Help Choosing a 1" Body Lift Kit Please - JeepForum.com
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post #1 of 27 Old 05-23-2020, 08:28 PM Thread Starter
jtolch
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Help Choosing a 1" Body Lift Kit Please

I have a '92 YJ. All stock. Just replaced shocks (put on rancho 5000x) and steering stabilizer. It's going to be used 90% pavement and 10% dirt/forest service roads. No significant off roading/mudding/bouldering.

I just bought some pretty new 31 x 10.5 x 15 BFG tires on stock TJ wheels which I am looking forward to putting on.

While these tires will fit... it will be a little tight aesthetically... and may rub a bit. I don't want to deal with a whole suspension lift kit.... and just want to keep it simple with a 1" body lift...

Can you please recommend any specific body lift kits that might work well and be easy to install?

Any reason why I would not want to add a little body lift to my setup? Any difficulty with a body lift install on a YJ as old as a '92?

Are there any other adjustments that I will need to make (ie. hoses, motor mounts, etc) when doing a 1" body lift?

Thanks very much!

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post #2 of 27 Old 05-23-2020, 08:40 PM
bruinjeeper
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Prothane 1"

the kit comes with everything... you do not re-use any of your old junk.

Stop whining about the 'ride' - If your YJ ain't wrangling your soul free, then might I suggest you buy a stationwagon... at least you can fit all your bull**** in the back.
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post #3 of 27 Old 05-23-2020, 09:48 PM
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Originally Posted by shaggyjim View Post
How rusty is the Jeep? PSA sometimes rusty areas or places that see a lot of moisture will make a 1 inch body lift way harder than replacing a set if springs. Right Bruin?
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Stop whining about the 'ride' - If your YJ ain't wrangling your soul free, then might I suggest you buy a stationwagon... at least you can fit all your bull**** in the back.
~YJOTM MAY '16~
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post #4 of 27 Old 05-23-2020, 10:16 PM
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Before doing my lift, I got advise from Nick (anticanman) He e-helped my decide which to go with.
I remember he said he used the Daystar 1" kit.
I wanted the stock feel from the rubber. He recommended the MORE 1" spacers.

So...

We (me and Rich) did two body lifts on one Saturday, mine and his.

I used the MORE 1" aluminum spacers with the stock rubber body cushions. He used the 1" Polyurethane spacers.
The 1" poly spacers are a chunk of poly 2" thick.

We live in the desert so nothing is rusty or "frozen"

While mine was apart, I installed new original style Mopar rubber bushings to replace my old ones that were starting to crack with age.

When we were done, we both agreed the MORE ones felt better. There was zero change in feel from stock.
His had a mushiness, especially from side to side. Yes, we could both feel a sloppy side to side motion that was not there before and was not there on mine. Yep, we were being picky and may not have felt it if there was nothing to compare it to.
he said eventually he wanted to change his out to the MORE block style.
Years later we still haven't gotten around to it and I think he got used to the mushy feel.

"Alferd Packer: “Stand up, you voracious, man-eating son of a *****, stand up! There was seven democrats in Hinsdale County and you up and ate five of them."
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post #5 of 27 Old 05-24-2020, 06:50 AM
fishadventure
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I used the prothane which gains about 3/4”

I have no complaints and the kit was complete with bolts, etc. I did have to extract several broken bolts/nut plates.

No junk collects between frame and body now. Part of my Rust-89 lockdown response

[size=“3”]Shackles & D-rings are different things.
Cranking IS turning over
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post #6 of 27 Old 05-24-2020, 11:35 AM
NHfireLJ
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Daystar. nice kit. its 1.25" I've used it twice on 2 builds...

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post #7 of 27 Old 05-24-2020, 08:27 PM Thread Starter
jtolch
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Maybe a dumb question..... but with a 1" body lift..... are there any other adjustments I would need to make....such as to steering column, transfer case, stick shifts, brake lines, etc.. to adjust for the slightly higher body?
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post #8 of 27 Old 05-24-2020, 08:37 PM
bruinjeeper
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no.

might want to make sure you PB blast your steering shaft slip joint... since the steering column is attached to the tub, you'll need it to extend as you elevate the tub.

EDIT: also make sure your battery cables are long enough as the battery tray is body mounted,alternator, starter, engine are not.

Any shifter issues can be manipulated easily with a dremel and some small clearancing *if needed*. Your tcase shifter will be fine.

Stop whining about the 'ride' - If your YJ ain't wrangling your soul free, then might I suggest you buy a stationwagon... at least you can fit all your bull**** in the back.
~YJOTM MAY '16~
~YJOTM JULY '19~
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post #9 of 27 Old 05-24-2020, 09:02 PM
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Not unless things are "frozen" up.
The steering column under the hood "should" self adjust.

