Hei distributor wiring - JeepForum.com
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post #1 of 12 Old 06-06-2021, 09:30 PM Thread Starter
EmilianoL
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Hei distributor wiring

Hey guys I recently purchased a hei distributor from a team performance I was wondering where to wire up the tac to as I don’t know where the factory tac is and secondly do I hook up the battery wire to an ignition wire or something of that as I’d assume that if I hooked it up directly to the battery I’m not sure how I would turn the jeep off.

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post #2 of 12 Old 06-06-2021, 09:31 PM Thread Starter
EmilianoL
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I should’ve also noted that I have a 1990 yj with the 4.2 L
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post #3 of 12 Old 06-07-2021, 09:13 AM
Johndj32
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I have an 89 with a 4.2 and when I installed my HEI I used the tach wire that was on the old distributor.

I also used the ignition power wire from there to power a relay to supply a direct battery line to the HEI. I was told the factory power wire to the old distributor might not be big enough to supply enough power to run the HEI properly. I think you are correct that if you just use a direct battery line it will not turn off. I think it has to be powered only when the ignition is on.
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post #4 of 12 Old 06-07-2021, 09:23 AM
gutthans
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DO NOT wire DIRECTLY to the battery. Power MUST be INTERRUPTED and ABSENT with the ignition off. 12 ga. is the smallest I would go for a power source, and 10 ga. with a 12 ga fusible link would be a smart bet.
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post #5 of 12 Old 06-07-2021, 11:18 AM
cobra30689
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Remember the positive wire to the stock coil has a resistance wire, with a bypass on crank from the starter relay. You would have to get rid of that first before trying to use the factory feed wire. As said above, I would get a relay.....wire one side of the contacts to the battery and engage the relay coil with an ignition source from the Jeep. The green wire with the trace is the tach lead. You can also safely ditch the old Ford ignition module on the drivers side fender if you wish.
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post #6 of 12 Old 06-07-2021, 12:24 PM
Sty181
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Green with white on the coil is the tach wire. Seeing you don't need the Ford ignition module use it's power wire. It's the yellow wire going into the module. If you cut it close to the plug of the module it will reach the distributor. Hopefully you got the power and tach plug with the HEI. If so solder and heat shrink the wires together for a good connection.
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post #7 of 12 Old 06-07-2021, 04:17 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sty181 View Post
Seeing you don't need the Ford ignition module use it's power wire. It's the yellow wire going into the module.
Now that you say that, the yellow wire is the wire I used to power the relay.
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post #8 of 12 Old 06-08-2021, 09:34 AM
Sty181
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I just ran the yellow wire straight to the distributor. It's a full 12 volts. I did not see a need for a relay. I just see a relay as another thing that can fail.With a relay wired direct to your battery you would gain a half a volt or a little more power to the distributor but I don't think you would will be able to tell the difference . Both ways will work great.
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post #9 of 12 Old 06-08-2021, 11:47 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sty181 View Post
I just ran the yellow wire straight to the distributor. It's a full 12 volts. I did not see a need for a relay. I just see a relay as another thing that can fail.With a relay wired direct to your battery you would gain a half a volt or a little more power to the distributor but I don't think you would will be able to tell the difference . Both ways will work great.
To each their own......but I would rather have a relay fail than an ignition switch. GM's, Jeeps and Fords of this era did not have the most robust switches on the planet (I've seen all three overheat and fail).....and anything that can be done to remove some of that load from the switch is a smart move. There is a reason why the OEM's moved to discrete relays/power distribution blocks in later designs. Just my opinion *shrug*
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post #10 of 12 Old 06-08-2021, 11:53 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Johndj32 View Post
Now that you say that, the yellow wire is the wire I used to power the relay.
Likewise. In my case, I swapped in a 4.8 Vortec. Gutted and removed the old MCU harness, and used the yellow wire for the GM harness PCM/ignition relay coil.
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post #11 of 12 Old 06-09-2021, 01:21 AM
Sty181
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cobra30689 View Post
To each their own......but I would rather have a relay fail than an ignition switch. GM's, Jeeps and Fords of this era did not have the most robust switches on the planet (I've seen all three overheat and fail).....and anything that can be done to remove some of that load from the switch is a smart move. There is a reason why the OEM's moved to discrete relays/power distribution blocks in later designs. Just my opinion *shrug*


Its funny you said that because that's the same reason I put relays in my headlight circuit to reduce the load on the light switch
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post #12 of 12 Old 06-09-2021, 01:23 PM
timatoe
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I used the yellow stock wire to trigger a relay that feeds the full 12v from the battery.

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