Fold Down Front Windshield - JeepForum.com
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post #1 of 16 Old 09-16-2021, 11:25 PM Thread Starter
SevenSlotAddict
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Fold Down Front Windshield

I am very interested in folding down my front windshield for slow speed cruising on trail rides and management area cruising. My YJ has bolts in the attachmen brackets and I was wondering if CJ knobs fit the threading for ease of dropping the windshield rather than having toi keep a Torx socket handy. Any down side of changing to a knob vs using the factory bolts? The spreader bars will be a PITA but not something stopping me from dropping the windshield. Suggestions for maybe trading these attachment bolts for ease of removal? It looks like I am going to have to keep a ratchet and Torx socket handy no matter what.


I appreciate any suggestions! TIA!!

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post #2 of 16 Old 09-17-2021, 04:03 AM
janesy86
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Change them out for whatever bolts you want. I changed most over to hex head on my rigs.

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post #3 of 16 Old 09-17-2021, 07:51 AM
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The spreader bars are there to help support the windshield but CJ's didn't even use them. If you plan to drop the windshield regularly, I'd ditch them and rely solely on the bottom bolts which can be whatever style of bolts you want.

One thing worth considering but may be outside what you want to do... I run a full roll cage or more specifically, I added a sport cage to the front of my stock family roll bar. By doing so, I'm able to completely eliminate the bottom bolts on the windshield and the spreader bars and attach the windshield at the top via the roll cage only. This means 2 bolts and the windshield goes down or as I often do in the summer months, one strap in the center and no bolts and the windshield goes down. If I'm just running the strap, the windshield goes down in 20-30 seconds. One last thing I did... In order to completely remove my windshield easier, I cut off the stock hinge pins and replaced them with long stainless bolts. So in order to remove the windshield entirely, I remove that upper strap, remove the two hinge bolts, and then disconnect the wiper motor. This takes maybe 2-3 minutes.
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post #4 of 16 Old 09-17-2021, 11:04 AM
Bboarder711
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I put my windshield down quite often during the summer. I have the factory bolts in place and because I have the spreader bars normally on I figured it would be fine to carry an additional torx socket since I have 6 other bolts to undo. I just throw these and the bolts into a zip lock bag and keep it with my recovery gear.



I couldn't justify the $50 or whatever to buy knobs.

- Rich

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post #5 of 16 Old 09-17-2021, 11:21 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bboarder711 View Post
I put my windshield down quite often during the summer. I have the factory bolts in place and because I have the spreader bars normally on I figured it would be fine to carry an additional torx socket since I have 6 other bolts to undo. I just throw these and the bolts into a zip lock bag and keep it with my recovery gear.



I couldn't justify the $50 or whatever to buy knobs.
As long as you have a system, that's all that matters. However, generic thumb screws or knobs would probably cost you less than $20 to replace every bolt.


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post #6 of 16 Old 09-17-2021, 04:27 PM
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I have been wanting to fold mine down because the afternoon glare makes it hard to see sometimes. But, it would limit seeing directly in front so I'm thinking to modify the hinges to pins and leave the whole glass back in camp.

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post #7 of 16 Old 09-17-2021, 05:25 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Waternut View Post
The spreader bars are there to help support the windshield but CJ's didn't even use them. If you plan to drop the windshield regularly, I'd ditch them and rely solely on the bottom bolts which can be whatever style of bolts you want.

One thing worth considering but may be outside what you want to do... I run a full roll cage or more specifically, I added a sport cage to the front of my stock family roll bar. By doing so, I'm able to completely eliminate the bottom bolts on the windshield and the spreader bars and attach the windshield at the top via the roll cage only. This means 2 bolts and the windshield goes down or as I often do in the summer months, one strap in the center and no bolts and the windshield goes down. If I'm just running the strap, the windshield goes down in 20-30 seconds. One last thing I did... In order to completely remove my windshield easier, I cut off the stock hinge pins and replaced them with long stainless bolts. So in order to remove the windshield entirely, I remove that upper strap, remove the two hinge bolts, and then disconnect the wiper motor. This takes maybe 2-3 minutes.
You have the Trail Gear front cage kit. Correct? That is my plan for the 94. I would love to drop the windshield and let the air blow my long blonde golden locks....... (the way I still see myself but those golden locks are really now gray and short stubble as in an acceptable military hair cut)

If you cannot fix it with a hammer then it has to be an electrical problem.
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post #8 of 16 Old 09-17-2021, 05:30 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Waternut View Post
The spreader bars are there to help support the windshield but CJ's didn't even use them. If you plan to drop the windshield regularly, I'd ditch them and rely solely on the bottom bolts which can be whatever style of bolts you want.

