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post #46 of 60 Old 10-09-2020, 07:05 AM
daddyjeep87
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Originally Posted by Waternut View Post
Updated my pricing totals at the beginning for the extra stuff I bought like shock mounting bolts, cross brace tubing, limiting straps, and spray paint. It's not a complete list of everything I bought but still under $1500. I can copy my Barnes4wd order if someone really wants it.

I'm not counting grinding/cut off wheels, plasma cutter consumables, or welding wire but still an incredibly cost effective way to change over to coilovers. I know my rear was more expensive and would be closer to $2500 with air bumps based on prices today but I also bought more expensive joints, shocks, and the air bumps as well. So around $4k for front and rear 4 link suspension with coilovers. It's certainly not cheap by any stretch of the imagination. Although for comparison, the GenRight kit with coilovers and a few extra goodies is usually around $9k, Rubicon Express makes a coilover kit for the JK which costs around $8700, and generic TJ long arm kits are usually $2k - $4k depending on the brand/quality. So compared to those, I'd call it a bargain but I'm biased. haha
I have around $3 grand in mine. No air bumps and Air shocks vs the coil overs.


87 YJ, 5.7/TH350/NP241/HP Dana44/9", Custom 4 link/ Radius Arms, ADS Nitrogen Shocks, 35" Cooper STT


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post #47 of 60 Old 10-09-2020, 07:41 AM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by daddyjeep87 View Post
I have around $3 grand in mine. No air bumps and Air shocks vs the coil overs.
Is that for front and rear with the F-150 radius arms you're looking to replace?

I know I was seriously considering that setup for a while when I was looking for a new front axle.


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post #48 of 60 Old 10-10-2020, 08:08 PM
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Mine has several dollars in it. I try not to think about things like that after the fact. It's done and it's awesome.

Well, "done" as jeeps go. I'm still planning on 2.5 coilovers in the rear, so another $1200ish for those.


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post #49 of 60 Old 10-10-2020, 08:49 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by bgredjeep View Post
Mine has several dollars in it. I try not to think about things like that after the fact. It's done and it's awesome.

Well, "done" as jeeps go. I'm still planning on 2.5 coilovers in the rear, so another $1200ish for those.
For me, being able to show people what they can accomplish with considerably less money than most imagine is part of what keeps me doing these mods. It also pains me seeing people who make significantly more money than me tell me they can't afford to replace their bald tires, fix their broken winch, or install a locker mostly because they aren't very savvy with their money.
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post #50 of 60 Old 10-11-2020, 06:57 AM
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I love to make things and work with my hands. My hat goes off to others that do the same. There is a sense of accomplishment is like a drug for some people. LOL.

I have a very good friend that is always making, fixing, or fabricating something also. His saying is why buy something for $7 when you can build it for $92?

If you cannot fix it with a hammer then it has to be an electrical problem.
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post #51 of 60 Old 10-12-2020, 06:36 AM
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For me, being able to show people what they can accomplish with considerably less money than most imagine is part of what keeps me doing these mods.
I hear that. Another huge cost saving tip i try to pass along is doing it right 1 time. Having owned my jeep over 20yrs now, it's been through at least 6 major "phases". I'd say 20% of what did before swapping to tons is a high estimate of anything remaining from all the other steps i took to get here. There's a reason I often suggest that people buy a well built rig vs building up from stock(ish) when they start talking big plans. Same reason I am not big on d44 swaps. Been there, done that, wrote that check, several times. Lol

The big thing i did get from the path I took was knowledge. I didn't grow up in a car family. Dad didn't have a hotrod that I helped work on. I'm in IT, so not a mechanic or fabricator by trade. 20yrs of tinkering with this jeep is all the training I've had and it's been a long, and overall expensive lesson.

I wouldn't trade it (or sell it as I found out last year) but I do try to point others to a less expensive path when I can. They never listen, but I try.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Boojo35 View Post
I love to make things and work with my hands. My hat goes off to others that do the same. There is a sense of accomplishment is like a drug for some people. LOL.

I have a very good friend that is always making, fixing, or fabricating something also. His saying is why buy something for $7 when you can build it for $92?
I agree on making it yourself, but I do weigh the cost vs availability. Building something I can't buy vs having it made was more my thing. Spending hours to produce something that exists and is reasonable to buy, not so much.

Unfortunately over the last several years my body has let me down and I'm just not able to do nearly as much as I used to. The good news is I've been pretty good with money, like Waternut mentioned, so I have been able to finish out my build far beyond my own capabilities.


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post #52 of 60 Old 10-12-2020, 07:18 AM Thread Starter
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I've never been one to subscribe to the "built it right the first time" or "buy once, cry once" mentality. I totally understand the rationale but unless you've done this exact thing before, you have absolutely no idea what you want nor do you know where you'll be happy. You're solely relying on what others want. Going from stock to 40's, tons, and coilovers is a big step and even if that was the cheapest way, I wouldn't want to do that unless I've wheeled that kind of thing before and know that's the lifestyle I wanted.

