Dash Conversion Yj to Custom Dash - Page 15 - JeepForum.com
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post #211 of 247 Old 05-20-2020, 05:28 AM
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Originally Posted by fishadventure View Post
a 4.0/AX15 shifter winds up right on the hump. That will get you both the floor shifter and an ideal power supply
Staying automatic for the wife.

Yes, she does love driving the jeep. And after the lessons she taught me while I was attempting to teach her to drive manual in the 2003 TJ Sahara, well... auto is a must lol.

Also, if I am going through the trials of cutting and re-burning motor mounts to the frame. I am not stopping at the 4.0 (which is ample I agree considering 4.56 gearing). 5.3L minimum. Just cuz.

Wiring will be a bit more involved... but should only take a few extra days of labour and advil.

Dont have to worry about that until the 4 angry squirrels die (probably won't) or the rest of the jeep is completely done according to my plans and I have nothing left to do.

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Stop whining about the 'ride' - If your YJ ain't wrangling your soul free, then might I suggest you buy a stationwagon... at least you can fit all your bull**** in the back.
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~YJOTM JULY '19~
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post #212 of 247 Old 05-20-2020, 04:36 PM
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Nitsy stuff.... I put nice sized fender washers under the two mount bolts above the column. It better covers the slot holes Dan made, would be nice done in black in your case.

Side note: I actually just today put one of those two screws to use. I use 1" ball RAM Mounts all over, for my GoPro, and even my center rear view mirror is RAM Mounted to my fabbed cage front bar so I can use the mirror with the windshield down. I found that those two dash screws are 1/4-20, just like 1" RAM Mounts. Now my right dash screw has a RAM ball there all the time. I use it to mount a 9" tablet cradle so I can better use Backcountry Navigator to help me lead club mates when out in the desert.
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'93 YJ, '02 GM 4.3V6, SOA, dual ARB's, 8.8+D30(WarnHubs), 4.88s, 35" BFG KM2s, AX15, NP231+4:1+SYE+2LO, York OBA, Warn M8000.
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post #213 of 247 Old 05-21-2020, 05:03 AM
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Good idea Don.

Edit: @JeeperDon as I had a stall and no start issue yesterday, I changed up the wiring on the CEL on the side of the road.

I get absolutely nothing with the wiring reversed. Thing is my ground buss is simply grounded through a wire from one of my fuse panels and not the ground from the harness.

Did I just screw that up? Should I run the ground from my harness to the ground buss? I can run one or two (Pin 11, Pin 12) of those grounds that were on the harness directly to the bus bar there is another post on it.

One of the grounds from the harness was used directly to the speedometer ground. It was listed as optional in my speedhut manual. Speedo appears to be working correctly. Cannot say for certain it was the logic ground in the pin out i posted on page 2 (and again here).

Didn't i say i'm an idiot with wiring and display obvious atrocities in judgment?

What exactly do i do to get the brake, 4wd, and CEL working? Don pointed out it is triggered by grounding, with constant power source being sent to the light itself. From the pin out, Pin 11, 12 and 20 seem to control everything aside from the Speedo and tach. I currently do not have any ground going to the tach, just the signal line to it's only line. I THINK it's working properly.

It is going to be trial and error at this point as i have snipped at least one two of the grounds out and using no particular order, but if and when i figure it out, should i simply tie two of them together and connect them to the ground bus? Bringing the positive leads from the LED's for the Brake and 4wd light over to the ground buss as i already have for the CEL?
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Stop whining about the 'ride' - If your YJ ain't wrangling your soul free, then might I suggest you buy a stationwagon... at least you can fit all your bull**** in the back.
~YJOTM MAY '16~
~YJOTM JULY '19~
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post #214 of 247 Old 05-22-2020, 09:31 PM
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<img src="https://www.jeepforum.com/gallery/data/4/BUMP.gif" border="0" alt="" title="Bump" class="inlineimg" />


Perhaps an explanation of the differences between a logic ground and a power ground as it pertains here.

