Electrical gremlins, curioser and curioser - JeepForum.com
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post #1 of 7 Old 07-27-2021, 04:26 PM Thread Starter
jay-h
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Electrical gremlins, curioser and curioser

I've noticed that gradually my dashboard volt meter was often reading 1.5-2 volts low especially when driving long distances with lights on, I checked the lighter and got similar results. However the actual voltage at the battery and in the engine compartment as a whole was healthy.

So it probably was bad connection, which may get worse as wiring heats up.

Anyhow after poking around (thinking possibly the ignition switch) I removed the large plug by the brake unit that engages the back of the fuse block.

to my surprise it was full of thick, sticky, gooey stuff. Kind of like pine sap. All over all the connections. Don't know what it can be...the outside of the connector is not at all sticky, just normal underhood dust, so I don't think it came from outside. I wound up spending about an hour or so just cleaning--mineral spirits, q-tips, wood chopsticks, scooping out the gunge. Finally cleaned with contact cleaner, applied anti-oxidizing paste, and put it back together. Much improved.

But what the hell was it? The plastic connector seemed undamaged. Was there a rubber gasket in there at one point? Doesn't really look like it. Wasn't grease, even old grease.

So, I have no clue what it was, or how it got there. Maybe ectoplasm... maybe there really is a ghost in the machine


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post #2 of 7 Old 07-27-2021, 06:49 PM
JeeperDon
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That gooey stuff is normal, old school corrosion preventative.

'93 YJ, '02 GM 4.3V6, SOA, dual ARB's, 8.8+D30(WarnHubs), 4.88s, 35" Patagonia M/Ts, AX15, NP231+4:1+SYE+2LO, York OBA.
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post #3 of 7 Old 07-28-2021, 05:38 AM Thread Starter
jay-h
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Originally Posted by JeeperDon View Post
That gooey stuff is normal, old school corrosion preventative.
Well in that case, I replaced it with new school preventative.

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post #4 of 7 Old 07-28-2021, 06:55 AM
fishadventure
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Fluidfilm? That’s what I’d use. Or, to begin with, I’d not have removed the jeep’s cosmoline 🙂

The voltage wonkiness in the cab is usually the gauge trace ‘wiring’ printed on that plastic, the main 60-pin connector has an issue somewhere, or the block-to-firewall 50A braided flat cable is no longer viable. Replace the motor/firewall cable with 8 or better 6ga, and make ceremoniously clean the dipstick ground point and connectors.
That is probably something you should do anyways and it might fix it

[size=3]Shackles & D-rings are different things.
Cranking IS turning over
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post #5 of 7 Old 07-29-2021, 12:18 PM
cobra30689
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Originally Posted by fishadventure View Post
....or the block-to-firewall 50A braided flat cable is no longer viable. Replace the motor/firewall cable with 8 or better 6ga, and make ceremoniously clean the dipstick ground point and connectors.
That is probably something you should do anyways and it might fix it
Thank you for that, as I didn't know what the current capacity was of that braid. When I swapped in my 4.8, I attached the ground strap, the 12AWG main ground wire from the Jeep harness, and one of the GM engine harness grounds to a bolt behind the block (those who know these engines well know which one I am referring to), but not before scuffing up the bolt, block pad, and all the lugs from the harnesses. Have a 105A alternator and converted to a GM side terminal battery. Bought a 5.7 Cadillac positive cable with 1 4AWG starter lead, 1 6AWG alternator charge wire, and 1 6AWG lead to the PDC/starter relay. 4AWG negative from block to battery, with a 10AWG pigtail tied to the firewall. Might just replace that braid with something larger, but as of now the charging system doesn't even flinch. We'll see when the stereo and whatnot goes in later lol
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post #6 of 7 Old 08-01-2021, 07:42 AM Thread Starter
jay-h
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fishadventure View Post
... Replace the motor/firewall cable with 8 or better 6ga, and make ceremoniously clean the dipstick ground point and connectors.
That is probably something you should do anyways and it might fix it
In my brain it had failed to register that on body-frame vehicles, chassis ground<>body ground. Ran a new ground cable, everything great now.

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post #7 of 7 Old 08-02-2021, 05:19 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jay-h View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by fishadventure View Post
... Replace the motor/firewall cable with 8 or better 6ga, and make ceremoniously clean the dipstick ground point and connectors.
That is probably something you should do anyways and it might fix it
In my brain it had failed to register that on body-frame vehicles, chassis ground<>body ground. Ran a new ground cable, everything great now.
That is awesome.
I love it when it’s simple &#x1f642;

Several years ago- still 2.5 then- I burned a recently rebuilt alternator and boiled the battery due to bad cables. Like 11pm on I-81. Limped to a parking lot near a parts store and slept in the heep. I bought a new everything including cables and battery at 7am.
Magic; all my gauges worked right after that. Other than temp and clock they never had before!
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[size=3]Shackles & D-rings are different things.
Cranking IS turning over
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