Help with Vacuum Lines and Oil in Carb - JeepForum.com
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post #1 of 23 Old 12-18-2009, 10:18 AM Thread Starter
nforcer
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Help with Vacuum Lines and Oil in Carb

I posted something about this previously, but I am reposting with a bunch of pictures. The PO of my Jeep removed a ton of the vacuum/emmissions equipment. I am fairly mechanically inclined, but I am at a loss as to where to start. The problems I am having include: Oil in the carb (I think this may be a clogged PCV valve which I will be replacing later today), the Jeep stalls when the engine is cold and I apply hard brakes and inconsistent idle when cold (runs great some days and like crap others). I am planning on replacing the PCV valve, adding a fuel return line, replacing the Mr. Gasket FPR with a Holley one and removing the odd breather hose setup and putting in the small K&N in the valve cover. I retuned the carb which seemed to help some, but I need some help with what else I should fix. Thanks in advance and let me know if you need more specific pictures of anything.















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post #2 of 23 Old 12-18-2009, 11:00 AM
Peter Nuss
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Well, it's not total screwed up mess. The distributer vaccum advance line is in the right spot!

Remove the hose at the rear of the valve cover (top hose closest to the firewall) replace it with a crankcase breather. Lot of after market people make them. It'a simple push piece with a filter on it. That will allow fresh air into the crankcase. Then remove everything that is attached to that hose you just removed, all the brass fittings etc. Plug the nipple that will be open now in the air cleaner base.

But most of all remove the fuel line from the pump to where ever and however it gets to the carb. That is a potential fire right there. Buy some metal 5/16 tubing and bend it into shape to get to the carb. You are going to need to support it in a few spots. Also, get the stock fuel filter and hook up the fuel return line. You'll also need a fuel regulator, damn, I surprized that things even run right.

Then post some more pictures. Someone here will help you out with the rest.
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post #3 of 23 Old 12-18-2009, 11:05 AM
green89yj
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Your oil is lookin a little milky. bump and bookmark. I have the old carter carb and most of my stuff is hooked up like that.


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post #4 of 23 Old 12-18-2009, 11:24 AM Thread Starter
nforcer
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OK, so no rubber hose for the fuel line? Also, there is a fuel regulator but it is one of the Mr. Gaskets that I am going to be replacing. I traced the return line, and it looks like it is going directly into the carb???? So, I am going to remove that and run it into the new fuel filter. Anything else I should be looking at? Thanks again for the help.
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post #5 of 23 Old 12-18-2009, 11:45 AM
Peter Nuss
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The fuel return line should not be going to the carb. Find where the main fuel line is on the frame below the power steering pump. before it crosses over to the fuel pump. The 1/4 inch line next to it is the fuel return line. That metal line needs to be hooked up to the 1/4 nipple on the stock fuel filter. Originally there was a metal line running from the fuel filter to that return line on the frame. I'm sure it's long gone now. Put the fuel regulator in the fuel line after the fuel filter going to the carb. Send me a PM with your email address and I"ll send you a picture of how it should look. At least in my view, and on my jeep that works perfect.

I see that line going to the fuel blowl. I guess that a vent line of some sort. The vent line coming from the gas tank needs to be open. That line might be the fuel tank vent line. I guess that will work, if it's not causing you problems, leave it.

So, you should have three lines coming from your gas tank, main fuel line, fuel return line and the vent line

Last edited by Peter Nuss; 12-18-2009 at 12:00 PM.
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post #6 of 23 Old 12-18-2009, 01:06 PM Thread Starter
nforcer
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The two lines running to the front from the gas tank originate from the center. There is also another tube the stops in the back above the frame that come off of the side of the tank, I think that is the vent. Unless I am looking at it wrong, I am almost positive that line in the carb is the return. I replaced the pcv, what was shot. I am having a hard time tracking down (around my house) an air filter that will work in the valve cover. I may have to order one.
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post #7 of 23 Old 12-21-2009, 07:58 AM Thread Starter
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OK, here if the reworked lines to include the proper fuel filter WITH a return. I also removed the breather nonsense and replaced it with a K&N. I know I need to replace some of the rubber fuel lines, but this is my driver and it was freezing in my garage when I was working on it. I will replace those when I get a warm day. After replacing the PCV, I am still getting a little oil in the carb. However, I am sure it has something to do with the oil soaked filter (which I am going to replace today). I immediately noticed a hugh improvement in power from running the lines correctly. However, when the engine is cold I can still stall it out with hard braking and slow turns. Once the engine is at operating temp, it goes away. I am wondering if it has something to do with the missing vacuum parts. Any suggestions?


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post #8 of 23 Old 12-21-2009, 08:29 AM
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i havent read it all cuz i gotta go somewhere but if you havent.. i say nutter it and the vac lines have to go into that lil vac port that has like 5 open ports.. that is where the lines run from..

i say nutter and follow this diagram to the T. haha


Thomas
-1987 YJ

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post #9 of 23 Old 12-21-2009, 09:21 AM Thread Starter
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OK, I will run those lines. However, I do not have an EGR (the PO removed it and plated it off) or a charcoal canister. Should I look into replacing one or both of these?
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post #10 of 23 Old 12-21-2009, 09:24 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nforcer View Post
OK, I will run those lines. However, I do not have an EGR (the PO removed it and plated it off) or a charcoal canister. Should I look into replacing one or both of these?
EGR could be blocked off. mine is. i think you maybe should go to a pick and pull and find a canister. but i think some people dont even run it. so anyone have more info?

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-1987 YJ

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post #11 of 23 Old 12-21-2009, 11:09 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nforcer View Post
The two lines running to the front from the gas tank originate from the center. There is also another tube the stops in the back above the frame that come off of the side of the tank, I think that is the vent. Unless I am looking at it wrong, I am almost positive that line in the carb is the return. I replaced the pcv, what was shot. I am having a hard time tracking down (around my house) an air filter that will work in the valve cover. I may have to order one.
You can get those filters at most parts stores, just go to the performance section. I found one at advance pretty quickly.

First Jeep was an 1989 YJ, I've also had a Grand Cherokee. Currently, I have a 99 XJ.
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post #12 of 23 Old 12-21-2009, 11:11 AM
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I would definitely get a used canister. The egr sealed off will be fine, alot of people do that. I also have seen other folks use the return line for the fuel from the weber...that is what it's for, but me personally, I'd use the stock fuel filter and connect it there.

First Jeep was an 1989 YJ, I've also had a Grand Cherokee. Currently, I have a 99 XJ.
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post #13 of 23 Old 12-21-2009, 02:12 PM Thread Starter
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OK, I fixed fixed the vacuum lines per the above diagram (minus the ones to the canister and EGR). I will see when I go to work tonight if it is any better. Could this be timing issue? I am going to check that later this week. Also, the PO said that he did the nutter bypass but, unless he was VERY neat, I think he is full of it. I will also be doing that soon if it was not done previously. Anything else you can think of that I should check or redo? Thanks again for the help!!!
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post #14 of 23 Old 12-21-2009, 02:31 PM
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Definitely make sure you have all vacuum leaks fixed and everything not being used is capped or plugged. Once that is good, you absolutely need to check timing. Here is a real good explanation of the steps to follow with a weber.

Weber Tuning Guide

First Jeep was an 1989 YJ, I've also had a Grand Cherokee. Currently, I have a 99 XJ.
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post #15 of 23 Old 12-21-2009, 05:01 PM
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check the vac lines that go all the way down to the T-case and Axle disconnect mine undid themselves also check if those purple and orange wires are cut.

Thomas
-1987 YJ

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