or whatever. I also think it's easier to justify leaving the top off when it's not parked outside at work for 9+ hours a day.
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post #70 of 89 Old 10-16-2020, 09:49 PM Thread Starter
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Well. I am at it again... and since I alluded to it 3 years ago, I will be finishing it off in this thread.

I have found a guy who has abandoned his project, and has brand new never unboxed Ford shock towers and will be out boarding the rear end utilizing them. 30$ for the set... GREAT pricing for Canada.

And yes, i am doing it on an 8.8 tracked rear end. The spacers help tremendously here.

Analyzing it tonight briefly... notching and frenching the mounts into the frame is the only logical way without a full width axle. There isn't too much evidence of any of this on a narrow track axle for a YJ on the internet, so I figure I would document it here and keep it all collected in one tidy thread.
@jbolty any way we can change the title to this thread? Perhaps, "Hoops up front, outboarded rear" ? Seems like something someone would look up some day.

Like many others, I will be using the 3" radius Synergy manufacturing lower mounts on the axle tube. Slightly angled back.

I'd be doing the cutting in my underground car park (again). How safe would it be to cut the frame to what is required, then drive it up the ramp to the parking lot outside. Maybe 50 meters?

~YJOTM MAY '16, JULY '19~


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post #71 of 89 Old 10-17-2020, 02:42 PM Thread Starter
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Thank you sir

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post #72 of 89 Old 10-17-2020, 05:46 PM
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@bruinjeeper do you have a build thread now lol?! I like the new thread name, I know it will be a good reference for others!!


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post #73 of 89 Old 10-17-2020, 10:14 PM Thread Starter
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nope.

no build thread... just a bunch of random ones on minor stuff i do.

I do it for people from the future that may take an interest in certain ideas. Also like seeing these threads through, full circle.

Nothing more frustrating then following a thread and getting to page 17 and realizing after all the talk, and planning and part numbers... you get zero conclusion, or even the slightest idea of if the poster started the project, quit in the middle, sold the jeep, etc. lol
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post #74 of 89 Old 10-18-2020, 03:35 PM Thread Starter
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So to re-iterate...

I mocked up my 5100s today in place... I dont actually need to cut out too too much of the frame to get a good angle .... maybe 1-1.5" inboard.

How unsafe is it to make my cuts into the frame, and then drive up the ramp of my underground car park to the exterior parking lot (about 50 meters or so)?

I'm thinking it would be fine but a kind confirmation always helps ease the nerves

~YJOTM MAY '16, JULY '19~


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post #75 of 89 Old 10-18-2020, 08:32 PM
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I'd probably do it but I'd be gentle. If you think of some of the rusty frame sections on the back of some YJ's, cutting all but the inner flange and driving around the block probably isn't going to do anything.

As for outboarding the shocks, the TJ guys do it much more than the YJ guys do. One thing I'd highly recommend is trying to flex out the rear and check the angle change of the shock as it goes through it's travel because the axle does move forward and backward as it cycles. Pick a point on the fender where you plan to mount the top of the shock and use that as reference. I didn't use the Ford shock towers for the rear but I outboarded my shocks and kind of got lucky that my towers had enough clearance for the angle I put them at. You have a smaller shock but you also have less wiggle room in the Ford towers.

I frenched my frame for coilovers even though I thought I didn't need to.... turned out I needed every bit and then some and I cut all the way to the inside wall of the frame. Again, I've got bigger tires and bigger shocks but you definitely don't want to cut those towers out after they're welded in. Once you get the shock towers welded in, you'll have plenty of strength from the 1/4" towers to make up for the rusty 1/8" frame you cut out. So don't be too scared cutting the frame.

I'm attaching what my towers look like for reference. Also attaching what my frame looked like after discovering rust so if you cut out the frame and then drive it, just know that it may not be much worse than this.
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IMG_20190720_091459.jpg   20171125_134435.jpg   20171125_134509.jpg  


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