"Flirtin' with Disaster" - JeepForum.com
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post #1 of 128 Old 03-09-2015, 10:43 AM Thread Starter
ThomasYJ
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"Flirtin' with Disaster"

Note: This started out as a SOA Ton swap and some cloaks/armor. It has spiralled into the misadventures of a full on tear down & rebuild/LS-NV4500 swap.

JF has been a huge resource for me in the past. It played a large roll in learning the intricacies of Jeeps. Guess I thought it would be a good idea to put up a build thread in the hopes it might help someone else out there. The purpose of this build is to create a tank, essentially. Not so much the M1 Abrams type but more a well-rounded performer (mud/rock/snow/camping/cruising) that will shrug off some beatings while providing the foundation for expansion down the road. How easily that comes to fruition remains to be seen, so stay tuned.

BACK STORY:

Bought my Jeep around SEP08 off CL from a fairly well off couple in TX who intended to use it as a "beach toy" but found it didn't have the space they wanted after loading it up with their stuff, so it sat in the garage. Bone stock except for some worn 31's and a front bumper put on by a PO.



Returned from one of my deployments and threw some money at it. Rubicon Express 4.5 HD, Adv. Adapters SYE, ProComp MX-6 shocks & 31x10.5 Pro Comp Xtreme Terrains. (I figured they were a good all around performer since it would mostly be seeing street use at the time. I was wrong, they're terrible. Everywhere.)






Then life happened: Installed the "wife-mod" in MAY '10, got out of the military the following September, and subsequently had that marriage fall apart. Go figure lol I removed the wife-mod towards the end of 2011. "Bye Felicia."

Long story short, a split Tcase, and a fragged D35 and I swapped in one from an '88. While it was a bolt in replacement, it was SIGNIFICANTLY heavier, and more stout than the factory. Anticanman helped me out on here. Stayed that way for a few years and performed well enough.



Fast forward to the day after New Year's 2013, I told civilian life to kick rocks and re-enlisted into a different branch. It sat in a storage unit all buttoned up for about two and half years while I was completing the training pipeline for my new career.

That's the gist of its past, now on to the present.


Mobility
-Outboard front springs and shocks
-SOA- RE 1.5 Springs EDIT (28MAR20): Swapped out RE springs for Waggy's F & R
-Crossover Steering (Chassis Unlimited)
-Repair/ Refurb axles and install
-Traction Bar (RuffStuff)
-Establish Drivelines
-TIRES: 37x13.5x17 Toyo MT
-WHEELS: 17x9 Steelies w/ 3.75" BS
-LOCKER: Front: Lock right / Rear: TrueTrac


Up-Armor and Recovery
-FRONT: Arched Tube Cloaks
-REAR: Poison Spyder
-SLIDERS: Poison Spyder
-BUMPER: Front / Rear: KD Fabworks
-WINCH: 9500lb w/ syn line
-OBA: A/C Compressor, ~2.5G tank and req'd fittings
-ACC: Taurus Fan, CB/PA, Gauges/Dash, 6x9 Driving Lights

Re-Power
-ENGINE: 5.3 LM7
--MODS: CompCam XR259HR, Cowl intake
-TRANS: NV4500



A '91 Ford KP D60 and a '96 Sterling 10.25 w/ discs are in various stages of dis-assembly in my garage. A lot of the reading I had done prior to starting this suggested that I should get the '79 due to the diff being more towards the center and the spring perches only being ~.5" wider per side than some of the other years. I spent some time looking for the '79 variant, but all the ones I found were way too expensive.
Something that was pointed out about the later model D60 was that by out-boarding the springs I could take advantage of the cast in perch and have the benefit of the diff being closer to the frame rail and not as close to the oil pan.

I found the Sterling first. Loaded it into my Explorer and lugged it home. Took me and 2 buddies to drag it out.



The 60
It had been sitting for a bit, definitely needs some cleaning... to say the least.






Axle comparison


Metal Cloaks showed up




Took me a while to figure how this mess came apart, but eventually I started making some progress. Got the 60 and Sterling broken down for the most part. Suffice it to say the 10.25's got some issues that need to be addressed.