This is what the 1" MORE (Mountain Off Road Enterprises) looks like.

The top one is the aluminum spacer.

Everything depends on where your Jeep has lived life.
Salt and snow, oh no!
Desert? No prop Bob!
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post #10 of 27 Old 05-24-2020, 09:52 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bruinjeeper View Post

might want to make sure you PB blast your steering shaft slip joint... since the steering column is attached to the tub, you'll need it to extend as you elevate the tub.
OMG I forgot about that. Mine was seized and ended up pulling the shaft out where it slips into the bulkhead. A lot of cussing later, I determined that I needed a new shaft. I used hammers, MAP gas, and penetrating oil but couldn't make it budge.

IMO... I'd do a shackle lift before doing a body lift unless you are specifically trying to gain clearance for motor/tranny so you can run a flat skid plate. Neither are ideal but if you're just trying to gain 1 inch and aren't offroading much, who cares.


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post #11 of 27 Old 05-25-2020, 02:13 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Waternut View Post
OMG I forgot about that. Mine was seized and ended up pulling the shaft out where it slips into the bulkhead. A lot of cussing later, I determined that I needed a new shaft. I used hammers, MAP gas, and penetrating oil but couldn't make it budge.

IMO... I'd do a shackle lift before doing a body lift unless you are specifically trying to gain clearance for motor/tranny so you can run a flat skid plate. Neither are ideal but if you're just trying to gain 1 inch and aren't offroading much, who cares.
And mine took less than an hour.
It all depends where the Jeep is from.

"Alferd Packer: “Stand up, you voracious, man-eating son of a *****, stand up! There was seven democrats in Hinsdale County and you up and ate five of them."
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post #12 of 27 Old 05-25-2020, 02:52 AM
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I'd remove the steering shaft before you start lifting up the tub off of the frame. With it off, you can pull the shaft apart and grease the slip joint (wire wheel any of the rust off). You want the two to be able to easily slip in and out so that there isn't any excessive load on the steering shaft's mini U joints. Also, the rubber gas filler tube can cause some grief as well. I'm not saying to use a heat gun next to the gas tank, but once you pry the rubber hoses of the gas tank, heating them up will make them more pliable. Your fan shroud will also need to be lowered 1". And yes, lots of times a leaf spring lift takes WAY less time than installing a body lift!
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post #13 of 27 Old 05-25-2020, 05:18 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by whodatschrome View Post
I'd remove the steering shaft before you start lifting up the tub off of the frame. With it off, you can pull the shaft apart and grease the slip joint (wire wheel any of the rust off). You want the two to be able to easily slip in and out so that there isn't any excessive load on the steering shaft's mini U joints. Also, the rubber gas filler tube can cause some grief as well. I'm not saying to use a heat gun next to the gas tank, but once you pry the rubber hoses of the gas tank, heating them up will make them more pliable. Your fan shroud will also need to be lowered 1". And yes, lots of times a leaf spring lift takes WAY less time than installing a body lift!
I did none of that.
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"Alferd Packer: “Stand up, you voracious, man-eating son of a *****, stand up! There was seven democrats in Hinsdale County and you up and ate five of them."
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post #14 of 27 Old 05-25-2020, 06:43 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Chrisnvegas View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by whodatschrome View Post
I'd remove the steering shaft before you start lifting up the tub off of the frame. With it off, you can pull the shaft apart and grease the slip joint (wire wheel any of the rust off). You want the two to be able to easily slip in and out so that there isn't any excessive load on the steering shaft's mini U joints. Also, the rubber gas filler tube can cause some grief as well. I'm not saying to use a heat gun next to the gas tank, but once you pry the rubber hoses of the gas tank, heating them up will make them more pliable. Your fan shroud will also need to be lowered 1". And yes, lots of times a leaf spring lift takes WAY less time than installing a body lift!
I did none of that.
Same. Well.. i have en eFan.

good point on the fan shroud.

My gas filler neck and vent were left untouched.

Stop whining about the 'ride' - If your YJ ain't wrangling your soul free, then might I suggest you buy a stationwagon... at least you can fit all your bull**** in the back.
~YJOTM MAY '16~
~YJOTM JULY '19~
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post #15 of 27 Old 05-25-2020, 06:44 AM
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As mentioned no major mods... I have never removed steering shaft... May have to adjust fan shroud, every jeep is different... and may have to trim tub if you have a standard ...shifting into 2 and 4 th sometimes hits the tub...

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