Fuel line to rail disconnect - JeepForum.com
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post #1 of 17 Old 11-16-2018, 10:15 AM Thread Starter
mikewiz38
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Fuel line to rail disconnect

I'm attempting to hook the fuel lines back up and the old ones are rusted and can't get anything apart. The new frame had some better condition lines on it so I'm going to use those. The steel line has a little stop at the end of it.

I still have the rubber hoses that connect from the fuel rail to the steel supply line. But the part that is needing to be replaced is (probably) the quick disconnect from the rubber hose to the steel supply lines.

Do I want something like this?

https://www.amazon.com/Dorman-800-08.../dp/B000E35WHO

Will it clip onto the steel rail? Then do you use a plastic clip to hold the quick disconnect onto that little stop line thing at the end of the steel fuel line? The little stop thing at the end of the fuel line looks like the picture on the autozone site but yet I'd rather not have a push on "john gusset" type water connection. The quick disconnect gizmos look like they are a bit more secure.

http://repairguide.autozone.com/znet...52800a9cc4.gif

Thanks!


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post #2 of 17 Old 11-16-2018, 11:56 AM
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As long as they are the correct size (OEM style and size) they should work. They do just press on and go past the raised stop or lip on the steel line and hold. You can also get fuel injected rated rubber hose and clamps and go that route at either end of the steel lines.
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post #3 of 17 Old 11-17-2018, 05:16 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HAZCAT View Post
As long as they are the correct size (OEM style and size) they should work. They do just press on and go past the raised stop or lip on the steel line and hold. You can also get fuel injected rated rubber hose and clamps and go that route at either end of the steel lines.
Thanks! Like a lot of things so far that I'm learning to do, it's not that difficult...just I've never done this before so I appreciate the feedback!

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post #4 of 17 Old 11-17-2018, 07:43 AM
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I have a set of good condition OEM lines if you're interested. Make me an offer.
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post #5 of 17 Old 11-17-2018, 08:48 AM
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I wouldn't use plastic connectors. If your old ones are ruined I'd try to find some metal ones. Check RockAuto or something like that. Some auto parts stores carry them as well.

If it's just your hoses that are ruined, you can cut the crimp off of the quick connector and pull the hose off. Then you just put a new hose on with fuel injection clamps.

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post #6 of 17 Old 01-07-2019, 04:26 PM
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fuel quick disconnects

I tried to get replacement o-rings and teflon spacers from inside the fuel line connector. OEM part numbers are 8350 2745 for the 5/16" line and 8350 4447 for the 3/8" line repair kit. the OEM repair kits are obviously not available any more. Crown automotive make a repair kit with the same part numbers, the problem is they only have the plastic clip type...mine uses metal retainers.
I found a Dorman part#800-025 for replacement metal line retainers. Im hoping to use the new o-rings and teflon spacer and combine them with the Dorman metal retainer. Anyone got a better solution? Im nervous about eliminating the quick disconnect system in favor of rubber hose and clamp. Anyone swapped to a hose and clamp setup?
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post #7 of 17 Old 01-07-2019, 04:31 PM
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Yes, people do that, but you usually flare the line first. I kept my quick-disconnects but cut the old hose off and put new hose on the old QDs using hose clamps.

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post #8 of 17 Old 01-07-2019, 04:33 PM
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Don't overthink it, have used hose clamps and rubber hoses on plenty of vehicles with no issues. I like to use two clamps second one is redundant safety.
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post #9 of 17 Old 01-07-2019, 04:42 PM
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If you use any hose clamps go with the ones designed for fuel injection hoses. They have much better clamping force. They look like these. A lot of local parts stores carry them.

https://www.amazon.com/Fuel-Injectio.../dp/B0040CU0JA

If you cannot fix it with a hammer then it has to be an electrical problem.
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post #10 of 17 Old 01-07-2019, 05:01 PM
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I’ve had several people mention to me about flaring fuel lines when going to hoses from the factory nylon shrink lines.
I did attempt to flare mine, but the stainless steel just wouldn’t do it in my trusty OTC dbl flaring set. Lube them up a little so they slip in the hose a long way, dbl up the fuel injection hose clamps, and don’t worry be happy. That’s what I did and I’m still happy.

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post #11 of 17 Old 01-07-2019, 06:48 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fishadventure View Post
Iíve had several people mention to me about flaring fuel lines when going to hoses from the factory nylon shrink lines.
I did attempt to flare mine, but the stainless steel just wouldnít do it in my trusty OTC dbl flaring set. Lube them up a little so they slip in the hose a long way, dbl up the fuel injection hose clamps, and donít worry be happy. Thatís what I did and Iím still happy.
Sometimes a single flare is the answer. You are dealing with fuel. It can and does cause fire. It is under a reasonable amount of pressure these days. I agree that your solution has worked for many. Double clamps, etc. I do this for a living though and have to deal with complaints, lawsuits, legalities, etc. Some raised edge of some sort be it only a single flare or even a barbed connection is desirable. I lean to the side of overly cautious but have to do so to protect my family from BS.

There are fuel line repair kits available that are very comprehensive. I would not shy away from a connector because it is plastic. Many factory connectors are plastic.

Yes, I have used clamps on even my own vehicles, would never do so without some sort of a flare though.... Like I said, a single flare or bubble provides at least some resistance to a line just being able to blow off.

If you cannot fix it with a hammer then it has to be an electrical problem.
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post #12 of 17 Old 01-08-2019, 06:59 PM
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Thanks for the input guys. I’m going to order the Crown QD repair kit and try to replace the o-rings with the ones from the kit, then swap the plastic retainer with a Dorman metal clip. That should return the setup as close to factory as possible. If that fails, I’ll pick up a flaring kit, get some fuel injection clamps and rated hose and eliminate the quick disconnect altogether. Cheers!!
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post #13 of 17 Old 01-08-2019, 07:04 PM
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Here are those repair kits for the 5/16” and 3/8” lines...only come with the plastic connector.
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post #14 of 17 Old 01-08-2019, 08:19 PM
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I should pull an AvE and rig up my discarded nylon flex gas lines to a psi gauge.
And then take the ss hardlines off the old frame and clamp some fuel hose on with fi clamps and test that.

I have this gut feeling a double-clamped 300psi hose won’t blow off at 130 psi. Maybe the vinyl lines oem will take it, but those press-fit oring repair ends might not...

Either way i don’t think a YJ fuel pump will even get to 70psi ever.

[size=ď3Ē]Shackles & D-rings are different things.
Cranking IS turning over
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post #15 of 17 Old 02-28-2019, 04:43 PM
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Here are the results from the Dorman fuel line repair kits I purchased. I ended up replacing the vinyl hoses with fresh 5/16” lines. Heated them with a heat gun to bend them to shape and install the new Dorman quick disconnects. The pressure line has a 5/16” quick disconnect and the return is an odd 3/8” quick disconnect that steps down to a 5/16” line. The rubber lines were replaced with 5/16” fuel injection hose and fuel injection clamps. I replaced the metal quick disconnects with 5/16” Dorman metal units. I didn’t need to flare anything as the factory metal lines are flared already, and the Dorman metal parts are flared also. Very easy repair. I can provide all the part numbers from the Dorman catalogue if people are interested. This is for a 1992 wrangler 4.0l.
I’ll be posting my entire rebuild of the Jeep when it gets close to completion. It’s a full restoration.
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