Took this right before I pulled the shafts.. BEEFY


Now, onto my problem child. Evidently, this axle has been like the village bicycle. Remnants of different perches adorn this lovely chunk of metal. Also, one or more of its former owners appear to have gone full retard.

Problem 1: There are small holes burned through the tube. I know they go through because gear oil was seeping out of them.
Potential problem 2: Some idiot went ham with God knows what and appears to have dug pretty well into the tube.

Proposed Solution: I was told on here, I think, to just burn in the holes and gaps until its sealed up and then grind down the excess until its flush(-ish).
Can anyone Confirm or contradict that?




09MAR2015
After messing around trying to knock the lower king pins loose I got fed up and put the cut off wheel to the knuckles and just cut the F***ers off. Should have done that from the start. It took like 5-10 minutes, seriously. If anyone is ever taking the knuckles off and not going to re-use them, spare yourself some heartache and cut them off.

In other news: OBA pieces have been accumulating.
- A/C Compressor
- Air tank from Ebay
- 3/4-3/8 reducers
- Snazzy manifold from Pnuemadyne
- check valve
- Fogger
- Oil/water Filter
- Gauge
- 175 PSI Relief Valve
- ViAir 120 on/150 off Pressure switch. 1/8 NPT

Other Purchases:
Reid Knuckles: 702.40 w/ S+H
Blue Torch Lower KP: 217.37 w S+H
This Hi- Steer setup with Bronze Reid KP Bushings and a drop pitman arm: 695.97 w S+H
THIS outboard kit for the front springs & some shock tubes from Ruff Stuff.
So, it's on to new brake calipers front and rear.

Sorry for lack of pics, my phone kicked the bucket on friday.. had to add that to the list of purchases as well


The Toy:93 YJ
The DD:00 F250 7.3
Build:
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post #2 of 128 Old 03-09-2015, 11:38 AM
gotswap
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Sub'd, those are some nice bird $h!t welds. Just fill them in nice and hot and grind them smooth.
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post #3 of 128 Old 03-09-2015, 01:01 PM
AZdEvilYJ
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Looks like you've got a great project on your hands

'95 YJ 2.5L
March '19 YJ of the Month!

My Build Thread

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Do your best and caulk the rest
-Albert Einstein
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post #4 of 128 Old 03-09-2015, 06:47 PM
mickcollinsb16b
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Axles are beast. Tank sounds like a great description.

1989 YJ- Dad original owner given to me in 1997.
2001 XJ- Wifes and currently under construction
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post #5 of 128 Old 03-11-2015, 08:36 PM Thread Starter
ThomasYJ
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Chopped Knuckles:


U-Bolt Idea
Stock:




Flipped:


The theory, is that I'd stack a plate on top of the stock one for the nuts to clamp down on to.
EDIT: Decided to go the flipped route but won't be stacking the plate (what was I thinking )

Got the Pig wire wheeled fairly well, took a lot of the grime and surface rust right off. Some of was almost 1/4" in some spots!
Took the grind wheel to the Sterling to work on some of that disaster. I counted remnants of 4... FOUR different sets of perches that have been on this thing at one point or another. Shenanigans.

What's the best way to put a race back in? wood block and a hammer orr.....

The Toy:93 YJ
The DD:00 F250 7.3
Build:
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post #6 of 128 Old 03-18-2015, 07:38 AM
gotswap
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Go get a bearing/seal/race driver set from your local parts store!! I bent a spring this weekend being a fool in the dirt, really looking forward to seeing your results and how much lift is need so hurry up!!
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post #7 of 128 Old 03-18-2015, 08:30 AM
bgredjeep
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The larger race in my Chevy 60 hubs were too big for anything in the HF race driver set. We used a brass punch and a hammer to work it in.


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post #8 of 128 Old 03-18-2015, 09:16 AM Thread Starter
ThomasYJ
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There's a shop down the road from me that said they'd be able to press the inner C race in. Hubs and lower kingpins came in a couple days ago. Got 3 of my RE 1.5 springs delivered yesterday. Pack job was ****, one box was completely torn open. But I suppose that's what I get for ordering from amazon.
Got 98% of the brackets taken off the Sterling, just have to get the holes filled in.
Sold off the hard top, swapped on a flip top and traded my full doors for some halfs. I'll upload some pictures when I get home.