If you asked me 3 years ago when I bought this Jeep if I wanted coil overs and a V8 engine, the answer would be yes. Did I think I would ever get them or need them at that time; definitely not. Did I want an Ultra4 rig at the same time I bought my Jeep, of course! Do I think I need one even today; definitely not.
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post #53 of 60 Old 10-12-2020, 08:32 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bgredjeep View Post
I hear that. Another huge cost saving tip i try to pass along is doing it right 1 time. Having owned my jeep over 20yrs now, it's been through at least 6 major "phases". I'd say 20% of what did before swapping to tons is a high estimate of anything remaining from all the other steps i took to get here. There's a reason I often suggest that people buy a well built rig vs building up from stock(ish) when they start talking big plans. Same reason I am not big on d44 swaps. Been there, done that, wrote that check, several times. Lol

The big thing i did get from the path I took was knowledge. I didn't grow up in a car family. Dad didn't have a hotrod that I helped work on. I'm in IT, so not a mechanic or fabricator by trade. 20yrs of tinkering with this jeep is all the training I've had and it's been a long, and overall expensive lesson.

I wouldn't trade it (or sell it as I found out last year) but I do try to point others to a less expensive path when I can. They never listen, but I try.



I agree on making it yourself, but I do weigh the cost vs availability. Building something I can't buy vs having it made was more my thing. Spending hours to produce something that exists and is reasonable to buy, not so much.

Unfortunately over the last several years my body has let me down and I'm just not able to do nearly as much as I used to. The good news is I've been pretty good with money, like Waternut mentioned, so I have been able to finish out my build far beyond my own capabilities.
I couldn't agree more... on all points. I have been building my Jeep for 20+ years as well and am a little behind you at this point. I am still at the keep breaking dana 44 shafts stage and learning the shortcomings of radius arms. I own some tons and will be building them over the winter as well as gathering parts for the next stage of mine... bigger axles, bigger tires, big time gear reduction (doubler), better front suspension design, and more wheel base again.

My axles had the stretched radius arms when I bought them, so my estimated cost was just for the shocks up front and all the mounting stuff. The rear came with links as well, but I only used the tubing. I cut off all the bushings and got Ballisting joints.

Back to BgRedJeep's point, I bought all of my link mounts because the cost was reasonable and I would have had a ton of time wrapped up in building them.
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post #54 of 60 Old 10-12-2020, 02:28 PM Thread Starter
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Well I had a preliminary shakedown run today. Wasn't ideal with it being wet and apparently I was the only one at the park so even though I had another person with me, I backed off a lot of obstacles that I maybe could've made or maybe gotten in serious trouble on.

The tires touch the fenders and coils slightly at full bump. The coils look like they're hitting hard but they're just touching. Oddly enough...there is some casting mark on the brake calipers that appears to touch the coils as well during bump that I need to investigate. Maybe that's protecting the line though. Nothing broke but the brake lines are scary close to the tires and coils at bump so I'm probably going to try and relocate that so that everything is in front of the coils but that maybe be harder than it looks.
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post #55 of 60 Old 10-12-2020, 02:50 PM
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It looks like it is pretty well balanced. I see what you mean about the brake lines. Are you just going to run them behind the coils?

87 YJ, 5.7/TH350/NP241/HP Dana44/9", Custom 4 link/ Radius Arms, ADS Nitrogen Shocks, 35" Cooper STT


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post #56 of 60 Old 10-12-2020, 03:12 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by daddyjeep87 View Post
It looks like it is pretty well balanced. I see what you mean about the brake lines. Are you just going to run them behind the coils?
The pictures of the brake lines are looking aft so they're already behind the coils. I'm looking at the potential of moving everything in front of the coil.


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post #57 of 60 Old 10-13-2020, 05:39 AM
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Looks awesome. I switched to a single brake line to the front axle (run down the upper link and T'd to the ends) when we linked the front. You need a crazy long brake line to run it from the frame like that.

How's the frame to shock clearance on extension when you are flexed like that? Looks great on the compressed side. Also, double check the lower eye on the shock isn't getting maxed out and binding on the shock mount. Looks like a lot of angle in that 2nd to last pic.

Good work overall. Looks like a successful test run for sure.


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post #58 of 60 Old 10-13-2020, 09:14 AM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by bgredjeep View Post
Looks awesome. I switched to a single brake line to the front axle (run down the upper link and T'd to the ends) when we linked the front. You need a crazy long brake line to run it from the frame like that.

How's the frame to shock clearance on extension when you are flexed like that? Looks great on the compressed side. Also, double check the lower eye on the shock isn't getting maxed out and binding on the shock mount. Looks like a lot of angle in that 2nd to last pic.

Good work overall. Looks like a successful test run for sure.
Interesting thought on the brake lines running down the links. I'll look into something like that because it would certainly eliminate brake line binding issues but I'd probably still run two separate lines. I may not be communicating my initial plans very well but if anything, my brake lines would likely need to be shorter than what they are now since they'd be positioned closer to the caliper on the frame than where they currently are.

No rubbing on the frame at full droop. Despite my best efforts, the passenger shock got slightly gouged at bump but nothing at droop and all of the other locations look good. You can probably see where I rounded off the upper edges of the shock mount and even shaved down some washers. Since I noticed it on the front when building, I checked the rear shocks and they are all gouged. Nothing crazy but all worse than this so it's probably just a minor issue that self clearances after a ride or two but I'll keep an eye on it.
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post #59 of 60 Old 10-13-2020, 10:21 AM
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Down the links is the way to go. No need to run two lines.


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post #60 of 60 Old 10-13-2020, 05:02 PM Thread Starter
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Here is what I was planning for brake lines. I may give it a try first since it requires minimal changes and only one hard line on the drivers side.

#1 is where the stock brake lines were, #2 is where I put them when I stretched the front axle, and #3 is where I'm going to try and place them. This is between the coilover and the front bumper. Will probably hook up a light spring just to make sure it stays clear.
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