Help, Ram 2500 master cylinder swap, hitting hood? - JeepForum.com
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post #1 of 14 Old 05-07-2021, 08:37 PM Thread Starter
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Help, Ram 2500 master cylinder swap, hitting hood?

So I know a million people have done this swap successfully, but mine is hitting the hood a good 2 inches before the front of hood closes.

Iíve seen people say they installed it on both the single and double diaphragm booster. My 91 came with the single diaphragm but I upgraded to the double years ago. Iím wondering if itís a difference in the booster mount bracket, because I canít remember if I swapped out the bracket or re used my 91 bracket.

So to anyone that has done the swab, did you have hood clearance issues and how did you fix it?

Using the nm3060 master from vatozone




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post #2 of 14 Old 05-08-2021, 03:51 AM
timatoe
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I have no experience with that master, but why that one? I ask because it seems like a lot of guys go the wrong way with the master getting a larger bore etc which makes the pedal feel better but doesn't increase braking pressure.

I was running the stock booster and master from a TJ and when I went full widths it wasn't sufficient for the giant dual piston calipers on the front. After much conversation with Blaine at Black Magic Brakes he ran the numbers etc and suggested running a master from a '97 Durango, it's apparently the same one they use in the Vanco Big Brake Kit. I'm running that now and the brakes are pretty fantastic with the dual piston calipers up front on the D44 and the disc conversion on the 14B on 37's. It also fits fine as it's outside deminsions are about the same as the stock TJ one. Anyhow the part number on that is Dorman M390408 or Napa M3517, I went through three Autozone ones and one from O'Reilly that all leaked before getting the Napa one that's been fine for 5+ years now. Just something to consider.
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post #3 of 14 Old 05-08-2021, 07:46 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by The_Goob View Post
So I know a million people have done this swap successfully, but mine is hitting the hood a good 2 inches before the front of hood closes.

I’ve seen people say they installed it on both the single and double diaphragm booster. My 91 came with the single diaphragm but I upgraded to the double years ago. I’m wondering if it’s a difference in the booster mount bracket, because I can’t remember if I swapped out the bracket or re used my 91 bracket.
I think part of the issue is the dual diaphragm booster. I’m sure you know the dual booster is wider so it pushes the MC forward a couple inches. I went with a 95 booster and MC, and I have maybe a 1/4” of clearance under hood. I’m not sure there is an easily solution besides swapping out the booster or MC... but I would love to hear a good suggestion, in the event that I need to upgrade my brake system to a similar setup.

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I went through three Autozone ones and one from O'Reilly that all leaked before getting the Napa one that's been fine for 5+ years.
I know that pain well! Took me at least 3 MCs before I got one that didn’t leak from the seals... now that it’s holding, I’m almost nervous to touch it LOL
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post #4 of 14 Old 05-08-2021, 09:39 AM
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Mine clears with the single diaphragm booster. I thought I had seen something where people flipped the booster mount to angle it down, but I'm not able to find that now. It may have been an xj thing.

If the bracket is square, maybe just a couple washers on the top 2 mounts for the booster (between the booster and the mount) to angle it down. It shouldn't take much to move the reservoir down enough to clear.


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post #5 of 14 Old 05-08-2021, 09:50 AM
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I also just double checked my pictures. Looks like the same reservoir you have.


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post #6 of 14 Old 05-08-2021, 08:21 PM
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I ran 3 washers behind the upper bolts on the firewall.


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post #7 of 14 Old 05-09-2021, 07:11 AM
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I used one for a 2500 van, was supposed to be lower. I'm cross country now but can double check in a couple days I have a tj booster and everything included the lines hooked right up without even changing the push rod ajustment

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post #8 of 14 Old 05-10-2021, 07:54 AM
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Mine clears the hood by maybe 1/8" with a single diaphragm booster. Like bgredjeep said, I saw on pirate someone flipped their bracket for more clearance. I might try adding some washers to the top as others have suggested here. But definitely interested to see what you come up with

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post #9 of 14 Old 05-12-2021, 10:13 AM
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Just got back home. Was in PA visiting my mom.

Here is a picture. There is the tinyest rub mark on the hood from the cap touching but it's a non issue
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post #10 of 14 Old 05-14-2021, 06:49 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks for all the help guys. I forgot to check back because I ended up flipping my brake booster upside down and that kind of gave me enough room to close the hood. Slight reroute of the vacuum hose and it seems good to go. Meanwhile Iíve got all new stainless hard lines on and Iím just getting the last few pieces together so I can bleed it and test it


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post #11 of 14 Old 05-14-2021, 06:54 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by timatoe View Post
I have no experience with that master, but why that one? I ask because it seems like a lot of guys go the wrong way with the master getting a larger bore etc which makes the pedal feel better but doesn't increase braking pressure.

I was running the stock booster and master from a TJ and when I went full widths it wasn't sufficient for the giant dual piston calipers on the front. After much conversation with Blaine at Black Magic Brakes he ran the numbers etc and suggested running a master from a '97 Durango, it's apparently the same one they use in the Vanco Big Brake Kit. I'm running that now and the brakes are pretty fantastic with the dual piston calipers up front on the D44 and the disc conversion on the 14B on 37's. It also fits fine as it's outside deminsions are about the same as the stock TJ one. Anyhow the part number on that is Dorman M390408 or Napa M3517, I went through three Autozone ones and one from O'Reilly that all leaked before getting the Napa one that's been fine for 5+ years now. Just something to consider.

Here is why I went with it. Before I put the bigger axles in, years ago I swapped to the 95 booster, I swap to a disc brake proportioning valve for the 8.8 and my friend did the same stuff, his brakes were like rocksolid and he can stop on a dime. and after I did all this I still had a squishy pedal and could not keep from rolling down obstacles. During all that I also upgraded to stainless brake hoses, ceramic brake pads, and I worked with Blaine and he told me how to set that little push rod in the booster. I went through three different master cylinders thinking I had one that wouldnít bleed out right, two boosters. I never could increase the brake power or get rid of the squishy pedal so I just lived with it for the last five years.

Now with the bigger axles and since I got a new stainless hard line kit I figured it was time to try something new and this was the popular opinion @timatoe


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post #12 of 14 Old 05-14-2021, 09:57 PM
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From experience and also from comments in this forum, ceramic pads last longer, but don't stop as well as cheaper pads.

Something to also consider if you find you're not stopping as well as you think you should be.
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post #13 of 14 Old 05-14-2021, 10:05 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 93YJ4FUN View Post
From experience and also from comments in this forum, ceramic pads last longer, but don't stop as well as cheaper pads.

Something to also consider if you find you're not stopping as well as you think you should be.
I went to them as a way to try and improve after the other stuff wasnt performing, and I found they actually worked better than the standard ones but it wasnt a cure all. that was on my dana 30, now I have a full width 44/60 and the pads are brand new but I have no idea what type they are. I havent driven the jeep since the axle swap


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post #14 of 14 Old 05-15-2021, 07:14 AM
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I prefer the metallic pads for crawling since they have a better grab at the cold brake temperatures that you generally have when crawling and they have a better feel since they don't compress as much. IMO crawling performance is semi-metallic > ceramic > organic. Price is usually cheapest to most expensive organic < semi-metallic < ceramic which is likely why the cheap/standard pads perform poorly since organic pads have a limited window in which they like to work. Now if you ask me what I prefer on my daily driver, tow vehicle, or a track car, my opinion will change wildly.


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