I can switch up or at least ensure I used the logic ground for the speedo. I mean, it appears like it is functioning when mapped with a gps... but there is perhaps some interference as on deceleration it seems it does stop at 20 kph momentarily before coming down to 0 at say a traffic light.

I assume then the power grounds are what is used for the CEL and brake lights to get current?

And as for the 4wd light... would it also be the power ground from the center instrument connector that enables that light to show up? I assume so, it's simply a light to indicate a function has been made. The logic ground from that connector probably assists the former gauges in receiving reduced interference.

Stop whining about the 'ride' - If your YJ ain't wrangling your soul free, then might I suggest you buy a stationwagon... at least you can fit all your bull**** in the back.
~YJOTM MAY '16~
~YJOTM JULY '19~
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post #215 of 247 Old 05-23-2020, 06:56 AM
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I have no clear idea what you are talking about. Are you maybe using the term ground to means buss(?), as I am unaware of a terms 'logic ground' and 'power ground'. 'Chassis ground' is common, as is 'power buss'.

For CEL, there is the red LED wire going to +12v from the ignition, and the black wire going to the ECM, nothing to chassis ground. The 4WD light also has red to +12v ign, and the black line effectively running down to the axle where it gets chassis ground when in 4WD. The brake light I believe is wired like the 4WD, red to +12 ign and black to the brake system. The brake system then puts the black line to chassis ground with either the parking brake pedal switch or the brake proportioning valve under the hood.

'93 YJ, '02 GM 4.3V6, SOA, dual ARB's, 8.8+D30(WarnHubs), 4.88s, 35" BFG KM2s, AX15, NP231+4:1+SYE+2LO, York OBA, Warn M8000.
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post #216 of 247 Old 05-23-2020, 08:08 AM
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Originally Posted by JeeperDon View Post
I have no clear idea what you are talking about. Are you maybe using the term ground to means buss(?), as I am unaware of a terms 'logic ground' and 'power ground'. 'Chassis ground' is common, as is 'power buss'.

For CEL, there is the red LED wire going to +12v from the ignition, and the black wire going to the ECM, nothing to chassis ground. The 4WD light also has red to +12v ign, and the black line effectively running down to the axle where it gets chassis ground when in 4WD. The brake light I believe is wired like the 4WD, red to +12 ign and black to the brake system. The brake system then puts the black line to chassis ground with either the parking brake pedal switch or the brake proportioning valve under the hood.
You and I both Don. Lol.

That clears it up. I knew I was under thinking things initially, they couldnt have been that easy. Then I skipped the middle and over thought it on install. Daisy chain the red leads from the LED to +12V IGN and run each respective LED negative for the CEL, Brake Light and 4WDL to their corresponding wire out of the pin connector.

Obviously resistor between the two CEL leads.



That shores it up. Thanks again.

Stop whining about the 'ride' - If your YJ ain't wrangling your soul free, then might I suggest you buy a stationwagon... at least you can fit all your bull**** in the back.
~YJOTM MAY '16~
~YJOTM JULY '19~
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post #217 of 247 Old 05-23-2020, 10:00 AM
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Ok. It's working perfectly now.

Just one more matter that needs to be shored up.

I changed out the coolant temperature sender to the speedhut provided one as the gauge wouldn't work without it.

So obviously, I now get a CEL code 22 (coolant temp sender out of range). And the CEL obviously stays on because the original plug is disconnected.

What should I do about this?

Stop whining about the 'ride' - If your YJ ain't wrangling your soul free, then might I suggest you buy a stationwagon... at least you can fit all your bull**** in the back.
~YJOTM MAY '16~
~YJOTM JULY '19~
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post #218 of 247 Old 05-23-2020, 10:36 AM
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My GM motor has two coolant senders on the motor, one for the ECM and another for the gauge. You may have to use ingenuity to run both senders, like modify the radiator thermostat cap hose fitting on the motor top to accommodate the new sender fitting.