One thing worth considering but may be outside what you want to do... I run a full roll cage or more specifically, I added a sport cage to the front of my stock family roll bar. By doing so, I'm able to completely eliminate the bottom bolts on the windshield and the spreader bars and attach the windshield at the top via the roll cage only. This means 2 bolts and the windshield goes down or as I often do in the summer months, one strap in the center and no bolts and the windshield goes down. If I'm just running the strap, the windshield goes down in 20-30 seconds. One last thing I did... In order to completely remove my windshield easier, I cut off the stock hinge pins and replaced them with long stainless bolts. So in order to remove the windshield entirely, I remove that upper strap, remove the two hinge bolts, and then disconnect the wiper motor. This takes maybe 2-3 minutes.
You have the Trail Gear front cage kit. Correct? That is my plan for the 94. I would love to drop the windshield and let the air blow my long blonde golden locks....... (the way I still see myself but those golden locks are really now gray and short stubble as in an acceptable military hair cut)

If you cannot fix it with a hammer then it has to be an electrical problem.
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post #9 of 16 Old 09-17-2021, 05:44 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Boojo35 View Post
You have the Trail Gear front cage kit. Correct? That is my plan for the 94. I would love to drop the windshield and let the air blow my long blonde golden locks....... (the way I still see myself but those golden locks are really now gray and short stubble as in an acceptable military hair cut)
Yes that's correct. Originally I just ran a single 5/16" bolt on each side. Now I mostly run a strap across the center.

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post #10 of 16 Old 09-18-2021, 06:39 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Waternut View Post
The spreader bars are there to help support the windshield but CJ's didn't even use them. If you plan to drop the windshield regularly, I'd ditch them and rely solely on the bottom bolts which can be whatever style of bolts you want.

One thing worth considering but may be outside what you want to do... I run a full roll cage or more specifically, I added a sport cage to the front of my stock family roll bar. By doing so, I'm able to completely eliminate the bottom bolts on the windshield and the spreader bars and attach the windshield at the top via the roll cage only. This means 2 bolts and the windshield goes down or as I often do in the summer months, one strap in the center and no bolts and the windshield goes down. If I'm just running the strap, the windshield goes down in 20-30 seconds. One last thing I did... In order to completely remove my windshield easier, I cut off the stock hinge pins and replaced them with long stainless bolts. So in order to remove the windshield entirely, I remove that upper strap, remove the two hinge bolts, and then disconnect the wiper motor. This takes maybe 2-3 minutes.

The sport cage is an option I will explore at some point. The spreader bars are useless except in holding the windshield up and providing an entry hand hold for my altitudinally challenged, fat hunting partner. I will have to get a step bar or hoop for him or leave him at camp if I dont install the sport bar pretty quick. I wont carry a stool around like I did for a handicapped neighbor. He needs to lose some weight, lol.


If I go with the sport cage ad knobs, I wont need to carry tools around with me. I like the strap idea as well. I dont mind toting a box full of tools in my Yukon but the Wrangler doesnt have enough room to carry much. I dont get really "Back Country" where I would have to fix my sh*t to make it home. I may have to walk to get cell coverage but thats the only tool I need. My C4 Vette had a 1/4" ratchet with a long star bit used for the removable top and I was constantly searching for it.


As long as CJ knobs fit the threads in the dash, I will go that route and probably remove the spreader bars. If removal causes any issues, I will have to hasten the sport bar installation. CJ's got along without them for years so I dont anticipate any issues. I am replacing my rusty windshield frame soon so all these mods will take place at that time. Hunting season is here and cooler weather with less bugs in the teeth is getting closer here in North FLA. Cant come fast enough, Ive sweated gallons this summer at work and dont do it when I am off. I dont know how FLA got settled without A/C. THose early folks were made from hardy stock, possibly with fewer sweat glands that I.
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post #11 of 16 Old 09-19-2021, 07:35 AM
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I added a really simple front bar setup. It uses the stock spreader bar bolts at the main hoop and bolts to the dash via a plate. Since this photo, I moved the rear view mirror to the roll bar so it works on the trail. The spreader bolt holes on the windshield hold bumpers that hit the bar with the windshield up. A bicycle toe-clip strap holds the windshield down or up, no tools or bolts to mess with, up or down in 20 seconds.
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post #12 of 16 Old 09-20-2021, 06:06 PM
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I picked a pair of plastic handle clamp knobs up at the hardware store to hold the windshield up. I leave the spreader bars off most of the time but sometimes put them on or sometimes run a strong strap like the footmans loop from the top of the windshield frame back to the center of the roll cage. But I usually have the windshield down.