The Toy:93 YJ
The DD:00 F250 7.3
Build:
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post #9 of 128 Old 03-18-2015, 12:45 PM
AmmitOsiris
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Subd... Looking forward for this awesomeness

sent from my phone because I'm not turtley enough for the turtle club.
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post #10 of 128 Old 03-18-2015, 07:43 PM
Joe Dillard
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I run the same front axle.

If you intend on tying-in the hysteer arms to the Reid arms (via a 3/4" grade 8 bolt & sleeve), you may wish to reconsider the hysteer arms you mentioned earlier since they are not designed to be used in that fashion.

You may want to consider the Artec Ultimate arms instead. They can be machined to your specs as far as steering arm attachment location(s) etc.

I'm talking about these:



Partially installed - no tie-in bolt yet





Double sheer tie-in bolt & sleeve installed:




Doing it this way not only adds serious strength - it adds a means to tie-in hydro assist easier down the road.

There's a bunch of other stuff I addressed - but this should give you something to consider as far as steering is concerned.
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post #11 of 128 Old 03-25-2015, 02:37 PM Thread Starter
ThomasYJ
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Hey Joe,

Would you mind elaborating on that a bit more? The day you posted they showed up on my doorstep.

The Toy:93 YJ
The DD:00 F250 7.3
Build:
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post #12 of 128 Old 03-25-2015, 05:13 PM
Joe Dillard
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ThomasYJ View Post
Hey Joe,

Would you mind elaborating on that a bit more? The day you posted they showed up on my doorstep.
Nate (owner of Artec) will drill/machine the arms to your specs. Basically let him know what your goals are & he'll do his magic to the arms.

I drilled the "extra" hole in each arm so that I could attach a 3/4" grade 8 bolt & sleeve between the Artec arm & the stock Ford steering arm forged in the knuckle.

Since you'll be running Reid knuckles - you'll be able to go with 5 flat top bolts (I can only run 4 since I run stock knuckles). Plus with the Reid knuckle you can still add the tie-in arm 3/4" bolt if you wanted to. This adds serious strength & superior load spreading to the knuckles & also to the steering system since it spreads the load across the top of the knuckle & the forged steering arm.

Plus, like I mentioned earlier - if you go with either hydro assist steering or full hydro steering - its easier to attach the ram(s) to the knuckles with the "extra" bolt & sleeve being there & again, the load is spread better.

Here's a few pics of a hydro assist steering system we designed & installed in a friends Rockjock HPD60. Not exactly what I referring to but close. Take note of how the ram is tied-into the knuckles hysteer arm & Currie arm.

I built all the tie-in components from scratch (all brackets, steering links, mounts, sleeves, hydro lines, tracbar, swaybar mounts & links etc). This was no easy task figuring out the geometry from scratch.




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post #13 of 128 Old 03-25-2015, 05:25 PM
Joe Dillard
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Oh, almost forgot.....if you do decide to run the Artec Ultimate arms, they stick out towards the wheels further than a "standard" arm would. What this means is you would need to be a little more selective on wheel backspacing.


IIRC my Walker Evans beadlocks have ~5.5" BS and I have ~1/4" to spare between the wheels & hysteer arms.
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post #14 of 128 Old 03-25-2015, 05:37 PM
jason m
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http://rs150.pbsrc.com/albums/s89/42...r9.jpg~320x480
I just build them myself, but Joe's are real sexy to.

Jason.

1993 YJ 4.0 60 Front, Rear steer 60, bolth spooled, 5.38's, 700r/241 39.5 iroks and beating it like it owes me money.

And on the 8th day, God created the 14 bolt...


The happiest people don't have the best of everything, they make the best of everything.



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post #15 of 128 Old 03-29-2015, 10:39 AM
amp713
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Yup im in to watch this!!!


And thanks for what youve done....

I like my YJ how I like my whiskey, on the rocks with just a touch of color!


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