'93 YJ, '02 GM 4.3V6, SOA, dual ARB's, 8.8+D30(WarnHubs), 4.88s, 35" BFG KM2s, AX15, NP231+4:1+SYE+2LO, York OBA, Warn M8000.
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post #219 of 247 Old 05-23-2020, 11:01 AM
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Originally Posted by JeeperDon View Post
My GM motor has two coolant senders on the motor, one for the ECM and another for the gauge. You may have to use ingenuity to run both senders, like modify the radiator thermostat cap hose fitting on the motor top to accommodate the new sender fitting. Another method would be cut the upper rad hose and insert a 3" metal tube with a fitting on the side.
Ok.

Would PVC melt? I mean, depending on any additives done in manufacturing, it should be around a 260 Celsius melting point.

Reason I ask is because it occurs to me in the past I have seen premade thermostat kits specifically for that purpose (upper rad hose).. unsure what those are made from. If I could do it with a few bucks instead of the very proud pricing they place those at... obviously a healthier wallet.

I suppose using a metal/brass piece with an appropriately sized threaded bung and some hose clamps would work.

Final shot. Brake light (white) works... I just have no issues with my brakes and do not have the parking brake on at the time of the shot.

Thanks again Don. Forgot to add in the resistor for the CEL before bundling it up, but I suppose as of right now it doesnt matter because until I get the thermostat issue cleared up, it is going to remain fully illuminated any how.
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20200523_124505_1590253135548.jpg  

Stop whining about the 'ride' - If your YJ ain't wrangling your soul free, then might I suggest you buy a stationwagon... at least you can fit all your bull**** in the back.
~YJOTM MAY '16~
~YJOTM JULY '19~
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post #220 of 247 Old 05-23-2020, 11:57 AM
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Ok. It's working perfectly now.

Just one more matter that needs to be shored up.

I changed out the coolant temperature sender to the speedhut provided one as the gauge wouldn't work without it.

So obviously, I now get a CEL code 22 (coolant temp sender out of range). And the CEL obviously stays on because the original plug is disconnected.

What should I do about this?
You may have to do what I did and add a second sensor for the gauge. On the 4.0 there are 2 sensors already. The one on the water neck is the one that the PCM reads. There is a second tiny one at the back of the motor by the CPS plug. That second smaller one is what feeds the factory gauge.

The issue I ran into is the new sender that came with my Dakota Digital cluster doesnít fit in this spot as the probe on it is too long for the threads to engage. I wound up getting a sensor adapter from Mishimoto that installs in the upper radiator hose and installed the new gauge sensor there instead. I donít know if the 4 banger has a second port in it anywhere or not.

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post #221 of 247 Old 05-23-2020, 11:59 AM
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So obviously, I now get a CEL code 22 (coolant temp sender out of range). And the CEL obviously stays on because the original plug is disconnected.

What should I do about this?
Did you disconnect or change the PCM's temp sensor?

There is a temp sensor on the thermostat housing that is wired to the PCM.

There is a separate temp sensor on the top left (from the driver's point of view) side of the engine block for the gauge.

They are on separate circuits - don't cross the streams.

The gauge sensor should be replaced by the one Speedhut supplies. Mine didn't look like it would fit there (nut on the sensor looked like it would interfere with the valve cover) so I put it on a T that I fit in the hose from the thermostat housing to the heater core.
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post #222 of 247 Old 05-23-2020, 12:18 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bruinjeeper View Post
So obviously, I now get a CEL code 22 (coolant temp sender out of range). And the CEL obviously stays on because the original plug is disconnected.

What should I do about this?
Did you disconnect or change the PCM's temp sensor?

There is a temp sensor on the thermostat housing that is wired to the PCM.

There is a separate temp sensor on the top left (from the driver's point of view) side of the engine block for the gauge.