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post #13 of 16 Old 09-23-2021, 08:10 AM
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I used to fold down my windshield alot, and probably will during the winter, I see you're in FL, too OP, lol. Saint Petersburg checking in!!!

During the summer I put the roll bars on and keep a Safari Top on it, mostly for rain and my little dude.
20210923_095556_1632405750285.jpg

But when winter and spring come, I take those roll bars off and just sport it topless, I just undo the top 2 bolts on the 3 bolt flange. I kept the Torx, because I'm lazy and don't care, just keep the right bit with extension and ratchet in my glove compartment on a magnet bar.
20210923_095612_1632405878596.jpg

This makes it dedicated, always there and I dont have to dig into my tool bag in the back. And I never can't find it, because it IS A TORX, lol. Don't use it at any other time.

I personally don't like the family bars, especially with the window down, too much crap in the rear, lol. Full cage might be different, but even then, too much vrap going on, but it is safer, and personal preference. Plus, I dont get crazy, WMA's have decent roads, no high places to climb, mostly swamp, and mostly its city driven. So tipping doesnt seem like something I have to worry about.
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post #14 of 16 Old 10-06-2021, 11:29 AM
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I am curious as to where you found this top. I like it, and obviously, the rear of a normal top is not supported by our roll bars. I like your setup but have not seen one of these before now.

Quote:
Originally Posted by gehlsurf View Post
I used to fold down my windshield alot, and probably will during the winter, I see you're in FL, too OP, lol. Saint Petersburg checking in!!!

During the summer I put the roll bars on and keep a Safari Top on it, mostly for rain and my little dude.
Attachment 4009385

But when winter and spring come, I take those roll bars off and just sport it topless, I just undo the top 2 bolts on the 3 bolt flange. I kept the Torx, because I'm lazy and don't care, just keep the right bit with extension and ratchet in my glove compartment on a magnet bar.
Attachment 4009387

This makes it dedicated, always there and I dont have to dig into my tool bag in the back. And I never can't find it, because it IS A TORX, lol. Don't use it at any other time.

I personally don't like the family bars, especially with the window down, too much crap in the rear, lol. Full cage might be different, but even then, too much vrap going on, but it is safer, and personal preference. Plus, I dont get crazy, WMA's have decent roads, no high places to climb, mostly swamp, and mostly its city driven. So tipping doesnt seem like something I have to worry about.

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post #15 of 16 Old 10-08-2021, 06:12 PM
gehlsurf
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jeepfreak82 View Post
I am curious as to where you found this top. I like it, and obviously, the rear of a normal top is not supported by our roll bars. I like your setup but have not seen one of these before now.

Quote:
Originally Posted by gehlsurf View Post
I used to fold down my windshield alot, and probably will during the winter, I see you're in FL, too OP, lol. Saint Petersburg checking in!!!

During the summer I put the roll bars on and keep a Safari Top on it, mostly for rain and my little dude.
Attachment 4009385

But when winter and spring come, I take those roll bars off and just sport it topless, I just undo the top 2 bolts on the 3 bolt flange. I kept the Torx, because I'm lazy and don't care, just keep the right bit with extension and ratchet in my glove compartment on a magnet bar.
Attachment 4009387

This makes it dedicated, always there and I dont have to dig into my tool bag in the back. And I never can't find it, because it IS A TORX, lol. Don't use it at any other time.

I personally don't like the family bars, especially with the window down, too much crap in the rear, lol. Full cage might be different, but even then, too much vrap going on, but it is safer, and personal preference. Plus, I dont get crazy, WMA's have decent roads, no high places to climb, mostly swamp, and mostly its city driven. So tipping doesnt seem like something I have to worry about.
Sorry, been busy at work.

It is a Rugged Ridge, and it was crazy hard to find, even a picture of it is hard, lol.

But I love it!

They almost keep it so you dont find them!! Lol, cause it makes no sense in terms of names and pics.

Here.... https://ruggedridge.com/p/rugged-rid...BoCGtMQAvD_BwE

The pic from EU says Safari, and shows the added "rear bow", but it's in the EU. On the American site, says Islander, it also shows a family bar setup, but notice in pics I circled where they clearly states it comes with a rear bow. It took me a while to figure this out, and I even called to confirm that it would fit my sport bar. If they updated the pic, bet they would sell alot more, lol.
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