Drive shaft question - JeepForum.com
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post #1 of 24 Old 01-29-2020, 07:09 PM Thread Starter
Wookiedave
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Drive shaft question

So I swapped out my original rear end with a Ford 8.8 and the previous owner of the Ford had drilled 3 holes in the spring perch so he could adjust the position of the rear end. I had it set on the very front hole to see how that ran and it placed the axle too far back and I was hitting the skid plate on the fuel tank sometimes. I moved it forward to the center hole and now my drive shaft is way too long and there is no room for it to slide in. My question is this: How much travel should there be in the shaft? I am having it shortened and re-balanced and I am sure they will ask me how much I need removed so I wanted to have an idea from some folks here.

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post #2 of 24 Old 01-29-2020, 09:21 PM
Duck Doctor
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Have you considered using the middle hole on the spring perch has n conjunction with degree shins so you don’t have to shorten the driveshaft? Degree shims will correct the pinion angle. Also consider installing a motor mount lift to further improve the driveshaft angle.
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post #3 of 24 Old 01-29-2020, 10:19 PM
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I am in the center hole and have about 2" of spline showing on the driveshaft.

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post #4 of 24 Old 01-29-2020, 10:43 PM
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I think I am at a happy spot slip wise.
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post #5 of 24 Old 01-30-2020, 04:46 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Duck Doctor View Post
Have you considered using the middle hole on the spring perch has n conjunction with degree shins so you don’t have to shorten the driveshaft? Degree shims will correct the pinion angle. Also consider installing a motor mount lift to further improve the driveshaft angle.
I have it in the center hole in the pics on my first post, that's what made it so short. I am also going to put the shims back in, when I had it set using the front hole with the shims it rode nice and smooth, just hit the fuel tank skid plate too much. The other issue is the previous owner installed this crazy differential cover that is super heavy duty, I was thinking about switching that out to try and gain some more clearance with the tank.

Thanks for the replies, they are very helpful.
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post #6 of 24 Old 01-30-2020, 06:46 AM
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You could always try to clearance the gas tank skid. Don't need much. Here's how I did mine. starting at Post #57.
https://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f12/...66/index2.html
Some of the pics are still fookackta, thanks photobucket, but the gist is there.

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post #7 of 24 Old 01-30-2020, 11:07 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Feetwet View Post
You could always try to clearance the gas tank skid. Don't need much. Here's how I did mine. starting at Post #57.
https://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f12/...66/index2.html
Some of the pics are still fookackta, thanks photobucket, but the gist is there.
I remember reading your thread as I was getting ready to do the 8.8 swap so the skid plate modification has been in the back of my mind, I've just been stubborn on doing that. I may need a new sending unit soon so I was trying to wait until that happened to try and tackle the skid plate.
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post #8 of 24 Old 01-30-2020, 11:34 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Wookiedave View Post
I have it in the center hole in the pics on my first post, that's what made it so short. I am also going to put the shims back in, when I had it set using the front hole with the shims it rode nice and smooth, just hit the fuel tank skid plate too much. The other issue is the previous owner installed this crazy differential cover that is super heavy duty, I was thinking about switching that out to try and gain some more clearance with the tank.

Thanks for the replies, they are very helpful.
I have the ruff stuff cover which is about 1/2" thick. that and the gas tank skid argued for a few months but the cover finally won.

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post #9 of 24 Old 01-30-2020, 07:58 PM Thread Starter
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This is what I have it on it currently. It's pretty beefy. And yes, I realize that's a zip tie holding that brake line on, it's getting fixed next.
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post #10 of 24 Old 01-30-2020, 08:27 PM
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I have always just measured from the middle of the rear end U joint, and the middle of the transfer case U joint and gave that measurement to the drive shaft shop. They should know how much to shorten it.
https://4xshaft.com/blogs/jeep-drive...es/yj-wrangler
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post #11 of 24 Old 01-30-2020, 08:29 PM
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I'm at around 1.5" at rest. My thoughts were, when determining the length that the shaft, that the shaft would slip further on droop than full suspension compression.
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post #12 of 24 Old 01-30-2020, 08:56 PM Thread Starter
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The guy at the driveshaft shop recommended shortening is by 1.5”, we’ll see how if fits when I get it back tomorrow.
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post #13 of 24 Old 01-30-2020, 09:28 PM
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Wow, even with the axle moved back 1" I'd have been scared to drive that. A blown transfer case is just waiting to happen there.

Looks like a RuffStuff diff cover. It's good. I wouldn't get rid of it. Your tubes have been welded as well, which is a good thing.

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post #14 of 24 Old 01-31-2020, 07:34 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
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Looks like a RuffStuff diff cover. It's good. I wouldn't get rid of it. Your tubes have been welded as well, which is a good thing.
I got both my axles from a guy who works at a shop here around Atlanta. He was changing them out to put Rubicon axles under his YJ so I feel confident that he had the axles set up correctly.
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post #15 of 24 Old 02-01-2020, 05:52 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Wookiedave View Post
I remember reading your thread as I was getting ready to do the 8.8 swap so the skid plate modification has been in the back of my mind, I've just been stubborn on doing that. I may need a new sending unit soon so I was trying to wait until that happened to try and tackle the skid plate.

Thanks for that. Looks like you were successful.



Re the Skid/Diff battle, if you wait long enough, JBolty's solution will eventually work for you, too, if you don't grenade that TC first.

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