They are on separate circuits - don't cross the streams.

The gauge sensor should be replaced by the one Speedhut supplies. Mine didn't look like it would fit there (nut on the sensor looked like it would interfere with the valve cover) so I put it on a T that I fit in the hose from the thermostat housing to the heater core.
Interesting idea with the temp sensor T fitting.

Right now I plugged the OEM temp harness back into the sensor and just ziptied it in a safe place above the intake manifold. That shut the CEL off as it completed the circuit to the computer. It also doesnt control anything if reading too cold as I have an eFan, and the thermostat operates and opens on its own once its temperature is reached. So there is no harm in doing this until I figure out a solution. You got me thinking with that T idea off the thermostat housing. This keeps them close in proximity and saves the trouble of re routing my speed hut sender and wiring harness.

I am not crossing streams. Are you referring to the IAT? That's compeltely different and no, it hasn't been touched.

Took it out for a spin on a beautiful day just now.... riding great. Idling beautifully.

Tomorrow I will get the transmission temp manifold/sender in and connected to the gauge and i will post some photos on that. Man, this has turned into a real good, sound thread on the matter. Great detail guys!

In the future, this one thread will cover everything required. Judging by the OP's 3 post count (which ended up being in this one thread) doubtful he has any clue what this became lol.

Stop whining about the 'ride' - If your YJ ain't wrangling your soul free, then might I suggest you buy a stationwagon... at least you can fit all your bull**** in the back.
~YJOTM MAY '16~
~YJOTM JULY '19~
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post #223 of 247 Old 05-23-2020, 12:38 PM
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Some Pics, because I'm in there right now, replacing a leaking thermostat gasket (and housing and thermostat for good measure).

To put the Speedhut sensor in the heater line, I used a 3/8 female brass T with a 3/8 nipple on either end for the hoses to clamp on to. If memory serves, that's a 1/8NPT to 3/8 bushing between the sensor and the T.
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post #224 of 247 Old 05-23-2020, 12:55 PM
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Right now I plugged the OEM temp harness back into the sensor and just ziptied it in a safe place above the intake manifold. That shut the CEL off as it completed the circuit to the computer. It also doesnt control anything if reading too cold as I have an eFan,
If I understand things correctly, it is how the PCM knows when the engine is warmed up and if there is an overheat. I've read of people running with no thermostat and then having problems with the PCM running the engine too rich because the engine took longer to warm up and the PCM sets the mix more rich until it detects that the coolant has warmed up.

Quote:
I am not crossing streams. Are you referring to the IAT? That's compeltely different and no, it hasn't been touched.
No, I'm talking about the two coolant temp sensors.

That dash is looking fantastic, BTW.

Last edited by YJbillmi; 05-23-2020 at 01:29 PM.
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post #225 of 247 Old 05-23-2020, 02:43 PM
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Right now I plugged the OEM temp harness back into the sensor and just ziptied it in a safe place above the intake manifold. That shut the CEL off as it completed the circuit to the computer. It also doesnt control anything if reading too cold as I have an eFan,
If I understand things correctly, it is how the PCM knows when the engine is warmed up and if there is an overheat. I've read of people running with no thermostat and then having problems with the PCM running the engine too rich because the engine took longer to warm up and the PCM sets the mix more rich until it detects that the coolant has warmed up.

Quote:
I am not crossing streams. Are you referring to the IAT? That's compeltely different and no, it hasn't been touched.
No, I'm talking about the two coolant temp sensors.

That dash is looking fantastic, BTW.
Thanks.

Ok. I see about the PCM thermostat.

So, seeing as how I've removed the stock gauge, could I not then just thread the speedhut sensor in the back of the block?

Stop whining about the 'ride' - If your YJ ain't wrangling your soul free, then might I suggest you buy a stationwagon... at least you can fit all your bull**** in the back.
~YJOTM MAY '16~
~YJOTM JULY '19~
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